Do-it-yourself eternal greenhouse. How to Arrange Greenhouses Inside: Detailed Instructions. From scrap materials

When building closed ground structures, it is important not only to build a high-quality and durable frame, but also to properly think through the interior space of the room. Arranging the inside of a greenhouse involves using some planning tricks that will help you wisely use the free space to place beds and all the necessary equipment.

You will learn in this article how to set up a polycarbonate greenhouse inside and how to arrange beds for growing vegetables, herbs and other crops.

Arrangement of the greenhouse inside

To successfully grow plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to ensure a stable indoor microclimate. To do this, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation, install heating devices in it, and also ensure optimal levels of humidity, lighting and fresh air flow.

Transparent materials that allow sunlight to pass through are used as coverings for greenhouses. Inside the room they are converted into thermal energy. The main task is to limit the transfer of heat from the internal space to the outside. It is necessary to install devices in the building that will evenly distribute the flow of thermal energy. When arranging it, you need to use materials and devices that can absorb and accumulate thermal energy.

For these purposes, you can use ordinary building materials. For example, if you use natural stone as a floor covering, it will absorb heat during the day and release it into the space at night. Brick and concrete, which are most often used for construction, have a low ability to store heat, but if the building has walls and floors of the correct thickness, these materials will also help ensure an optimal microclimate. For example, the thickness of a concrete wall should be 200-250 mm, and a brick wall - 130-150 mm.

Other means can be used as heat storage devices:

  • Water containers: their surface must be coated with dark paint so that they better absorb the sun's rays. Large barrels, old paint cans or other containers can be used as water heat accumulators.
  • Priming: using ordinary soil as a heat accumulator is the simplest and cheapest way. However, the soil itself has a low ability to accumulate heat, so special mechanical devices must be used to heat it.
  • Stone: it can be used as a decorative element and a heat accumulator at the same time. But for the device to operate efficiently, fans are additionally installed to uniformly heat the stones. As a rule, natural stones are laid in one row against the wall, which receives maximum sunlight. They are laid out in one row, leaving small gaps for air circulation. In addition, stones can be placed under the floor.

To improve the microclimate, greenhouses are equipped with additional thermal insulation. Recommendations for thermal insulation are shown in Figure 1.


Figure 1. One of the thermal insulation options

To do this, you need to reduce the transparency of the coating by attaching the greenhouse to a residential building or using shading. In addition, to reduce heat loss they use:

  • Thermal insulation of windows: It is better to install windows with double frames indoors. This will not only reduce heat loss, but also prevent the formation of condensation.
  • Movable heat insulating means: Shutters, blinds, curtains or curtains can be used as such means. Advantage should be given to sliding structures to save internal space. Rigid and flexible thermal insulation materials can be used both inside and outside the building.
  • Thermal insulation of the base part: It is through the floor of a protected ground structure that the most heat is lost, so the base of the building must be insulated.

It is also important to protect the structure from wind, which creates a pressure difference and leads to heat loss. Therefore, the greenhouse must be placed so that it is protected from the prevailing winds by another building, fence or hedge.

How to make beds in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Arrangement of the building inside with planning tricks first of all involves the proper placement of beds.

Note: It is better to build a greenhouse from polycarbonate, as it is a lightweight and durable material that allows you to create optimal climatic conditions inside.

To know how to make beds in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you first need to decide on the type of structure of the protected soil. They can be ground or racked, respectively, and the plants are placed either on ground beds or on special racks. At home, ground greenhouses are considered more popular.

When planning the placement of beds, it is necessary to take into account the location of the structure itself relative to the cardinal directions, the expected number and size of beds and the characteristics of the crops that will be grown indoors.

The standard arrangement of beds in a 6*3 meter greenhouse includes the following nuances(Figure 2):

  • The number of beds is 2-3 pieces, depending on the width of the structure;
  • The optimal width is 120 cm, since in this case the plants are easy to care for by moving along the paths;
  • To have free access to all plants, you need to make not only longitudinal, but also transverse passes;
  • The width of the longitudinal passage should be at least 50 cm, since in this case you can move freely along the passage with the necessary tools.

Figure 2. Options for location of beds

Another option that is considered convenient is that there is a wide bed in the middle and two narrow ones near the walls. This arrangement allows you to gain access to all the plants, but at the same time maintain useful soil area.

Many greenhouse owners have long appreciated the benefits of raised beds. Firstly, they save usable space, and secondly, they make caring for plants much easier, since a person does not need to bend too low to weed, water or loosen the soil.

Note: Raised beds also allow for early harvests, as the soil warms up faster and retains heat longer.

There are several options for creating raised beds(Figure 3):

  1. A frame is made from wooden boards into which the soil mixture is poured. To prevent wood from rotting in high humidity conditions, it must be treated with special antiseptics. The disadvantage of this method is that ants often infest the wood, and if this happens, the material will have to be changed to another.
  2. A raised bed can also be made from compressed polystyrene foam. It is better to take sheets 4 cm wide: they are quite durable and retain heat well.
  3. Asbestos-cement slabs are also often used to build high beds. They are cut into pieces and attached to metal rods. This is a durable material, but it is considered harmful, so it is better to choose only chrysolite asbestos, which is less toxic.
  4. Brick sides are the simplest, strongest and most durable option. For construction, you can use any bricks that will last for a long time.

Figure 3. Arranging high beds in a greenhouse

It is better not to use slate for the construction of high beds, as it releases carcinogens into the air that are harmful to human health.

Fencing and covering paths in a greenhouse

When arranging the inside of a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide a covering and fencing for the paths so that the soil does not crumble from the beds.


Figure 4. Arrangement of paths in the greenhouse

For this purpose, it is best to use boards treated with special agents against rotting and fungus (Figure 4). The boards are buried in the ground so that they protrude several centimeters above the ground level. It is not recommended to make the sides high, as they will complicate the care of plants.

Soil preparation and quality

For rapid growth of crops, the soil must be more fertile than in open areas. There is no need to change the soil every year; it is enough to just add manure or compost, the amount of which is a tenth of the total amount of soil. To further saturate the soil with nutrients, add bone meal, dolomite mixture, peat and wood ash. Figure 5 outlines the procedure for preparing soil for beds in protected soil structures.

All soil components must be thoroughly mixed. Since the soil for the greenhouse contains peat, the soil will be quite porous. This mixture retains moisture well and contains a minimal amount of weed seeds and roots. Before planting and after harvesting, the soil should be fertilized with compost.

Are common soil requirements for a greenhouse include:

  • The composition must include organic components with living beneficial microorganisms;
  • The soil should be saturated with minerals that are easily absorbed by the root system of plants;
  • Acidity should be optimal (6.5-7 pH), and the soil itself should have good air permeability and retain moisture.

Different soil mixtures have their own characteristics, and they are selected depending on the crops that will be grown indoors. For example, for seedlings you need to take hygroscopic soil, consisting of garden soil, sand and peat in equal quantities. Additionally, the beds are fertilized with compost, which is prepared using household waste or leaves. The material is placed in a wooden box, covered with earth and periodically watered. Sometimes a special nutritious compost with worms (based on a mixture of kitchen waste and seaweed meal) is prepared for protected ground structures.


Figure 5. Preparation of soil mixture for the greenhouse

Other components are also used to prepare a plant base for greenhouse soil.:

  • Chicken manure concentrate. It must be prepared a year before use, as chicken manure contains too much nitrogen;
  • Green mass from medicinal herbs;
  • A liquid solution of soot and wood ash is used for irrigation.

In addition, during operation, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil to improve the quality of seeds and fruits.

How to prepare the soil for various vegetables and fruits

When deciding how to arrange a polycarbonate greenhouse inside, you should pay attention not only to the location of the beds, but also to the soil that will be used for growing crops.

Note: It is better to use a special soil mixture that does not contain weed seeds and bacteria, and the soil itself is well ventilated and does not retain much moisture.

