Reasons for not flowering: why don’t chrysanthemums bloom in the garden? Why don't chrysanthemums bloom in the garden? Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom outside?

There is hardly a person who has not heard of chrysanthemum. She is quite popular. Like some representatives of garden flowers, such as roses, chrysanthemums can be grown both in the garden and at home, as a houseplant. In the form of a potted flower, it has many varieties. Chrysanthemum is fully adapted to life at home. This is exactly what I would like to talk about.

Buying chrysanthemums

Homemade chrysanthemum is quite small in size. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where its growth is stopped with the help of special preparations to give it a decorative appearance.

Some encountered the fact that when they bought a cutting and tried to grow a homemade chrysanthemum, they received a flower of overall dimensions comparable to a garden one. This is precisely due to ignorance of how to grow such an ornamental plant. Let's figure out how to choose a chrysanthemum when purchasing.

First of all, you need to carefully examine it, make sure that the plant is strong, dense, the leaves are well developed, and insects are not crawling along the trunk. Like any plant, a chrysanthemum, when brought home, should be quarantined for a couple of days. This will help her adapt to your home environment. Do not become infected from other plants and do not affect the development of your already established flowers.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care at home

Temperature

Chrysanthemum prefers cool temperatures and short sunny days. The ideal temperature for better preservation of the inflorescence is 15 degrees. Acceptable, but the maximum is 18 degrees.

If the temperature is higher, the leaves will often turn yellow, the buds will dry out, and the flowering period will quickly end. Plants that have recently been purchased and have not yet taken root are more susceptible to such negative consequences of rising temperatures.

Despite the fact that chrysanthemum needs a short daylight hours, about 8 hours, it is a light-loving plant. Therefore, you should not hide it in the shadows. But also protect it from direct sunlight.

Air humidity

Chrysanthemum loves moisture, so do not allow the soil, and therefore the root system, to dry out. Maintain constant moisture. Spray it from above occasionally. During flowering, it should be fertilized with special food for flowering plants.

Transfer

Like any other plant, chrysanthemums should be replanted according to the traditional scheme. If the flower is still young, then once a year, if mature, then every other year. In principle, there are no special preferences for the soil, the main thing is that it is acidic. You can use regular garden soil, but to make it softer and looser, add peat and humus to it.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemums are propagated in various ways. This can be cuttings, dividing a bush, or seeds. The simplest and most unpretentious are the first two. When planting, it is better to place three to five cuttings in one pot.

The easiest way to propagate a plant is by dividing the bush. This method can be started during the growing season. One bush after wintering produces about 6 young shoots. They are planted in pots with fertile soil and watered abundantly. The chrysanthemum will bloom in the year of planting.

Propagation by cuttings will take longer. Cuttings 10 cm long are suitable for this purpose. They are rooted in light soil. The cuttings are planted at a depth of 1.5 cm and covered with film or glass. You should not forget to ventilate them regularly, maintaining a constant temperature within 20 degrees. Approximately 5-6 rooted cuttings are planted in a pot. When they reach a size of 15 cm, they must be pinched to properly form the bush.

How to care for chrysanthemum after flowering

After the chrysanthemum blooms, it should be pruned and wintered at a low temperature of +2 to –3 degrees. Where can I find such a place? It's simple - a regular cellar may be suitable for this.

With the arrival of spring, when the chrysanthemum begins to sprout, it must be transplanted into fresh soil. If the flower is no longer young, then this is not a mandatory requirement, but a desirable one. When the plant is well developed, you can collect cuttings from it for subsequent propagation.

Trimming and pinching

In order for your chrysanthemum to be lush, it must be trimmed and pinched. This is done during the entire period of active growth. If you neglect this and prune only in the spring, then you will get a flower on an elongated stem, lack of splendor and an unattractive appearance.

If you want the plant to bloom longer, you need to remove the yellowed leaves and cut off the inflorescences that have already become obsolete. When it becomes very warm outside, it is recommended to take the chrysanthemum out into the fresh air.

In addition, you can plant a flower in garden soil and leave it there to grow until cold weather sets in, then transplant it back into a pot with a lump of the soil in which it grew. This is what flower growers do with. The same procedure has a beneficial effect on chrysanthemum.

If desired, you can transplant the garden chrysanthemum into a pot for the winter so that during the cold weather it will delight you with its flowering at home.

Chrysanthemums decorate our gardens with bright colors from July until late autumn, when most other plants have long finished flowering. Despite the rain, wind and cold, the mass of bright flowers with a cold, bitter aroma remains on the chrysanthemum bushes until late autumn.

Joe Lewis

The Latin name for chrysanthemum is hrysanthemum, which comes from the Greek. χρῡσανθής – “golden-colored”; explained by the yellow color of the inflorescences.

Chrysanthemum is a genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants of the Asteraceae, or Asteraceae, family, close to the genera Yarrow and Tansy, where many species of chrysanthemums often move.

• The shoots are bare or pubescent.
• The leaves are arranged in an alternate order, simple, entire, serrated, notched or dissected, varying in size and shape, pubescent or not, mostly light green.
• The flowers are small, collected in a basket, in some species large, consisting, as a rule, of central tubular yellow flowers and ligulate marginal flowers, variously colored and usually arranged in a single row; in many hybrid varieties they are arranged in multi-rows and form the so-called “double” inflorescence.
• The fruit is an achene.

jfh686

Garden chrysanthemums differ in the height and shape of the bush, flowering time, color, doubleness, size and type of inflorescences. Some garden chrysanthemums grow up to 1.5 m, while others reach only 35-40 cm. The color range of garden chrysanthemums is very extensive: white, greenish, pink, crimson, burgundy, yellow, red and copper colors are represented in chrysanthemums in the widest range.

Chrysanthemums originate from the Far East and have been known to man since ancient times. The Chinese were the first to cultivate these amazing plants in pots almost 3 thousand years ago. It is believed that arachnid varieties of chrysanthemums were the first to be domesticated, which were used in cooking and medicine, and later began to be grown for beauty. To this day, for the Chinese, chrysanthemums are not only a magical plant of ancient beliefs, but also a popular spice and a favorite decoration for rooms.