For large buildings, it is not economically profitable to buy special soil for each type of vegetable, so you can prepare the soil mixture yourself.

Recipes for preparing soil for different crops are as follows::

  • For tomatoes and peppers take 1 part of rotted humus, forest or garden soil and sand. The composition is thoroughly mixed and sifted through a coarse sieve. To saturate the soil with nutrients, add 100 grams of chalk or eggshells and 100 grams of ash per bucket of the finished mixture. At the end of cooking, the mixture is steamed to kill bacteria.
  • For cucumbers and zucchini take 3 parts humus, 4 parts loamy soil and 3 parts peat. You can also add sawdust to the mixture. Such soil turns out to be light and quite nutritious.

In one greenhouse it is better to grow crops with similar characteristics and requirements for soil conditions. But, if this is impossible, high partitions are installed between beds with different soils.

Preparing the southern wall

During the summer, too much sunlight enters the greenhouse. This can cause overheating and death of plants, so protected ground structures must be shaded.

Note: When arranging high-quality ventilation, shading may not be used, since the flows of warm and cool air are distributed evenly. The main sign that signals the need for shading is reddening of plant leaves.

There are several types of plant protection from excess light. You can apply paint, a special protective liquid, or attach a dense material to the transparent surface. Previously, for shading, glass was coated with lime or emulsion paint diluted with water. However, this method has one significant drawback: in the fall the coating must be removed with a brush, and this is a rather labor-intensive process.


Figure 6. Options for shading greenhouses

Modern industry produces special liquids that are quickly and easily applied, are not washed off by rain, but at the same time they can be washed off without much difficulty in the fall. The only drawback is that on cloudy days the cover cannot be removed and the plants will lack light. That is why preference should be given to special materials that, if necessary, cover the transparent part on sunny days and open on cloudy days. Such devices are called external and internal shading screens. Options for shading materials are shown in Figure 6.

Blinds are used as internal screens. They roll up easily and protect plants from direct sunlight. External screens perform the same function, but also give plants additional protection from spring frosts.

Note: External screens are more convenient to use. When installing shutters inside a greenhouse, the temperature in the room will increase, and if ornamental plants with large leaves are grown in the building, the shutters may damage them.

To prevent external shading screens from being torn off by a gust of wind, they must be securely attached to the frame. It is best to give preference to products made of wooden or plastic slats located horizontally. They are quite durable, easy to install and remove, and allow some of the sunlight that plants need to pass through. In addition, regular burlap or other dense fabric can be used as a shading screen. In some cases, light-sensitive sensors are installed on external screens to automate the shading process.

Arrangement of beds in a 3 x 6 greenhouse

In a greenhouse measuring 3*6 meters, it is best to make two beds along the walls with a central passage between them. In this case, it is desirable that the width of the passage be 50 cm, so that it is convenient to move around the room with equipment.

In some cases, it is possible to place three small beds: one central and two side ones. This option reduces the usable area, but allows you to grow crops with different requirements for soil conditions.

Organization of space inside

The sun's rays penetrating into the building create a greenhouse effect. The air inside stagnates and becomes an ideal environment for the development of pathogens and pests. Therefore, it is important to equip the greenhouse with a ventilation system and devices to maintain humidity.

Note: When installing automatic ventilation systems, their operation must be coordinated with the operation of heating devices and shading devices.

To ventilate protected ground shelters, ventilation is most often used using open windows, vents and doors (Figure 7). Basic requirements for arrangement include:

  • In order for enough air to get inside, the area of ​​windows and vents should be less than 20% of the total area of ​​the structure. Ventilation is very beneficial for plants, especially for seedlings that will later be transferred to open ground. About two weeks before transplantation, ventilation is carried out not only during the day, but also at night. However, you need to make sure that there are no drafts inside.
  • It is best to place windows under the ceiling. The air, heating up, rises and exits through the open window. As a rule, for small greenhouses, two vents located on opposite sides of the roof are sufficient. But for large structures, ventilation holes must be installed every two meters, and if alpine plants are grown in the greenhouse, a continuous row of windows will be installed on both sides of the roof.
  • To speed up ventilation, additionally install side windows located at the level of the shelving or slightly above ground level. They can be made ordinary, but it is better to install blinds that will allow air to pass through and disperse. The side openings are located on both sides so that during strong winds only those located on the leeward side can be opened.

Figure 7. Ventilation using open vents

When arranging ventilation, it is important to remember that for normal development plants need not only oxygen, but also carbon dioxide, which is formed in the soil and compost. In small rooms, the ventilation regime is often disrupted due to thermal energy savings. The best solution to this problem would be to install automatic ventilation systems. As a rule, they are installed in large industrial greenhouses, where opening and closing windows manually is difficult.

There are others heat ventilation methods c (Figure 8):

  • Installation of fans allows for constant air circulation. It is important to select devices of suitable power depending on the size of the building. The smaller the fan, the higher above ground level it is located. For example, in small greenhouses they usually install only one fan, hanging it above the door.
  • Ventilation pipes They draw fresh air in and send warm air out. It is recommended to make the southern side of the pipe from glass, and the internal parts from metal. This will improve the heating of the pipe and increase traction.

Figure 8. Installation of fans in the greenhouse

In small greenhouses, it is enough to equip a ventilation pipe, and if additional ventilation is necessary, simply open the front door (Figure 9). You can learn more about greenhouse ventilation from the video.


Figure 9. Greenhouse ventilation using pipes and automatic systems

In addition to natural heating, additional heating devices are also used in closed ground structures.

Note: It is better to install several types of heating at once in order to maximize the use of the greenhouse.

Figure 10. Organization of solar heating of protected ground structures

Figure 10 shows a diagram that can be used to provide natural solar heating in a greenhouse. The type of heating devices is selected individually depending on the plants that will be grown. For example, tropical and potted crops require more intense heating than vegetables.

There are several types of heating:

  1. Using a solar system: The device consists of a solar collector and a heat accumulator. The collector is a glass-covered box with a heating coil inside. An ordinary barrel with a layer of thermal insulation can serve as a heat accumulator. A radiator is installed next to the collector and battery, and all parts of the solar installation are connected to each other by insulated pipes.
  2. Biofuel: Most often, manure is used for heating. As organic fertilizers decompose, they produce heat. Household compost, garbage or wood waste (bark, sawdust) can be used as biofuel. Biofuel can be burned in special stoves or placed on beds after removing the top layer of soil. After burning biofuel in the beds, the soil needs to be leveled and after a few days, when the ground has warmed up, you can start planting.
  3. Water heating(Figure 11): a boiler is installed in the vestibule of the greenhouse, the water in which is heated with gas, electricity or solid fuel. When selecting a boiler, key attention should be paid to the power of the device, since the heating area will depend on it. Hot water from the boiler is distributed throughout the building through pipes located around the perimeter. They need to be equipped with regulators to reduce or increase the temperature in the building.
  4. Gas heating: Such heating devices are distinguished by high technology and reliability. However, during the combustion process, natural gas emits too much carbon dioxide, so additional hoods are installed. In addition, heating a greenhouse with gas is expensive and is not always suitable for small farms.
  5. in this case, a stove with a chimney is installed in the building. Despite the fact that ovens take up a lot of space, they are able to maintain a stable temperature for a long time. As a rule, stove heating is installed in the vestibule so as not to pollute the internal space of the protected ground structure with soot and smoke. Figure 12 shows drawings for installing stove heating with your own hands.

In addition, the greenhouse can be heated with electric heating devices: portable fans with an air heating function or static units. In this case, it is necessary to equip the building with a fan to circulate heated air.


Figure 11. Arrangement of water heating

Operating a greenhouse in spring and fall can be quite successful with natural light, but when the days become cloudier, especially in winter, additional lighting fixtures need to be installed.

In addition, each crop needs a certain lighting intensity. The most light-loving plants are tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce and peppers. Green crops, onions and biennial plants are less demanding of light. Plant growth is negatively affected by both too little and too much sun.


Figure 12. Drawings for arranging furnace heating

To enhance natural lighting, a blank wall can be painted a light color or covered with reflective material. To reduce light, the building is usually shaded.

An important condition for growing plants is maintaining an optimal level of humidity. To determine its level, special devices, hygrographs or psychrometers, which you can make yourself, are hung in the building. To do this, you need two thermometers and a special table that provides data for determining the humidity level. Examples for making a psychrometer are shown in Figure 13.


Figure 13. Psychometers for measuring humidity

Two thermometers are placed side by side on one board. The ball of one of them should be dry, and the second should be constantly wet. To do this, just wrap the thermometer in gauze and place it in a container of boiled water. Every 10 minutes, instrument readings are recorded and compared using a table. For example, if the temperature difference is 4 degrees, then the humidity corresponds to 57%. Also, using the difference in indicators, you can determine the probability of frost.

In order for a door or window to open automatically, a special device is installed - a “door pump”. It does not consume electricity, but you need to select the device according to the weight and design of the door or window, since if the pump is weak, the door may jam (Figure 14).


Figure 14. Automatic greenhouse ventilation system

The door pump operates based on the hydraulic cylinder principle. A special wax is poured into the working body (pipe) of the device, which expands when heated and opens the frame. When the temperature drops, the wax cools, decreases in volume and the door closes. Sometimes gas (for example, freon) is used for these purposes.

A thermal drive can be used as an automatic ventilation system. This is a device consisting of two plates that have different coefficients of linear expansion (for example, plexiglass and metal). The plates are held together at a certain temperature, and when it gets too hot or cold inside, the plates bend in a certain direction. Examples of drawings for manufacturing a thermal drive are shown in Figure 15.

Note: If you visit the greenhouse site only on weekends, it makes sense to install an automatic temperature control device in the building. The device is a regulator consisting of a sector body, a rotary valve, an inspection cover and a pusher link. An old soccer ball camera is attached to the sector body (tank) and connected to the tank with a regular rubber hose.

An air tank is installed in the building. When the temperature inside exceeds 25 degrees, the air in the tank expands and fills the chamber. When filled, it activates the valve and push link, which opens the window. As the temperature drops, the reverse process occurs and the transom closes under its own weight. Since such a device is mechanical, it does not require special care for successful operation and operates completely autonomously. From the video you will learn how to make an automatic window lifter for a greenhouse with your own hands.


Figure 15. Drawings of a thermal drive for a greenhouse

When installing wiring for lighting or heating a greenhouse, extreme care must be taken due to the high humidity inside the building.

Note: If the greenhouse is a separate building, the cable from it is taken out, and if it is attached to the house, the electrical wiring is connected to a common power supply system.

The wires inside can be laid underground or pulled from above using poles. If the electrical wiring will be laid underground, you need to choose areas where excavation work will not be carried out. Otherwise, the cable may be damaged. In addition, the wiring must be insulated with pieces of tiles or wooden planks.

The average trench depth for laying cables is 0.75 m, but if the wires will pass under paths or lawns where excavation is not being carried out, the depth can be reduced. Under no circumstances should trenches intersect with drainage channels.

Note: After laying the electrical wiring, be sure to draw up a plan and indicate the location and depth of the trenches. In the future, this will help not to touch the wiring if you decide to redevelop the site.

If the electrical wiring cable will be carried through the air, you need to dig strong poles into the ground and attach the wires to thick wire. It is advisable to lay them so that tree branches do not touch the wires and damage them. Additionally, you need to install a control panel with separate sockets, fuses or switches. Connecting electrical appliances is carried out in the usual way, but it is better to choose rubber plugs rather than plastic ones.


Figure 16. Lamps for installing artificial lighting in greenhouses

After the installation of electricity, the possibilities for improving the lighting and heating of the building are significantly expanded. For artificial lighting, it is better to use fluorescent or regular lamps, as they are resistant to high humidity (Figure 16).

Note: The best are considered to be fluorescent lamps, the light of which is close to daylight, and during operation they do not heat the air and cannot cause burns to plants.

Conventional incandescent lamps are placed at some distance from the plants. But this can cause the stems to stretch. In addition, such lamps consume a lot of energy and quickly fail.

Photosynthetic and ultraviolet lamps can be used as an additional light source. They not only accelerate the growth of crops, but also destroy insect pests. For example, to speed up the growth of seedlings in the spring, you can hang frames with several rows of lamps above the racks. In addition, reflective screens can be hung on the walls, and boxes and glasses with seedlings should be periodically rotated so that the stems do not bend or stretch.

Watering plants in greenhouses is carried out in a special way, since insufficient or excessive moisture can lead to the death of plants. For example, crops in pots are watered, filling the entire space between the soil and the top of the pot with water. This is the only way to moisturize the entire root system.

The intensity of watering depends on many indicators: season, type of plant and soil. For example, large crops with branched roots are watered up to twice a day in summer, and only 1-2 times a week in winter and in a state of vegetative dormancy.

You can determine the lack of moisture by looking at the lower leaves. If the plant does not have enough water, they droop. In addition, dry soil is paler in color than wet soil. But if plastic pots are used for growing, the soil may be dry on top and wet inside, so you need to periodically probe the soil with your finger. If peat serves as the basis for the earthen mixture, when it dries out, the soil begins to lag behind the edges of the pot. After watering, the soil will expand and fill the empty space.

To water the beds, use a watering can or hose with a sprinkler. Thanks to this, the water is distributed evenly, and the lower leaves are not covered with a layer of dried earth. When watering the beds, you need to accurately determine whether the soil is evenly moistened. To do this, you need to dig a hole 15 cm deep, and if the soil in it is dry, continue watering.


Figure 17. Installation diagram of drip irrigation in a greenhouse

In large greenhouses, watering is usually automated. For crops grown in pots, a capillary system is installed. A film is placed at the bottom of the rack, covered with a layer of sand and regularly moistened using an automatic device (an inverted bottle attached to a holder). Pots are placed on top of the sand so that the drainage holes are completely immersed in the sand.

But the most common is the drip irrigation system. In this case, water is supplied through pipes, and watering is carried out using special holes located near each bush or pot. Timers are sometimes installed on such a system so that watering turns on automatically at a certain time (Figure 17).

Note: When using drip irrigation, plants need to be inspected periodically. the fact is that such a system introduces moisture regardless of the individual needs of the crops, so some of them may be moistened too much.

To prevent plants from dying, they must be periodically watered by hand if drip irrigation does not provide the necessary moisture, or temporarily disconnected from the system if the soil is too moist. The author of the video will tell you how to properly organize drip irrigation in a greenhouse.

Selecting material for shelving

Shelf-type greenhouses are more suitable for growing seedlings or seedlings. In such a room, the entire internal space is occupied by racks and shelves.

When choosing a material, you should take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of each type:

  • Tree- an organic material that has a beneficial effect on the growth of crops and has good thermal insulation. Since wood rots quickly in conditions of high humidity, it must be treated with antiseptics and periodically tinted during use.
  • Metal is considered a more durable material for building shelving. In addition, it is much lighter than wood, and the finished structure can be easily disassembled and reassembled.

It is best to use structures made of aluminum: it is lightweight, durable and does not deteriorate when exposed to moisture.

Installation of shelving

There is no strict size of shelving for a greenhouse, since each owner creates structures according to his height and height of the greenhouse. The width of the racks depends on the zone in which they will be located: in the center or on the sides.

There are certain requirements for the construction and installation of shelving(Figure 18):

  • The width of the central structures should not exceed one and a half meters;
  • Wall racks are no more than 90 cm wide;
  • The increased width of the racks makes them inconvenient to use, since it will be difficult for a person to reach distant plants.

A passage up to half a meter wide must be left between the racks so that you can freely walk along it with equipment or drive a wheelbarrow.

Construction of a quarantine zone

Arranging a quarantine zone is another important condition for the proper distribution of space inside the greenhouse.