Along with Buddhism, the tradition of growing food came from China to Japan in the 6th century. large-flowered chrysanthemums in pots, the Japanese call them kotengiku, or ancient chrysanthemums. However, like many other things, growing chrysanthemums in Japan has acquired its own unique culture and sophisticated methods. The Japanese attach special importance to chrysanthemums of different colors and the rituals of their presentation. Ancient types of chrysanthemums are preserved in their original form; such plants are still grown in gardens at temples. Chrysanthemum is the favorite flower of the Japanese, a symbol of longevity, as well as an important part of their national culture and the emblem of the country.

Dave Crosby

Peculiarities

Lighting: The plant is light-loving; it needs shading from direct sunlight during the hottest hours.

Watering: Abundant - the soil should be moist at all times, but not too soggy.

Reproduction: usually by cuttings, seeds and dividing the bush.

Air humidity: Prefers occasional spraying. (More for hygienic reasons than for hydration.)

Transfer: Young plants are replanted annually, old ones after a couple of years. Mostly the plant is replanted in the spring. Chrysanthemums are not picky about soil and will grow well in ordinary garden soil, to which a little humus and sand have been added. The only condition is that chrysanthemums do not like acidic soils. To enhance branching, pinching and pruning are used.

Top dressing: spring-summer - once every 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers,
winter-autumn - without feeding.

Waqas Aleem

Planting and propagation of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are heat-loving, so it is important not to make a mistake with the planting location in the garden. To grow chrysanthemums, you need an elevated sunny place and well-permeable slightly acidic or neutral drained soil.

Lack of lighting for chrysanthemums leads to elongation of shoots, weakening of plants and a shift in the flowering period characteristic of this variety.

Chrysanthemums need sufficient nutrients for good growth and beautiful flowering, so chrysanthemums grow very well in rich soils. If the soil in your garden is infertile and dense, then before planting the cuttings it is advisable to add rotted manure, compost, and peat.

Before planting chrysanthemums, add complex fertilizer or rotted manure to the soil.
It is better to plant plants not in holes, but in a trench. The distance between planted cuttings is from 30 to 50 cm, it depends on the characteristics of the variety.

After planting chrysanthemum cuttings, spill the soil in the trench with Kornevin solution (1 g per liter of water). This drug promotes the formation of a powerful root system in cuttings. This means that the feeding area of ​​the young chrysanthemum will increase, and as a result a strong plant will develop.

Having planted chrysanthemum cuttings in the garden, you need to cover the seedlings with covering material. It creates a favorable microclimate: it protects young chrysanthemums from hot rays and warms them during cold spells.

Chrysanthemums are easily propagated by dividing the bush. In the spring, when the return frosts end, dig up the bush and divide the young shoots. We immediately plant the shoots with roots in the garden and water them.

Chrysanthemums can also be propagated by cuttings. In the spring, cut green shoots 10-15 cm long, treat the lower part with Kornevin, plant and cover with newspapers (newspapers retain moisture well). Then you need to water the chrysanthemum cuttings as the soil dries. Soon the cuttings take root.

Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Costel Slincu

Watering and feeding chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, so the plant must be watered abundantly before flowering. It is better to water chrysanthemums with soft water - rain or settled water (you can add 2-3 drops of ammonia to the water). With a lack of water, the stems of chrysanthemums become coarser, and the leaves and flowers look less attractive.

Chrysanthemum loves to “eat” organic matter and is responsive to mineral nutrition. To feed chrysanthemums, you can purchase various ready-made mineral fertilizers. At the beginning of growing young chrysanthemums, it is better to use nitrogen fertilizers to increase green mass, and then phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for better flowering.

Water chrysanthemums with fertilizer only at the roots; remember: mineral fertilizers that get on the leaves will cause burns.

Nitrogen affects the height of plants, the number of shoots, the intensity of color of leaves and inflorescences, and the size of the flower. A lack of nitrogen causes chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, and small, inconspicuous inflorescences form in the chrysanthemum. To increase the green mass of chrysanthemums, ammonia nitrogen can be used, and nitrates can be used at the stage of bud formation.

When the chrysanthemum forms a strong bush and reaches the budding phase, we switch to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Phosphorus promotes abundant and long-lasting flowering of chrysanthemums and improves their immunity. You can add phosphorus to the soil at the rate of 50 g per 1 m2 of area, as well as bone meal.

Potassium also has a positive effect on the health of chrysanthemums and the beauty of their inflorescences. The best potassium fertilizer for growing abundantly flowering chrysanthemums is potassium sulfate.

When developing young chrysanthemums, it is especially important to provide them with adequate nutrition in the first 6-8 weeks, when the vegetative mass is actively growing. At this time, feed chrysanthemums with fertilizers with the formula N: P: K - 2:1:1, using ready-made complex fertilizers with microelements.

It is very good to use mullein, only burnt, for feeding chrysanthemums; you can also use chicken droppings. But remember the rule: it is better not to feed the plant than to burn it.

Place 2 buckets of mullein or 1 bucket of chicken manure in a large barrel, fill everything with water, stir and leave for three days - the valuable concentrated fertilizer is ready. To feed plants, you can make a solution: take one liter of the resulting concentrated infusion and add ten liters of water to it. Fertilize chrysanthemums in the garden with this diluted infusion, adding one liter of solution to each plant. Fertilizer watering of chrysanthemums should be done only at the roots and, which is also important, on moist soil.

Guilhem Vellut

Forcing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums lend themselves well to forcing (forcing is a technique by which a plant comes out of dormancy, begins to grow and blooms at an unusual time).

Chrysanthemum is a short-day crop, meaning the formation of flowers in this plant depends on the length of the photoperiod.

Experts have found that the formation of flower buds in a chrysanthemum inflorescence occurs in two stages. First, when the day length is no more than 14.5 hours, a receptacle is formed. The longer this period, the larger it becomes, and the larger the diameter of the inflorescence of the basket. Then the chrysanthemum begins to form flowers. This process occurs most intensively when the day length is less than 13.5 hours.