A quarantine zone is necessary to protect crops from diseases and pests. It contains boxes and pots with new plants that were purchased in stores or other farms. New plants are transferred to the quarantine zone, and if after 10-14 days signs of disease or pest damage do not appear, the crop is transferred to the rest of the plants.


Figure 18. Options for arranging shelving in a greenhouse

The quarantine zone may be small. The optimal size is considered to be sufficient to accommodate 4 pots of seedlings. It is advisable to enclose the area with glass, for example, install an old aquarium with a tight lid on one of the shelves.

Proper division of space

When planning the division of space in a greenhouse, calculate in advance the number of crops and beds, the need for the location of equipment (heating systems, drip irrigation, etc.), and also provide space for equipment.

If crops with different requirements for temperature and humidity conditions will be grown in the same greenhouse, the internal space is divided with plastic film, glass or a piece of polycarbonate. A similar division is practiced when growing cucumbers and tomatoes at the same time.

Arrangement of the adjacent vestibule

It is advisable to build a vestibule near the entrance to the greenhouse for several reasons. Firstly, this room can be used to store equipment. Secondly, the air gap in the vestibule will create the necessary smooth transition between warm air inside the greenhouse and cool air outside.

In the vestibule you can put a cabinet or rack for storing fertilizers, fertilizers and chemicals. To prevent pets from getting inside, it is better to lock the cabinet with a key.

1. Greenhouse-house



From window frames you can build charming houses that will not only provide comfort to plants, but will also become a stunning decoration for your summer cottage.

2. Dome



A large polygonal greenhouse, the frame of which is built of wood covered with ordinary oilcloth. Despite the complexity of manufacturing, this dome-shaped structure is distinguished by its attractive appearance, stability and excellent illumination.

3. Plastic cap



A mini greenhouse that can be made from a regular plastic bottle by simply cutting off the bottom. Such a greenhouse is best suited for cucumbers and zucchini, as these plants do not tolerate transplantation well and spend a lot of effort on adaptation. At the beginning of planting, the cap should be covered with a lid; later, when the daytime temperature reaches twenty degrees, the lid should be removed, and later the bottle should be removed altogether.

4. Caskets



From four boards and a window frame you can make an original small greenhouse for flowers and plants. At first, the lid of the window frame should be kept closed, and when the plants grow and become stronger, fold it back.

5. Foldable design



A convenient, practical folding greenhouse that can be made from small-diameter PVC pipes and regular polyethylene.

6. Umbrella



A small greenhouse made from a wooden barrel and an old oilcloth umbrella or the frame of an ordinary umbrella covered with polyethylene.

7. Cozy tent



A greenhouse tent, which can be built from a children's tent, equipping its walls with inserts made of oilcloth or polyethylene, or you can buy a ready-made film greenhouse tent. The advantages of this design are its compactness and mobility.

8. Plastic house



Plastic bottles can make an excellent open or closed greenhouse. Creating such a greenhouse will not require large expenses or special skills, and you determine the size and design of the structure yourself.

9. Lifting cover



An original greenhouse with a lifting lid, made of wooden boards, thin PVC pipes, polyethylene and metal chains. This design is quite simple to construct and very convenient to use.

10. Flowerbed



A small greenhouse, to create which you will need a wooden frame of the desired size, two thin plastic pipes and a piece of oilcloth. The beauty of this design is that when the plants get stronger and the night temperature rises, the oilcloth can be easily removed and thereby turn the greenhouse into a neat flower bed.

11. Mini house



A charming greenhouse made from plastic CD boxes is perfect for growing indoor plants and will be a great decoration for your balcony.

12. Pallets



A small greenhouse can be easily built from old pallets and plastic film. This greenhouse is perfect for growing seedlings or indoor flowers.

13. Container



An ordinary plastic container will make an excellent greenhouse, which is suitable for growing seedlings on the balcony.

14. Reliable boxing

Large greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate.


A large and reliable greenhouse made of polycarbonate attached to a wooden frame, which, despite the difficulties of construction and some capital investments, is perfect for growing any crops and will last for many years.

Continuing the topic, to the attention of readers for proper disposal.

​Similar articles​

​It is prepared in the following proportion: 1 tsp of rotted humus + 1 tsp of high-quality garden or forest soil + 1 tsp of sand. This composition must be mixed and then sifted using a sieve with cells of about 8 mm. Add 100 g of ordinary chalk (which is used at school) or crushed egg shells (also 100 g) to each bucket of prepared soil. 100 g of ash is poured into the same bucket.

Differences in the purpose of a greenhouse and a greenhouse

​Use a timer and twilight sensor to extend daylight hours for plants;​

​After the roof, we fasten the walls of the shelter. Lastly, we install the ends, cut through the doors and vents. We finish the glazing by sealing all the cracks with silicone sealant or construction foam.​

​We begin assembling the frame by installing the support columns of the side and end walls, or in the case of an arched structure, installing the arches. It is better to weld the frame to the foundation guides - it will be stronger.​

​Profile pipes​

​Let’s make a reservation in advance: this article will consider the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse. Film greenhouses are built in almost the same way, but this is a topic for a separate article.​

​The pipe must be welded to the wall of the tank, which will become the future chimney. The lid, which needs to be made from the top of the cylinder, should have its edges secured. To make cleaning the oven more convenient, the outer sides should be supplemented with two studs, which will make it possible to make a base.​

Location of beds and passages

​shovel.​

​http://youtu.be/x08X1OBwfhs​

  1. Layout of beds. Option 2.​
  2. ​The arrangement of a greenhouse should include the use of its space with maximum benefit. Each option for the location of beds, paths, auxiliary structures and equipment has its own pros and cons. The choice of the optimal solution depends on the design of the structure, the type of plants grown and the capabilities of the owner.​
  3. ​After mixing the composition, be sure to steam it to destroy all excess (weeds, microbes). To do this, place a herring jar with many holes in it upside down in an iron bucket and pour 2 liters. water. Fill the bucket to the top with the prepared mixture and put it on the fire. Let it steam for about an hour and a half. Then pour the prepared soil into some container to cool and fill in the next part. This way you can prepare soil for the entire garden bed, but it is better to do this in advance, because a large greenhouse requires a lot of soil.​
  4. ​The level of the beds should be 15-30 cm above ground level;​

​Pay attention! When building a greenhouse as a “house,” be sure to measure the diagonals along the top. The deviation should not exceed 2 cm. Advice! Before installing the arches of the arched structure, draw the first and last arches on the polycarbonate with a marker. This will make it easier to make the ends.​

Height and formation of beds

​So, we build a polycarbonate greenhouse with our own hands.​

​http://youtu.be/ZPylmcmvQZ8​

​The internal structure of a greenhouse or greenhouse should provide the most favorable conditions for the development and maturation of the plant. The placement of beds, shelving, equipment and inventory is carried out taking into account creating convenience for the gardener’s work.​

The height of the beds also affects the yield. They should rise above the ground level by at least 30-60 cm. The soil at an elevation warms up faster in the spring due to the sun's rays and warm air currents. It is also more convenient to care for plants planted at this level. A thicker fertile layer promotes better plant development.​

​In a greenhouse, heating occurs naturally, but in a greenhouse you will have to build additional heating elements that must maintain a temperature of 13 to 25 ° C.​

Soil preparation ("pillow")

Soil for cucumbers can be prepared as follows:

The width of the beds in the greenhouse should not exceed 1 m;

​In general, the polycarbonate greenhouse is ready. Now all that remains is to equip it from the inside.​

​We weld the upper and lower frame trim. In an arched structure there are frame lintels. At this point, the frame of the arched structure is already ready. In other structures we make a roof.​

​Galvanized profiles​

Installing shelving in a greenhouse

​Greenhouses inside are often equipped with stoves with a heat exchanger, which also serve for irrigation. The design can be made using a pair of barrels, in the first of which combustion will take place, and the second will serve as a heat exchanger.​

​It is important to equip the greenhouse with an additional heating system if the structure is intended to be used in winter.​

​Every summer resident thinks about the question of how to equip a greenhouse.​

​If you are planning to plant seedlings of early ripening crops in a greenhouse, you need to protect the plants from lower temperatures. In this case, the height of the bed is made at least 80 cm, and fences made of boards are installed for insulation.

​Unlike a greenhouse, a greenhouse is a more permanent structure for growing lemons, tall cucumbers, tomatoes, flowers and other plants. A greenhouse is a small-sized structure, most often used for preparing seedlings that will subsequently be planted in open ground. Only early-ripening crops (radish, lettuce, etc.) undergo the entire development cycle in a greenhouse.

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Arrangement of a greenhouse and greenhouse

​Option 1: 4 hours of humus + 6 hours of loamy soil;​


​The width of the passages between the beds should be sufficient for the passage of a small wheelbarrow;​

​Arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse inside is a very important stage of its construction.​

​Before installing the rafters, you should consider the following point: if you plan to irrigate using the sprinkler method, you may need to lay transverse beams to secure the irrigation system. If the linear dimensions of the greenhouse are relatively small (up to 6 m on one side), then there is no special need for beams because Irrigation and lighting systems are mounted on cables.​

​When choosing the design of a future building, first of all you need to correctly assess your capabilities. So, for example, if you do not have access to a pipe bender and the skills to bend a profile pipe with large radius arcs, then it is better to forget about the arched and, especially, spherical design. If your budget is limited, then it is also better to immediately abandon aluminum profiles.​

To obtain a heating structure, you will need 2 barrels that have thick walls. The capacity of one barrel should be 200 liters, the second - 50 liters. Square-shaped washing machine casings are ideal for this.​

​So, if you decide to build a massive wood-burning stove, it is preferable to build it with a hog, which is a horizontal pipe with a rise. In order to build such a stove, you need to use 2 iron pipes, a couple of iron plates from stoves and about 400 pieces. stove brick.​

Tools and materials

  • ​When setting up a greenhouse, you should make two beds on the sides, and the widest one in the middle, since it will be accessible from both sides.​
  • ​The disadvantage of high beds is the need for more frequent watering; they have increased drainage properties.​
  • ​For plants that require warmer conditions for ripening, greenhouse structures with artificial heating systems are needed.​
  • Option 2: 3 parts of humus + 3 parts of peat + 4 parts of loamy soil;
  • ​When arranging irrigation, be sure to take into account that different plants “love” different types of irrigation and different amounts of water.​
  • ​It can also be broken down into several steps:​

Greenhouse heating systems

​Aluminum profiles​

​For ease of selection, we list all possible greenhouse designs:​​The top of the barrel should be cut off. From the smaller one you need to make a lid, securing the edges with reinforcement. Next, you should weld the handle and make legs from 3 corners, the length of which should be 12 cm.​

​If the arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse requires the presence of a furnace, you will first need to equip the base for it, which will be a monolithic structure. The inside of the greenhouse can be equipped with a concrete foundation, which can be replaced by two slabs firmly connected to each other, using a pipe frame as a connection.​

​Arranging a polycarbonate greenhouse inside is very important. It is not enough to choose the right material for a building. And even if you decide to use polycarbonate - a material that can create an ideal microclimate, optimal levels of humidity and temperature - there must still be the correct number of beds in the greenhouse.​

​Not only the location and height of the beds is important, but also their preservation of the given shape. To prevent the soil from crumbling, sides made of various materials are used to delimit the rows. More often, boards are used for this, but this material rots quickly and only lasts one season.​

Option 3: 2 parts humus + 1 part peat + 4 parts loamy soil + 1 part sawdust

​Heating device;​

Advice! Tighten all necessary cables and braces before starting glazing.​

​. High price. Mostly sold in sets. They do not oxidize or rot. Low availability when replacing failed parts with your own hands.​

​Single slope

Alternative stove options

​Using a grinder, you should cut a partition from a sheet of metal to mount the camera. You need to cut a 6cm hole in the center. Next, you need to insert a slightly smaller tank inside, in which you have to drill a hole equal to 6 cm. The partition should be laid in the shape of a triangle of rods. The support should have a height of 15 cm, this stand should be installed on the bottom of a larger barrel.​

​The top of the firebox should be equipped with a pair of pipes that will allow air to pass inside. The draft will be created due to the rarefied air in the greenhouse, which will be used to burn wood. It is important to ensure that the cleaning door is tightly closed. From the greenhouse, air will pass into the blower chamber through side pipes that will connect to the channels; air will enter the latter through the air intake, warming the soil in the beds located on the sides.​

​After all, an excess of them can cause negative mutual influence of plants, and a deficiency will make the greenhouse a structure that takes up extra space on the site and does not use its full potential. So, as a rule, there are two beds in a greenhouse, and the path left between them should be such that a wheelbarrow could be driven along it. If you can fit three beds in a greenhouse or greenhouse, the middle one should be the widest, since it will have two-way access.​

​In the factory version, the sides are made of aluminum. They are sometimes included with the purchased prefabricated greenhouse. They can last for several decades. For these purposes, slate and metal profiles are also used, and old car tires are used.​

​It is necessary to arrange the inside of the greenhouse taking into account the purpose of its use. The room can be planned for growing vegetables in the ground or preparing seedlings on shelves or in pots. It can reach three or more meters in height.​

Furnace with heat exchanger

​It is advisable to steam the finished mixture as described above.​

​We hope that our article will help you successfully build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands.​

​Lighting production;​

​We weld the roof rafters and weld in the necessary spacers. The installation of rafters should begin with the two outermost ones. Then a thread is stretched between them to control the height of the others. The installation pitch of the rafters under the polycarbonate roof is 60 cm.​

​A lot depends on the correct choice of location for the greenhouse. This includes the amount of light and heat that the plants will receive, the ease of movement between the house and the greenhouse, the ease of supplying water and electricity, and much more.​

- usually this form is used in wall-mounted greenhouses;

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Building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands: useful tips and tricks

​http://youtu.be/c_loKQRz9VY​


​A water tank should be placed above the firebox, which will ensure the availability of warm water in early spring, which can be used for irrigation, and on hot days this water will become a source of additional moisture for peppers and cucumbers. This stove is serviced from the street.​

We build a greenhouse from start to finish

​The best height of the beds - from 30 to 60 cm - will allow the soil to warm up quite quickly.​

  • ​You can purchase frame borders made of galvanized iron or polycarbonate in gardening stores. These are collapsible devices, covered with a special polymer coating and are rust-proof during long-term use. For low embankments, soft strip borders are used. They are cheap, practical to use and create a pleasant appearance in a variety of colors.​
  • ​The greenhouse cover usually rises above the ground by no more than 1.5 m. Another difference between a greenhouse is that it is heated naturally: by the sun's rays and the heat generated by the oxidation of plant residues and manure. Setting up a greenhouse is much easier than setting up a greenhouse. There are no special differences in the formation of beds and the location of passages in both structures.​
  • ​It is better to grow vegetables of the same family in greenhouses, because they require similar conditions for their care. If you plant cucumbers and tomatoes together, then in different parts of the greenhouse and create an insulating partition in the middle.​
  • ​Are you happy that your beloved husband finally built a greenhouse (or installed a ready-made one)? Wait. A beautiful cap does not mean that the plants under it will “overwhelm” you with an unprecedented harvest. To do this, a lot still needs to be done inside the structure: create an optimal regime, correctly position the beds, “prepare” the soil, etc. In a word, arrange the inside of the greenhouse. And this is what you and I will do.​
  • ​Arrangement of beds;​
  • ​Pay attention! It is very important to maintain the 2.1 m size between every fourth rafters - polycarbonate will be joined on these rafters.​

​The greenhouse is best placed in a well-lit place, with one of the long sides facing south. It is advisable to have bushes or other buildings near the north side for protection from the wind. Proximity to a garden, running water and electricity is also of no small importance.​