Sufficiently high-quality cuttings of chrysanthemums can be obtained if you immediately set the day length for plants to 10 hours. Different varieties of chrysanthemums have different reactions to the duration of lighting, which is why they bloom differently: after 6-15 weeks from the beginning of the short day.

Chrysanthemum varieties from the Branched group are especially suitable for forcing.

Most cut chrysanthemums after planting require 2-4 weeks of growth with long days (more than 14.5 hours) to develop the required number of leaves and internodes. Then, for 6-12 weeks, chrysanthemum growth occurs with short days (less than 13 hours).

If you follow these conditions for keeping the plant, the chrysanthemum will bloom by any desired date - on your birthday, on New Year's, by March 8, by September 1!

Rosewoman

Reproduction

For planting, chrysanthemum seedlings, chrysanthemum seeds and cuttings are used, depending on the variety. Sowing of chrysanthemums, which reproduce by seeds, is carried out in May directly into the ground in holes of 3-4 pieces at a distance of 25 cm. In this case, flowering will occur in early August. For earlier flowering, the seeds should be sown in March in a heated room, when the seedlings grow up, they are planted in pots and planted in the ground at the end of May. In this case, flowering occurs at the end of June.

To obtain cuttings in the fall after chrysanthemums bloom, the best specimens can be left for the winter as mother plants. Faded shoots are cut off close to the ground in the pot, as they die after flowering. Mother plants are used for cuttings. Trimmed chrysanthemums can be left in pots in cool rooms. It is necessary to water little, so that the plants do not wither. Cuttings for planting are taken in March only from the apical shoots emerging from the ground from the roots. You should not take cuttings from shoots on old stems.

Cuttings are carried out in bowls or boxes. Humus and peat are poured on the bottom, and a 2-3 cm layer of sand on top. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife to get a smooth cut, which is best done under the leaf node. In this case, rooting goes better.

Chrysanthemums are planted shallowly in the sand, the cuttings are sprayed and covered with a glass cap. The best temperature for rooting is 13-15 degrees. After rooting (after 18-20 days), the glass is removed, young plants are planted in small pots and placed in a cool, well-ventilated room.

But most often, after flowering, the plants are thrown away, since now a wide variety of chrysanthemum seedlings are on sale almost all year round. When purchasing seedlings, you need to pay attention not only to the fact that the plant is healthy, but also to the number of buds, in which the tips of the unopened flowers of the baskets should be visible. If a plant is purchased with green buds, the flowers from these buds may not open.

Ching

Diseases and pests

Diseases of chrysanthemums are mainly associated with care errors: insufficient watering or too high an air temperature in which the plant is kept. Of the pests, chrysanthemums are affected by aphids and spider mites. To kill aphids, wash the plant with soapy water. Treatment must be repeated every 7-10 days.

Treatment of plants with pyrethrum gives good results. The solution is prepared as follows: 200 gr. Pyrethrum powder is infused in 10 liters of water for 12 hours, then 50 ml is taken. infusion, dilute in 10 liters of water and add 50 grams. soap

Garlic water extract is very effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites and other pests. Take 50 gr. Crush the garlic in a mortar and add a glass of cold water. After 15-20 minutes, strain the mixture and dilute with water, bringing the volume to 1 liter. You need to take 1.5 cups of this solution per bucket of water and wash the plants in the evening or in cloudy weather. You can treat the plant with an insecticide.

Alejandro Bayer Tamayo

Chrysanthemum is a symbol of longevity, happiness and prosperity. Spray chrysanthemums are similar to daisies, so they remind us of summer and the sun. We are waiting for your advice!

In order for chrysanthemums to delight with lush flowering for a long time, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil, plant on time, feed and water at the right time, and do not forget about the formation of the bush and shelter for the winter. And if desired, you can prolong the flowering by transplanting chrysanthemums into pots and decorating the window sill in a city apartment with them.

WE'RE PREPARING A PLACE OF RESIDENCE

As we have already mentioned, chrysanthemums prefer a sunny place protected from the wind. Good predecessors are perennial herbs, legumes and ornamental plants that have an annual development cycle, preferably not from the Asteraceae family. Chrysanthemums can be returned to their old place no earlier than after 2 years. You should also avoid planting in areas where potatoes and midoras grew the previous year.

Places for chrysanthemums have been prepared since autumn. First, they dig to a depth of 20-30 cm. Then, if the soil pH is below 6.5, lime with chalk, preferably powdered (400-500 g per 1 m 2). In the fall, superphosphate (40-50 g per 1 m2) and potassium salt (20-30 g per 1 m2) are also added.

In the spring, as soon as the soil dries out slightly, the area is again dug up and harrowed, and just before planting it is treated with a universal cutter. Spring digging is carried out to a shallower depth than in autumn, so as not to turn weed seeds to the surface. Before planting, add humus: 1-2 buckets per 1 m2.

Chrysanthemums are planted on a hill, that is, in flower beds, ridges, beds 20-30 cm high and at least 1 m wide. The distance between plants depends on the size of the bushes and the number of stems in adulthood. For spreading and branching medium-sized plants, the planting pattern can be 40x50, for low-growing border plants - 30x40 cm. The preparation of the planting site is completed 2-4 days before planting the seedlings.

WE BUY PLANTING MATERIAL

Chrysanthemums are purchased in the form of seedlings or rooted cuttings, which are then grown independently. Cuttings should be purchased in April, and seedlings at the end of May. When choosing a variety, keep in mind that for the middle zone, chrysanthemums that bloom early (July-August) or mid-flowering (September-October) and are not too tall (up to 1.2 m) are preferable.

You should buy planting material not in markets, but in botanical gardens, gardening companies, and specialized floriculture farms.

Before purchasing plants, ask the seller for their full characteristics: name of the variety, adult size, strength of the stems, winter hardiness, growing characteristics.