​Gable​

​Under the partition you need to make a box necessary for collecting combustion products. For a box in the wall of a larger tank, you need to cut a hole 30x13 cm. You need to weld the box to the hole, and weld a pipe into its central part. Arranging a greenhouse with such a design will not only heat it, but also provide watering.​

Choosing the design and materials for the building

​The greenhouse can be equipped with another version of the stove, which will operate on wood and wood chips. This design includes a fuel compartment, above which there is a second bottom, a hole with a door, and also a blower. The stove has a lid and a chimney with a valve. You can load fuel into the stove to 2/3 of the volume of the firebox. In order to equip a greenhouse with such a stove, you should use a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 40 cm.​

  • ​The “cushion” soil is laid in three layers, the first is wood chips, then food waste (vegetable peelings) and lastly sawdust.​ ​It is more practical to select the design of a greenhouse or hotbed based on the types and number of plants intended to be grown. But if you have already built a structure or it is of a standard shape, then the beds in it will have to be adapted to the existing conditions.​
  • The earth is poured onto the beds in a layer of about 25 cm so that it gradually settles to 20 cm.​The arrangement of the interior space will depend on how the owner plans to use her greenhouse: to lay out beds and grow vegetables or put up shelving and grow seedlings, potted plants, ornamental shrubs, etc. Based on this, greenhouse structures are divided into ground and shelved . Let's look at how to arrange a greenhouse of one and two types inside.
  • ​Irrigation device.​​So, the frame is ready. Before starting glazing, it must be painted with oil paint in 2-3 layers so that the pipe does not oxidize. Happy owners of sets made of aluminum and galvanized profiles are spared this need.​
  • ​, or standard “house” - the most common form of buildings;​

​Building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is, in general, not difficult if you have basic construction skills. But what to do if you have the skills, but have never had to build greenhouses? Then our tips on building a polycarbonate greenhouse will help you.​

  • ​It will be used to make a fuel tank, and when installing a chimney, a 10 cm pipe should be used. Next, you can prepare black tin or sheet steel, the thickness of which should be 5 mm or more. The next step will be the manufacture of a fuel tank, for this you need to cut a hole in the upper part of the pipe, the diameter of which should be equal to 10 cm. In order to eliminate the flow of dirt from the beds onto the path, you should install curbs, which can be tiles, edges stones or boards. Racks and shelves will help you use free space as economically as possible. They are installed in polycarbonate greenhouses using metal or wood; the metal must first be painted, and the wood must be treated with antiseptics, which will help protect the materials from moisture.​

​To speed up the growth of plants, the beds in the greenhouse are “insulated” by equipping a kind of “cushion”. It is an organic mass that releases heat during decomposition. Horse manure has the best heat release properties.​

  • ​There are several options for arranging beds, from which the gardener must choose the most suitable one for his greenhouse or greenhouse and the plants being planted.​ ​For summer residents who plan to grow seedlings or seedlings, a rack-type design is suitable. Such a greenhouse is equipped to the maximum inside; all possible free space in several rows is occupied by shelves and racks. It is convenient to place household equipment under multi-story structures. If the owner is engaged in growing potted plants and indoor flowers, then it is better to create racks with low sides (it is easier to install capillary irrigation pipes to them). For picking seedlings or rooting cuttings, you need high sides.​
  • ​In a ground greenhouse, the first thing to do is plan the beds: how many there will be, what size they will be, and what you plan to grow.​ ​All steps must be performed in exactly this order, otherwise you will have to redo a lot. For example, the construction of beds in a polycarbonate greenhouse cannot be done before the heating and lighting systems are manufactured, and watering (especially drip irrigation) must be arranged after the beds are ready.​
  • ​Assembling the frame by welding​​Since we are building a greenhouse from polycarbonate, when choosing the size of the building we should focus on the size of the sheets. Typically, cellular polycarbonate is supplied in sheets measuring 2.1 x 6.0 m. Sheets 12m long are less common. This means that when building a greenhouse (especially for an arched structure), its length must be a multiple of 2.1 m.​

Choosing a place for construction and the size of the building

​Arched​


​If we talk about the greenhouse heating system, most work on solar heating, but sometimes stove heating is also necessary (for greenhouses used in industry). The mentioned heating option can be replaced with a heated floor system, which will save space.​

Components such as finely chopped wood chips, food waste (potato peels, peelings of other vegetables, etc.) and sawdust are used to make the “pillow.” The composition is laid in three layers in the order listed.​

Setting up the foundation

Layout of beds. Option 1.​


​In the photo of the greenhouse inside you can see examples of different shelving arrangements. This is because each owner adjusts their height to his own height. Therefore, the general rule for shelving structures is only the width: it should not exceed 95 cm if it is located against the wall, and 1.5 m if it is in the center. Shelves of greater width are inconvenient, since you cannot reach the outermost plants.​

​Based on the size of the greenhouse, you can divide the land into 2-3 beds. The maximum width of one bed is 1.2 m. With this width it is convenient to care for plants while standing on the path. If the bed is wider, then in order to reach distant plants, you will be forced to step on the soil, thereby compacting it. And neither you (you will have to move the soil more often) nor the plants need compaction (air circulation in the soil layer worsens, and the roots lack oxygen). Therefore, plan the bed based on your own height: if you can reach within a meter radius with a hoe, make the bed one meter long. If you reach less, do less.​

​The internal structure of a polycarbonate greenhouse is a topic for a separate article.​

​Cut the necessary fragments from the sheets. It is better to cut the fragments with a margin of 1-2 cm; if necessary, they will be trimmed, and if there is not enough material, it will be a shame.​

Assembling the frame

​Pay attention! Polycarbonate bends only to a certain radius, which depends on its thickness. Therefore, when calculating the dimensions of an arched structure, pay special attention to this.​

​– a convenient form for quick construction of greenhouses and reducing the amount of polycarbonate trimmings;​

​In general, the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse consists of the following steps:​

​After this, you can make the bottom of the stove, for which you need to cut a circle out of steel so that it has the same diameter as the firebox. In order to maintain the dimensions, you should make markings by placing the pipe on a sheet and circling it with a marker. The circle can be obtained using a grinder. In the central part of the circle you need to make a hole of 8 cm. The next step is to cut approximately 50 longitudinal lines in the pipe, the diameter of which can vary from 0.8 to 1 mm.​

​boards;​

The soil of the greenhouse must be fertilized, retain water well and be free from insect pests. The prepared soil composition can be purchased at a specialized store or prepared independently. To do this, mix garden soil, river sand, humus and peat in a ratio of 1:1:2:5. To improve the quality of the greenhouse soil, this mixture is added to the soil at a rate of 3 kg/m3

​In narrow and long greenhouses, beds about 1 m wide are placed on the sides, leaving a convenient passage for caring for plants. If the transverse size of the room does not allow making the paths in the greenhouse comfortable enough, it is better to sacrifice the width of the beds. Even if there is not enough space for the third row of beds in the greenhouse, the first two can compensate for this with a larger harvest. With less shading of plants, they will receive a larger portion of light.​

​And choose the height this way: measure the height of the work surfaces in the kitchen. If you are comfortable cooking food at such a height, then it will also be okay to tinker with plants. The greenhouse can have shelves at a different height, because the space up to the ceiling allows you to place several rows. But the row where you will move the plants, replant, etc. must correspond to your height, otherwise back problems will not be avoided.​

​In small greenhouses, two beds are arranged along the length of the structure, and a path is left in the middle. The minimum width of the path is half a meter. This is enough to transport crops and weeds in a wheelbarrow, carry water in buckets without clinging to the plants. You can, of course, make a meter-long one, but then a lot of useful space will disappear. Try not to go beyond 50-70 cm.​

We make glazing

A greenhouse made of polycarbonate is a fairly light structure, so it does not require a massive foundation. After marking, we dig trenches 40-45 cm deep and 25-30 cm wide. The formwork for pouring should be raised above ground level by 30-50 cm.​