Refuse to purchase if you find out that the plants you chose were grown in the south or grew year-round in a greenhouse. Remember, the beautiful appearance of planting material is not a guarantee of its viability in the future. Be especially careful with imported chrysanthemums. As a rule, they are sold treated with inhibitors (growth inhibitors) or growth agents. As a result, from a giant plant you will get a dwarf or vice versa.

WE PLANT ACCORDING TO THE RULES

Chrysanthemums are planted when the danger of spring frosts has passed and the soil has warmed up to a level of 12-14 ° C at a depth of 15-20 cm. In the Moscow region this happens in early June, in the south - at the end of May. Cool and cloudy days are chosen for planting. In hot and windy weather, planting material takes root much worse.

For better lighting of plants, planting is done in a checkerboard pattern. First, holes are made that exceed the size of the root system along with the soil ball, but not deeper than 35 cm. Drainage made of expanded clay and sand is placed at the bottom, covered with humus or limed peat, filled with fertilizer (50 g of chalk and 10 g of Kemira-universal per bucket ). After this, the soil in the hole is moistened, and in hot sunny weather it is filled with water.

3-5 hours before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly to better preserve the earthen coma. Then the plants are knocked out of pots or cups and placed in the prepared hole so that the base of the stem is at the same soil level as in the container for seedlings. In this case, the root collar should not be buried more than 2 cm.

After planting, the soil around the bush is slightly compacted, a hole is made and watered. If the height of the stems of the seedlings is 30 cm or higher, they are tied to stakes. It is better to make them from branches of coniferous trees, removing the bark. The stakes are installed on the side of the prevailing wind direction at a distance of 5-8 cm from the stem and driven into the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm. They are tied with twine or sponge: they do not slip on the wood.

To better retain moisture, plantings are mulched with peat humus with sand or leaf soil, or pine needles.

Before planting, do not forget to place signs with the names of the varieties near the holes. They can be metal, oil painted, woodenor plastic.

FORMING BUSHES

Most varieties of Korean chrysanthemums grown in open ground are small- and medium-flowered. Their formation mainly consists of pinching shoots that violate the given or naturally formed shape of the bush, and removing buds that appear in spring and early summer.

To get well-branching bushes, small-flowered varieties are pinched 1 or 2 times. Moreover, they do this with an interval of at least 30 days. The number of pinches depends on the degree of branching of the bush. If after the first 7-12 shoots are formed, the second is not carried out.

Pinching is the removal of the upper part of the shoot. It is carried out during the active growth of the bush, before the formation of buds. Medium-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched when the central shoot reaches a height of 10-12 cm and a bush of 3-5 shoots is formed. With small-flowered ones proceed as follows. When grown with one pinching, the tip of the central shoot is removed above the 8-10th leaf. With two pinchings, the first time is to remove the top of the central shoot (above the 6-8th leaf), and the second time - the tops of the lateral shoots (above the 3-5th leaf).

Otherwise, large-flowered cut varieties (more than 10 cm in diameter) are formed. They are pinched or cut when the stem length is 10-15 cm and 6-8 leaves are formed, leaving 4-6. Do this once or twice. The second pinching is carried out over the 2-3rd leaf, when the side shoot is 10-12 cm. But this must be done no later than June.

In addition to pinching, shoots developing from the axils of the leaves are removed from large-flowered chrysanthemums, that is, they are pinched. At the same time as the shoots, the side buds are also plucked out. They do this every day starting in mid-July, and once every 3 days in August and September. Stepchildren should be removed when they can be easily plucked out with your fingers without touching the stem and leaves.

Pinching buds is the same technique usually used for large-flowered chrysanthemums. It consists of choosing the best inflorescence. But in order to decide which bud to bet on, you need to know how their development is progressing.

The first bud, zero or spring, appears in May - early June. But its development is suppressed by the second-order shoot that follows it, on which a bud develops, called the first crown bud. However, it may not develop due to the growth of a third-order shoot, at the end of which a bud also develops - already the second crown, and then the third crown appears.

Observations over many years have established that the best quality flowers are formed from the first or second crown bud. Therefore, one of them is left and the other is removed. They also get rid of the spring and third crown buds.

In medium- and small-flowered varieties, buds can also be pinched. On these chrysanthemums, the best inflorescences form the second crown buds after pinching them twice. The size of the flowers can be further increased if you leave 3-5 flower-bearing shoots on the bush and one inflorescence on each.

Pinchingchrysanthemumschrysanthemums

WE CARE AND PROTECT

Caring for chrysanthemums includes the following work: periodic weeding and loosening (once every 8-10 days), watering at the roots, applying fertilizers, if necessary, tying fast-growing stems to stakes, collecting and removing old leaves, especially in the lower part of the bush , pruning shoots (before flowering), mulching the soil surface with peat, straw or chopped bark.

WATERING

Chrysanthemums are watered only at the root; the leaves are not sprayed with water. In the first half of summer, when shoots grow and buds set, in hot sunny weather the plants are watered as the soil dries, on average 2-3 times a week. Watering can be alternated with loosening, which replaces it. During budding, water less frequently - about 1-2 times a week - and very rarely during flowering. In dry autumn, flowering chrysanthemums again need watering, since renewal buds are formed at this time. Therefore, in September they are watered 3 times a month, and abundantly.

FEEDING

12 days after planting, chrysanthemums are fed with nitrogen fertilizer - ammonium nitrate (25-30 g/m2) or organic matter (bird droppings or mullein, fermented and diluted 20 times). In the second half of summer, when buds appear, fertilizing should be phosphorus-potassium, at the rate of 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2.

Dry fertilizing is carried out during rain or along with watering. But it is better to apply fertilizers in the form of solutions. To do this, the above doses are dissolved in 10 liters of water and at least 0.5 liter is poured onto each bush. They feed carefully so that fertilizers do not fall on young leaves and especially the growth point, and if this happens, they should be immediately washed off with clean water.

DEFENCE FROMFROZOKOV

To save chrysanthemums from short-term frosts in the fall and prolong flowering, in October a frame about 2 m high is placed above them and a film is pulled over it. Then flowering will continue for another whole month.