​Polygonal​

​Choice of building design;​

​Then you can insert the pipe into the bottom of the furnace and weld the elements. Next, you need to make covers from steel; this element can have a round or polygonal shape. At its central point, a hole should be made equal to the diameter of the pipe so that the roof can fit flush onto the pipe. Then you need to make another hole, placing it closer to the edge, which will ensure oxygen enters the oven.​

​pipes;​

Another composition that increases the nutritional properties of the soil is mixed from straw cuttings, manure and decomposed peat (1: 1: 2). 2 kg of sodium chloride, 3 kg of superphosphate and 300 g of urea per 1 m3 are also added to the mixture. The resulting fertilizer is poured in a layer of up to 18 cm, then garden soil is added until the height of the bed reaches 25 cm. Before planting seedlings, you can additionally fertilize the soil with superphosphate (30 g/m3) and sodium sulfate 20 g/m3.​

​Three beds with two aisles. A more convenient option for processing the outer rows, but inside the greenhouse, the paths take up even more space. The middle row can be made 1.5 m wide, the side rows - no less than 45 cm and no more than 95 cm. The width of the passage should be at least 60 cm, it is better to pave it with boards or bricks.​

​There can be 1 or 2 passages. The width depends on whether you will walk in the greenhouse with a wheelbarrow or not. For walking, 40 cm is enough, for a wheelbarrow - at least half a meter.​


​If width allows, divide the space into three beds. At the same time, maintain the proportions: near the walls of the greenhouse, the beds should not be more than a meter wide, and the central one can be made one and a half meters wide. There will be passages on both sides of it, so you can reach the plants in any case. The passages can be made the same, half a meter each, but then a whole meter of area is “wasted.” If you make it narrow, you won’t be able to squeeze through with a wheelbarrow. Make a compromise: make one passage (closer to the exit) large, and the second narrow, only for walking. To make it convenient to transfer weeds to the wheelbarrow from any corner, make 1-2 transverse passes in the central bed. To do this, place a board or a couple of bricks directly on the soil.​

​It is better to place the heating boiler inside, and the fuel tank outside the room;​

Setting up a greenhouse inside

Advice! First draw the cutting of the sheets on paper.​

  • ​– more suitable for winter gardens and greenhouses.​
  • ​Choosing a site for construction;​
  • ​Then you should make a damper, for which you will need to equip the metal lid for rolling up glass jars with a pair of handle-brackets for convenience, using ordinary metal rods. Now you can begin installing the chimney; to do this, you need to connect the pipe and the pipe with a clamp, and the pipe itself should be welded to the upper side element of the stove.​
  • ​slab;​

​http://youtu.be/UPt9rBIbW-4​

​A wide bed in the middle and two narrow ones at the edges. This placement increases the usable area compared to the previous option, but the greenhouse or hotbed in this case must have a larger width.​

​To germinate seeds, a small area with lighting is equipped in one corner and insulated with glass.​

  • ​Convenient arrangement of a greenhouse inside is impossible without creating reliable passages. An increased level of humidity affects the paths: drops of moisture will make them slippery. And if you leave the passages earthen, then when watering there will be puddles on them, which is also inconvenient. Therefore, the coating for the paths must be selected in a way that will not slip even when wet. For example, a convenient option would be brick, cut into pieces and laid flat.​
  • ​All heating pipes must pass above ground level;​
  • ​Before installing the polycarbonate, be sure to seal the ends with special tape. It is sold with it.​
  • ​We reinforce the concrete with a three-layer mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. The mesh cell dimensions are 15 cm. We pour concrete along the edges of the formwork, tamp it with an internal vibrator or just a shovel. After the concrete has hardened (from a week to two, depending on the weather), the foundation is ready.​
  • The following types are used as materials for the frame of polycarbonate greenhouses:
  • ​Foundation construction;​
  • The chimney must be placed on the pipe, sealing the joints with a heat insulator. In the upper part it is necessary to tighten it with a strip of metal. In a greenhouse, such a stove should be installed on a support made of a metal profile. 3-4 metal profiles need to be welded to the structure.​
  • ​brick;​
  • ​If a polycarbonate greenhouse is planned to be used for growing and storing seedlings, shelving will be installed inside the building. This type of room arrangement is also done for flower gardens and growing potted plants. Multi-tiered shelving allows you to save useful space in the structure. Hard-to-reach upper and lower tiers are used for storing household equipment.​
  • ​Pyramid beds. Low-growing plants with root systems located close to the surface are planted at different levels. More often, this placement is used for growing strawberries and wild strawberries.​

​In rack greenhouses it is worth setting aside space for plants that you will isolate from the rest for a while. This is especially true for indoor plants. The purchased “newbie” is not placed with everyone else, because there is no guarantee that the plant is not sick or the soil is not contaminated with pest eggs. Therefore, it is necessary to wait a certain period of time after placing the flower in the quarantine zone. This should be a small area on a shelf that can accommodate 1-2 potted plants, fenced on all sides with glass. An ordinary 100 liter aquarium is very convenient for this purpose. Be sure to place it in the most shaded area so that the plants do not burn from the heat. The top of the aquarium should be tightly closed with a lid. Sometimes you will have to ventilate the quarantine zone. At this time, it is better to remove the aquarium from the greenhouse to exclude the possibility of infection.​

​If you have already decided on a greenhouse, then the beds must be created in such a way that the soil is excellent, the water does not stand, and frost cannot reach the seedlings through the ground. Only raised beds have these qualities, the minimum height of which from the ground surface is 20 cm. How to make them?​

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​Before winter it is necessary to pressure test the heating system;​

Video of construction and arrangement of a greenhouse with your own hands

​Pay attention! One of the ends should be sealed with perforated tape.​

Organization of space in soil-type greenhouses

Laying out the beds

​Tree​

​Assembling the frame;​

Selecting track surfaces

​cement;​

Creating a soil layer

The height of the shelving is decided by the gardener based on his own convenience. The recommended width of the shelves is up to 90 cm. When the rack is located between two tracks - up to 150 cm. It is important to ensure the stability of the structures and the safety of the tracks.​

​Landing across a slope. If the greenhouse soil has a slope, the beds are arranged in a transverse direction. This arrangement is effective due to the uniform incidence of sunlight on the plants.​

​After a couple of weeks, the pot is taken out and placed on a common rack.​

Soil for tomatoes and peppers

​On the sides of the paths it is necessary to make a fence from boards, the width of which is 25 cm. It will serve as a border for the soil, will not allow it to crumble, and it is more convenient to care for the raised bed. The boards are placed on edge, pegs are driven in nearby, which will hold the curb in a vertical position, preventing it from moving under the pressure of the bulk earth. You can nail the boards to the support, or you can drive pegs on both sides of the board.​

​For lighting it is best to use special lamps (sodium, high pressure);​

Soil for cucumbers and zucchini

​We screw the polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame. You should start from the roof and from one end to the other. To connect the sheets together, be sure to use a special connecting profile.​

  • ​Pay attention! For the convenience of further construction, the frame guides should be immediately concreted into the foundation. A layer of waterproofing must be laid on top of the foundation.​
  • ​. More suitable for temporary shelters due to rapid rotting. High availability. Minimum price.​
  • ​Glazing;​

​Setting up a greenhouse may involve installing a sawdust stove, which will be an extremely profitable option since fuel is a cheap material and because the stove can be easily made from what is available, such as pipes, barrels and gas cylinders. The last option will also be the most convenient, since a conical pipe will not be required to put fuel into the cylinder, and cleaning the stove from combustion products will be more convenient. In order to equip a stove inside a greenhouse, you should use a gas cylinder whose walls are 5 m.​

​sand;​

​A separate quarantine zone is set up in the rack greenhouse. Only received plants are placed in it for up to 2 weeks. Seedlings are observed to identify diseases and determine the “purity” of the soil. For quarantine, a small area of ​​the rack is allocated for several pots. The plants are hermetically sealed with glass; you can use an old aquarium for this.​

Organization of space inside a rack greenhouse

​In small greenhouses, two beds with one aisle are usually arranged. The width of the path should ensure free movement of the wheelbarrow. If the plants being grown are not tall, the beds are traditionally directed from north to south. Tall crops are planted in rows from east to west. With this direction, the low morning rays of the sun penetrate through the rows and illuminate the bushes evenly.​

We place the racks correctly

​If you attach a small vestibule to the greenhouse, it will act as an air gap between the air from the street and the greenhouse air, and the place where equipment is stored. Place a cabinet there that can be locked with a key, and hide liquid fertilizers, preparations for exterminating pests, etc. This way you isolate harmful “chemicals” from children and pets. The cabinet can also be placed under the shelves if a vestibule is not provided.​

​Now all that remains is to fill the bed with soil. Light greenhouses are suitable for greenhouses, with good soil ventilation, which do not contain weed seeds and harmful bacteria, but contain many useful substances. The most convenient option would be purchased soil. You will immediately buy it for the type of vegetables that will sit in the garden. If this option is expensive, prepare the soil yourself, deciding in advance which vegetable will grow where. For different types of plants, the soil mixture should be different.