If chrysanthemums bloom at the end of September, and you want to start admiring them at the beginning of the month, reduce the daylight hours for them in August to 10 hours, covering them with a cardboard box or black non-woven film for 2 hours in the morning and evening. Then your chrysanthemums will bloom 1-2 weeks earlier.

Korean chrysanthemums successfully winter in open ground if they are properly prepared. Such preparation consists of preserving root growth, if it has formed in late summer or autumn, and pruning plants to a height of 15 to 25 cm above the soil level immediately after flowering.

In mid-October, the bushes are mulched with pine needles, a 3 cm layer of straw and covered with humus or peat chips. When the temperature drops to 3-5°C (late October - early November), small spruce branches or oak branches or thorny bushes without leaves are placed on top of the snow-holding shelter. Keep in mind that fallen leaves cannot be used to cover chrysanthemums.

In the spring, in April, the additional cover is removed to prevent the young shoots from overheating. The ground under the bush is slightly loosened, and after the growth appears, the earthen mound is finally leveled.

If you decide to grow heat-loving, tall-growing, cutting and late-flowering varieties, then it is better to dig them out of the ground in August-September and place them in a cool room (with the same temperature at which they were on the site ). This could be the basement (only dry) of a country house, which is still better than a heated house. The humidity in it should be no more than 75%, and the temperature should not exceed 10°C.

If shoots of chrysanthemums stored in the basement begin to grow in winter, remove their upper part so that 2-3 nodes remain on the stem.

However, keep in mind that such shoots are very weak and cannot be used for cuttings.

First, the plants, dug up with a large lump of earth, are cleared of dried shoots and dying foliage. Place in boxes or pots filled with a fresh fertile mixture consisting of 2 parts humus, 1 part peat, 0.5 parts sand and 2 parts leaf soil (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with turf).

Gradually lowering the temperature in the storage area, bring it to a level of 5-6 ° C by November and leave it there until the end of February. During this period, plants are watered no more than two or three times a month.

But from March, chrysanthemums need light, and then they are transferred to a glazed veranda, a terrace with a higher temperature than in the basement (10-12 ° C). Only under this condition will the shoots be able to develop successfully and will not be elongated and will acquire a normal green color. About 10 days after transferring the chrysanthemum, it is advisable to feed it with ammonium nitrate (at the rate of 30-50 g per 10 liters of water), and then with complete mineral fertilizer (20-30 g per 10 liters of water).

At the end of May - beginning of June, overwintered bushes are planted in open ground, increasing their feeding area by 1.5-2 times.

Chrysanthemums in the garden: causes of flowering problems

Potted chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is rightly called the queen of the autumn garden. However, flower growers are often disappointed with the negative results of growing chrysanthemums that do not bloom.

Problems resulting in the lack of flowering in chrysanthemums for various reasons are faced by those gardeners who, when choosing suitable plants for their garden, do not take into account a number of important factors that determine the successful flowering of chrysanthemums.

Let us consider in this article the main factors influencing the flowering of chrysanthemums.

Choose early varieties of chrysanthemums for the garden

One of the main reasons for failures with chrysanthemums, which simply do not have time to bloom in open ground before the onset of autumn cold, is the variety of plants.

When choosing chrysanthemum varieties for your garden, study the characteristics of the varieties you like, including paying attention to the flowering period of the chrysanthemum variety.

Early varieties of chrysanthemums, as a rule, bloom from July-August to October.
They usually take 7-8 weeks from bud formation to flowering.

Medium-flowering varieties of chrysanthemums require more time to set buds (9-10 weeks), and therefore they bloom later, in October-November.

Late varieties of chrysanthemums bloom in November-December.

Please note that small-flowered chrysanthemums usually bloom much earlier than large-flowered varieties.

Perform chrysanthemum farming techniques

Chrysanthemum is a light-loving crop, so chrysanthemum bushes grow well, develop and bloom only in good light. Therefore, you need to plant chrysanthemums in full sun. In this case, chrysanthemum bushes should not be shaded by neighboring plants.

Remember that chrysanthemum is a short-day plant.

The chrysanthemum bush grows actively and produces buds when the day is longer than the night.
And shortening the length of the day accelerates the development and formation of buds and the blooming of inflorescences in chrysanthemums.

Germinate and cut chrysanthemums in early spring

Another important reason for the lack of flowering in non-frost-resistant chrysanthemums
– after wintering, it is too late to take the mother chrysanthemum out of storage for germination.
This should be done at the beginning of March.

Under no circumstances should you plant a chrysanthemum as a whole bush!
The mother chrysanthemum requires cuttings.

Three weeks before the start of spring cuttings, the chrysanthemum mother plant is taken out of storage and placed in a bright, cool place for germination (optimally at a temperature of +15 degrees).
When the young chrysanthemum shoots reach 5-7 cm, I cut them with a sharp knife and plant them in picking boxes.

You can also separate growing shoots with existing roots from the mother chrysanthemum bush; but do not plant more than one stem side by side. It is better to immediately place such rooted plants in individual cups.

To ensure that chrysanthemum cuttings take root well, I use a pre-prepared loose and nutritious soil mixture consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts humus and 1 part sand.

I plant chrysanthemum cuttings in sand and cover them with film (or spray them several times a day).

For successful rooting of chrysanthemum cuttings in early spring, additional lighting is important.
If chrysanthemum cuttings grow poorly, then they need to be fed 1-2 times with complete mineral fertilizer (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

Feed chrysanthemums throughout the garden season

Chrysanthemums need an abundance of nutrients for good growth and flowering, so they require regular feeding.

During the active growing season, chrysanthemums in open ground need nitrogen fertilizing 2 times a month. As a rule, gardeners use a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20).
Urea is used as a mineral fertilizer - 1 tbsp. for 10 l. water.

When the chrysanthemum bushes have buds, I feed them once with superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

Chrysanthemum requires regular care

The soil around the chrysanthemum bush must be kept moderately moist. Therefore, in dry weather, especially during drought, chrysanthemums should be watered daily or even twice a day.

The success of growing chrysanthemums also depends on the ability to correctly form a bush.

It is necessary to remove stepchildren from large-flowered chrysanthemums in a timely manner.
The bud selection technique is also used for large-flowered chrysanthemums.

In May - June, the plant has a zero bud - if you leave it, then the chrysanthemum will bloom in August, and if you remove it, it will bloom in September.
Therefore, in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom earlier, there is no need to pinch the zero bud.

In small-flowered chrysanthemums, a beautiful bush is formed by pinching shoots.

After planting young plants in open ground, at the beginning of growth and the formation of new leaves, the tops of the plants are pinched - this causes the growth of side shoots with an abundance of buds.

The formed bush of winter-hardy Korean chrysanthemum is an attractive flowering ball that decorates the autumn garden for a long time, right up to severe cold weather.

Antonina Kazankova

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

Chrysanthemum seedlings obtained from cuttings require special care. Watering and fertilizing for it is carried out in the same way as for other seedlings. However, for chrysanthemums it is very important to properly form the plant during this period. Formation is done differently in different species and varieties. Of the perennial chrysanthemums in cultivation, the following types are known: hybrid chrysanthemums (Chinese, Indian and their hybrids) and Korean (small-flowered, wintering well in our conditions, popularly called “oaks”).

Korean chrysanthemums in cultivation are the simplest, they do not require special shaping. Seedlings are planted on the twentieth of May at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The soil around the plants must be well compacted, otherwise there will be strong shoot growth and weak flowering. In the first days after planting, abundant watering is necessary.

Hybrid chrysanthemums are divided into
small-flowered and large-flowered.

During the formation of small flowers. Using chrysanthemums by pinching shoots, they try to get a well-developed crown with a large number of shoots and inflorescences.

To do this, pinch the tip of the shoot above the 4-5th leaf in young plants.
From the remaining buds, 2-4 shoots appear, which are also pinched over the 7-8th leaf.
The result is a plant with a beautiful crown; it produces 20-40 inflorescences or more.

This type of chrysanthemum can be formed in standard form.
To do this, the main shoot is grown to the required height, the top is pinched and all side shoots are removed, leaving only 2-4 on top, the pinching of which is repeated 2-3 times until a well-developed crown is obtained.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched at a height of 10-15 cm, removing the apical bud, since the central shoot, as a rule, produces a poorly formed and small inflorescence. Of the resulting shoots, 1-3 are left, from which all lateral shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are usually planted in the ground at the end of May at a distance of 40-50 cm from one another and only at the end of summer are they transplanted into pots or onto greenhouse shelves. Large-flowered plants are transplanted into 11-13 cm pots, tied to pegs and at the end of May they are dug with pots into ridges of open ground (25 pcs./m2).

Kolesnikova E.G.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums: growing secrets

Chrysanthemum. Variety V. Tereshkova

Chrysanthemums are considered favorites of the fading autumn garden; they are the leading flower crop of the late autumn and early winter periods. A large number of bred varieties of chrysanthemums allows you to choose plants for every taste.

Many flower growers around the world classify chrysanthemums as “hobby” plants and collect collections of these wonderful plants. People in Japan are especially sensitive to the culture of chrysanthemums. In Japanese culture, the art of creating dolls from living chrysanthemums even originated.

Unpretentious garden chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering in October - when significant frosts occur.
And large-flowered chrysanthemums under the cover of a greenhouse are not afraid of bad weather - they continue to delight with their beauty and freshness for a long time.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are good for cutting; they are widely used to create autumn compositions. Huge flowers of various colors, beautiful foliage on strong tall stems, long-term preservation of freshness in a vase, a combination of the highly decorative nature of large-flowered chrysanthemums with late flowering are the components of the constant and widespread popularity of these majestic and at the same time graceful plants.

Watering and fertilizing large-flowered chrysanthemums

During the period of active summer growth of chrysanthemums, in order to obtain full-fledged flowers in the fall, the main task of plant care is watering and timely provision of necessary nutrients.
At the beginning of the growth of young chrysanthemums, they need to be watered frequently until the root system is strong enough. When watering chrysanthemums, I try not to wet the leaves.

The most important nutritional element for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences.
With increasing doses of nitrogen added to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase.
Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants in general become more decorative.
However, the positive effect of nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).

With a lack of nitrogen, chrysanthemum bushes form weak, with pale green leaves and small, irregularly shaped inflorescences; They bloom very late.
When there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, this nutrient is used by plants secondary (that is, the upper growing part of the shoots “takes” nitrogen from the lower part of the plant). Then the lighter lower leaves on the shoots of chrysanthemums indicate a lack of nitrogen in the substrate.

Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and fragile; Over-fertilized plants also bloom late.

Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, so I definitely apply it again - in the form of several feedings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums).

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, fermented grass, mullein infusion, vermicompost infusion, etc.

The positive effect of nitrogen on chrysanthemums appears only with a sufficient amount of phosphorus, which is especially important during the formation of inflorescences. Phosphorus accelerates the flowering of chrysanthemums and increases plant resistance to disease.
With a lack of phosphorus, there is a severe delay in the growth and development of chrysanthemum bushes: the plants bloom late and have small inflorescences; the leaves become small, acquire a light green color, and lose their elasticity. In case of severe phosphorus deficiency, the lower leaves of the shoots dry out.

Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums

During regular plant inspections, dead leaves on chrysanthemum bushes must be removed in a timely manner, since they are primarily affected by pests and diseases. Chrysanthemums are mainly attacked by aphids (most often the so-called “bloody” aphid). Sometimes Indian chrysanthemums in the garden are bothered by sparrows.

I grow large-flowered chrysanthemums propagated by cuttings in the second half of April and May without pinching. And if chrysanthemum cuttings were planted early (in winter and early spring, in February-March), then I pinch such plants to avoid premature flowering. Each pinching delays the flowering of chrysanthemums by 2-3 weeks.
For chrysanthemum varieties “Gazelle” and “V. Tereshkova” I perform pinching no more than twice. The first time I pinch a young plant after rooting, at a height of about 15 cm. The second time I pinch a plant shoot when it reaches a height of 25 cm. I then use the cut tops of chrysanthemum shoots for propagation.