​All electrical connections must be sealed;​

​Pay attention! To prevent the self-tapping screws from pushing through the polycarbonate, use special washers.​

Construction of a quarantine zone

​The frame is the main part of the greenhouse. A lot, if not everything, depends on its strength and stability. Therefore, you need to be very careful in assembling it.​

Arrangement of the vestibule

​Interior arrangement.​

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​To begin with, you should cut off the top of the balloon, from which you can later make a lid. In the upper part you need to cut a 10 cm hole necessary for installing the pipe, the lower part needs to be equipped with a hole whose diameter is 5 cm. It is also necessary to strengthen the perforated pipe here. The top should be hermetically sealed.​

The arrangement of the greenhouse inside is of great importance for a good result. After all, in order to achieve an excellent harvest, you need to not only monitor the condition of the beds and the time of planting fruits. Creating the right greenhouse conditions is an important step for obtaining a constant harvest. The interior arrangement of a greenhouse takes time. You need to know how to properly water the plants, heat them, at what distance the beds should be, and much more. Proper layout in a greenhouse will greatly simplify working with plants.

How to arrange a greenhouse inside, where to start? Correctly located beds will help to equip the greenhouse in the right way; an example is shown in the photo. Many people think that the beds can be arranged in any way, as long as it is beautiful and comfortable for the gardener to collect the fruits. But this is a general misconception. If the beds are arranged haphazardly, the crop may not grow at all.

Doctor of Agricultural Sciences J. Mittleider proposed a convenient way to arrange the inside of a greenhouse. For optimal growth and development of plants, there should be 90 cm to pass around the created bed. The width between the beds is 45 cm. This distance allows the plants to receive as much air and light as they need for their rapid and proper maturation.

There is another option for designing beds. The beds can be beautifully arranged according to the cardinal directions. Many gardeners place their beds from north to south, which is correct. But it turns out that this placement is not suitable for all plants. The location of the beds from west to east is the most advantageous arrangement. In this case, ultraviolet rays completely illuminate the plants from morning to evening, which gives them the opportunity to develop much faster.

What paths to make

After all the issues with the beds have been resolved, you need to install the paths correctly. The paths can be placed either in the center or parallel to the beds.

How to make a path in the center:

  • if the greenhouse is small, then simply measure the distance from one end of the greenhouse to the other, and give a path in the center;
  • if the passage is laid in the center, accordingly, the beds will be located on the sides;
  • The width of the central aisle must be at least 50 cm.

Principles for creating parallel tracks:

  1. It is recommended to make parallel paths from gravel or brick. This is done specifically so that the material does not slip.
  2. For large greenhouses, it is recommended to make parallel paths. The main thing is to create several tracks. And the beds will look beautiful between the paths.

During harvesting, very often soil falls from the beds onto the paths. Accordingly, to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to fence the paths. There are many ways to fence paths. But the simplest and most convenient is fencing with boards. Before placing the boards, they are treated with special products that protect the wood from fungi and rot. The height of the boards should be 3 cm above the ground level.

We do ventilation and heating

Almost all greenhouse buildings have doors and vents. This means that ventilation can be carried out independently. The main thing is to open and close windows and doors in a timely manner. This option is suitable for those who do not want to spend money on purchasing special devices for ventilation of greenhouses. There will be expenses only for the purchase of a thermometer to determine temperature and a device to detect air humidity. However, if it is difficult for you to constantly check the condition of the greenhouse, you will have to install an automated system.

It is very easy to install an automation system in a greenhouse. Moreover, for each cultivated crop it becomes possible to adjust the microclimate that it needs for proper cultivation.

The following automated ventilation systems exist:

  • bimetallic system - based on the work of two metals, which differ in dissimilar expansion coefficients;
  • electrical installations - devices that we use often in everyday life;
  • ventilation using hydraulics is a very convenient device; special levers are installed at the top of the greenhouse, which are connected to the greenhouse vents; the operating principle is simple: when the temperature rises, the levers open; when the temperature drops, the vent closes under the action of the levers.

If the greenhouse is made of polycarbonate, then heating is carried out under the influence of sunlight. But in cold weather, when there is no sun, the greenhouse is not heated. Then you have to resort to stove heating. One of the effective heating options is installing underfloor heating. Creating such a floor will not only heat the greenhouse from the inside, but will also help create favorable heating of the beds.

How to arrange shelving

The interior arrangement can be diversified with shelves. It is very convenient to grow plants on shelves. They help save space and look aesthetically pleasing. Productivity will noticeably improve if you place several tiers in the greenhouse at once. However, to install the shelving, you need to prepare the greenhouse. First of all, you need to make the floor. It must be strong, durable and able to withstand heavy weight. Before installing shelving, the floor must be level. You can fill it with concrete, lay it out with tiles or bricks. After the floor is done, shelving can be installed. The legs of the structure can be concreted into the floor for greater reliability.

Shelves can be made of wood. But you should know that it must first be lubricated with special solutions. The shelving should not be too high, otherwise the light will not reach other plants. The racks should be conveniently located, approximately at human eye level.

Thus, there are many options for how to arrange a greenhouse inside; examples can be seen in the photo.

How to make beds in a greenhouse (video)

Gallery: arrangement of greenhouses inside (15 photos)

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50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.


Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid


How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground
(Shockingly simple way!!!)

The method is that we place PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season)

Click on the photo to enlarge




How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

A very simple greenhouse design. Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also work. The branches are tied together with nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give it an arched shape. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step-by-step photos; to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.


DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

  • 2 photos - we cut out square holes with a jigsaw in 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
  • 3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
  • 4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
  • 5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
  • 7-12 photos we attach the film.
  • 14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted green to blend in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when there is a need to cover some weak plants during a cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

A very interesting and simple design for automatically opening the window depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that with a minimum amount of water in it, the window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. Due to atmospheric pressure, water moves into a small jar, opening the window


A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to a new house, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from a glass door (double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. Everything is very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

In summer, in hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! An important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof should be made folding (lifting upward), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap, all the warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: the optimal slope of the roof slope of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) is φ, where φ is the geographic latitude of the location; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables in early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and a glass cover. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and there must also be a mechanism was made to fix the open lid at different angles (see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its design, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, five crops: spinach, green onions, mâché, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnip.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When sunlight enters such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up. and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the process of seedling ripening.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden gratings


The advantages of such a greenhouse:

  • - quickly erected
  • - stable
  • - easy to manufacture

Minuses:

Not suitable for tall plants, but can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuel

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are rotating flat screens painted white, which allow maximum use of solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: You can use any flat panels covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of a frame around the perimeter of the greenhouse made of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The northern side of the frame should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the trim to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls do not need to be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be covered with wooden shields, making approaches easier.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower sashes.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow manure.. Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket of hot water into each, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made of 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits with a clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. Soil is poured on top of the heated manure - garden or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?