For developing large-flowered chrysanthemums, I usually leave one shoot and one central bud in order to obtain highly decorative, large inflorescences. Sometimes I leave 2-3 shoots on a powerful bush (in this case, smaller inflorescences form on them).

The main way to obtain large inflorescences of chrysanthemums is the timely removal of emerging side shoots and buds - pinching and pinching. If they are removed too late, the main peduncle in the upper part of the shoot grows thin and the inflorescence becomes smaller, which reduces the decorativeness of the plant.
I remove side buds from large-flowered chrysanthemums carefully and as early as possible (as soon as you can grab the side buds with your fingers so as not to damage the remaining main bud).

Since plants of the same variety often develop unevenly, their buds do not form simultaneously, with a difference of 10-15 days. Therefore, during the budding period, in order to timely remove the side buds, it is necessary to check the condition of chrysanthemums several times, every 3-4 days.

Planting and replanting large-flowered chrysanthemums

Large-flowered chrysanthemums of the varieties “Gazelle” and “V. Tereshkova" I grow in open ground until they bloom. Therefore, I plant the plants in the garden in such a way that later blooming chrysanthemums can be covered from bad weather with film or frames. This allows you to obtain high-quality cut chrysanthemums directly from open ground, without replanting plants.

Transplanting chrysanthemum bushes of the "Gazelle" variety significantly affects the quality of the inflorescences. In addition, cut flowers from transplanted bushes cost 2-3 times less than inflorescences from non-transplanted bushes.

Sometimes I plant chrysanthemums in large pots, which I dig completely into the soil of the garden. In August, I remove pots with plants from the ground and move them indoors or in a greenhouse. At the same time, the root system of potted chrysanthemums is not disturbed; they bloom and last much longer when cut than “ground” plants.

Protection of large-flowered chrysanthemums in autumn

When I cover the large-flowered chrysanthemums blooming in the garden in the fall with a film on top from bad weather, I also make sure to stretch the fabric over the plants (for this purpose, you can use any brand of covering material). Otherwise, during the wind, when the film “flapping” under its gusts, drops of condensation flying off the film will fall on the chrysanthemums. Large snow-white flowers of chrysanthemums of the “Gazelle” variety quickly lose their decorative effect and rot when dropped by water, but chrysanthemums of the “Valentina Tereshkova” variety are not so afraid of dripping moisture.

At temperatures below +3 degrees, chrysanthemums of the “Gazelle” variety produce poor flower baskets, the flowers begin to turn black. That’s why I heat up the film greenhouse with chrysanthemums when it’s frosty.
I water the chrysanthemums in the greenhouse generously, but at the same time I try not to let the water get on the leaves.

Wintering of large-flowered chrysanthemums

Indian large-flowered chrysanthemums do not overwinter in open ground in regions with cold climates because they cannot withstand long, frosty winters. Therefore, you need to take care of their wintering: in the fall, the queen cells of large-flowered chrysanthemums have to be dug up and stored in storage for winter preservation.

If in the southern part of Belarus you can leave large-flowered chrysanthemums for the winter in open ground (but only with very careful dry shelter), then in the central and northern parts of the republic it is very risky to do this. In the fall, I dig up chrysanthemum queen cells and store them in the winter at positive temperatures.

In order to preserve the existing highly decorative large-flowered chrysanthemums for further cultivation, I select the best plants for queen cells during their flowering.
High-quality queen cells have large, regular-shaped flowers, beautiful leaves and a healthy appearance of the bushes in general; full-fledged plants form many strong layerings.

The most valuable thing in chrysanthemum mother plants are the layerings that grew during the flowering of the plants. In the future, these layerings will be used to propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings.

Winter storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is the most critical moment in their cultivation, requiring very precise implementation of these instructions.

After cutting the flowers, I cut off the mother plants of chrysanthemums, leaving the lower part of the shoots up to 10 cm long. I dig up the plants and place the rhizomes very tightly in deep boxes. On top I pour a slightly damp mixture of peat and sand into the box in equal parts (so that only the tops of the layering remain at the top).

I leave the boxes with chrysanthemum queen cells in the greenhouse or on the veranda until it gets cold, without watering them. I take the plants for storage only after the soil in the box with the queen cells has dried out significantly (the drier the better).

Any room without constant lighting, with a temperature from -1 to +5 degrees, is suitable as a storage for large-flowered chrysanthemums.

At this temperature, the rhizomes of chrysanthemums are preserved for sure, the plants do not begin to grow. In such conditions, old chrysanthemum roots do not take root during wintering; valuable cuttings are well preserved.

In winter, I do not water the queen cells of stored chrysanthemums under any circumstances.

If, during the winter storage of chrysanthemum queen cells, the tops of their cuttings were eaten by rodents that managed to get into the storage (mice, rats), then there is no need to worry about damaged cuttings.

They will not die from this, it’s just that then in the future there will be no need to pinch the tops of chrysanthemum cuttings.

Surely you know how chrysanthemums bloom. These incredibly beautiful, delicate and colorful flowers delight the eyes of gardeners and summer residents. Chrysanthemums can be red, purple, yellow, pink, white. But what if you don’t have a plot of land where you can grow this miracle? There is no need to despair, chrysanthemum can be grown in a pot, right on your windowsill.

Garden chrysanthemum in a pot

Many novice gardeners are surprised, is it possible to grow a garden chrysanthemum in a pot? After all, a real chrysanthemum is quite large in size, its stem reaches more than a meter in length. The fact is that for growing chrysanthemums, only dwarf varieties are chosen, which do not grow, but are formed by shrubs. Along with this, such chrysanthemums are treated with retardants. These are means that retard the growth of a plant in length. Thanks to this treatment, the chrysanthemum grows in width, that is, it forms a lush, luxurious bush. In addition, do not be afraid to trim the chrysanthemum stem before the buds appear. This is done in order to suppress the growth of a tall stem and form a bush from the plant. But before that, you need to understand in detail how to grow a chrysanthemum from scratch in a pot.

Planting chrysanthemums

1. Chrysanthemums are planted and replanted in early spring, when the plant is still dormant. To plant a chrysanthemum, you can take a sprout from the garden, that is, plant a very ordinary chrysanthemum in a pot. You can replant the plant that you removed for wintering into a new pot. If you want to grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you will need to first grow the seedlings in greenhouse conditions.
2. Chrysanthemum reproduces well by cuttings and dividing the bush. The last method is the most acceptable, since if you have your own roots, the chrysanthemum almost always takes root.
3. To grow chrysanthemums, you need to take nutritious soil with sufficient breathability. You need to put drainage at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay pebbles or brick shards. Four parts of garden soil should be mixed with one part of chicken or cow manure, one part of sand and four parts of turf soil. This substrate is placed in a pot and the chrysanthemum is planted so that its roots are completely in the soil.
4. If you are replanting an adult chrysanthemum, please note that the new pot should be large in size. In the first 3-4 years, the chrysanthemum should be replanted every year, after which replanting may be less frequent.
5. As soon as you have “settled” the plant in a new place, it should be placed in the open air - a balcony, loggia, window sill on the outside of the window. But only if the temperature outside has already stabilized above zero.

Despite the fact that a chrysanthemum in a pot is still the same garden flower, caring for it is slightly different from the classic one.

1. Watering. Chrysanthemum loves water and the plant needs to be watered 2-3 times a week, depending on the amount and intensity of sunlight. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate drying out and immediately dies from it. It is best to water the flower when the top of the soil dries out. In winter, the intensity of watering is significantly reduced. If you store the chrysanthemum at low temperatures, watering the plant once a month is enough. Excessive watering of chrysanthemums at any time of the year can lead to rotting of the roots. In the summer, you can spray the flower a couple of times a week - this will make it grow better.
2. Temperature. Chrysanthemum is a fairly non-capricious plant; it calmly survives temperature changes. However, it blooms and develops best in summer at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. The optimal winter temperature is 6-8 degrees. The plant can survive minor frosts down to -3 degrees.
3. Illumination. When choosing a place for your flower, it is very important to find a natural balance. If you place the chrysanthemum in direct sunlight, the plant will dry out and the flowers will fade too quickly. If you place the plant on the north side, the buds may simply not open. The optimal choice is eastern and western windows, that is, places where the sun's rays hit the flower in the morning or evening. Chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when daylight hours become short, 8-10 hours. Some experienced gardeners create an artificial environment, forcing the chrysanthemum to bloom. That is, every day they cover the plant with a dark cap, simulating night. This way you can achieve repeated flowering of chrysanthemums within a year.
4. Feeding. Chrysanthemums should be fertilized no earlier than two weeks after transplantation. If you added droppings to the substrate, it means that the chrysanthemum does not need feeding for about two more months. In general, the flower needs to be fertilized only in spring, summer and autumn, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing and blooming. In winter, feeding is stopped. Plants need to be fertilized with compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus.
5. Flower molding. Flower shops often sell incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums in the form of a blooming ball. To achieve such a figure, the chrysanthemum needs to be formed in time. To do this, you need to pinch the plant in those places where it goes beyond the frame of the figure. This not only shapes the appearance of the future flower, but also increases the number of young shoots on the plucked branch. Usually in the spring-summer period two or three moldings are enough.
6. Wintering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly sent for wintering so that next spring it will delight you with young green shoots. To do this, all faded buds, dry leaves and stems must be cut off. The plant should have cuttings no more than 10-15 cm in height. After this, the flower along with the pot should be placed in a cool room - entrance, basement, garage. Chrysanthemums can also be transplanted into open ground for the winter. To do this, the plant is dug up along with the root system, planted in the soil, sprinkled with dry soil and leaves. However, this does not guarantee that the flower will survive. In the spring, when the first young leaves appear, the flower can be planted back into the pot.

Chrysanthemum blooms almost always. But if in the fall, with the decrease in daylight hours, the plant still does not please you with flowering, it means that the care was incorrect. Pay attention to the lighting. Chrysanthemum will not bloom if it does not have enough sun. Also, the plant will not please you with flowering if you have not fed it - the plant does not bloom in poor soil with a lack of phosphorus and potassium.

It is important to note that the last pinching should be in the summer. If you pinch your chrysanthemum too late, there is a chance that you are cutting off branches that were intended to produce buds. Don’t delay with molding, and if you didn’t have time to do it in the summer, don’t touch the chrysanthemum so as not to lose its flowering completely.

What does chrysanthemum suffer from?

Like other house flowers, chrysanthemum can be susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often you can find spider mites on chrysanthemum bushes. You can easily recognize its presence by its thin and sticky web. In this case, immediate treatment is required. The easiest way is to wipe with soap. Dilute a soap solution in warm water and gently wipe all the leaves and stems of the plant with it. After this, rinse the indoor flower in the shower, choosing light streams so that the water does not damage the bush.

If you notice a gray coating on your chrysanthemums, it means that the plant is sick with powdery mildew. This is one of the most common ailments. In this case, a fungicide, which is sold in flower shops, will help. The chemical composition is diluted in water according to the instructions, and then sprayed onto the plant. Usually one treatment is enough. Powdery mildew affects the flower at high humidity. After processing, you should move the pot to a drier room.

If the edges of the chrysanthemum leaves turn brown and the stems have an ashy coating, it means that the plant has become sick with gray rot. Here you will need treatment with foundationazole. But if the indoor air is too dry, the plant can be affected by spider mites. It is exterminated with alcohol tincture of garlic.

Chrysanthemum is an amazing autumn flower. He plays with colors, delighting his owners with various shades. Proper and competent care will allow you to grow this riot of colors at home yourself.

Video: growing chrysanthemums at home