Sauna stove - design, materials, drawings, homemade production. Metal sauna stove: relevance of the topic Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove for a Russian bath

A do-it-yourself sauna stove is made in cases where industrially produced devices do not suit the homeowner in some way. The thing is that a bathhouse is characterized by the creation of a unique microclimate, since it maintains a strictly defined indicator of humidity and temperature, depending on the type of steam room. The steam room can have a wide variety of configurations, sizes and arrangement of shelves. As a result, store-bought stoves do not always heat the stove efficiently, and you have to make the necessary structure yourself.

Requirements for homemade sauna stoves

In any case, homemade sauna stoves must meet certain requirements. For example, they must be absolutely safe in terms of fire. This is especially important when a home-made iron sauna stove is installed in rooms with wooden walls. At the same time, they must maintain a comfortable temperature level in your bath.

In addition, there are purely technical issues that any oven must withstand. Firstly, according to the general requirement of sauna art, in order to create light and pleasant steam, it is necessary that the stones in the stove heat up to 200-700 °C. To do this, it is necessary to properly equip the firebox and chimney.

If the sauna stove is properly welded or laid out, it will maintain a temperature near the floor of 40-45 °C and under the shelf of 90-100 °C during steaming and washing. This heat will allow the steamer to stay in the bathhouse for a long time without any damage to his health. In this case, the heat must remain in the stove for at least 3 hours from the moment the fuel supply to it ends.

Secondly, it must be equipped with an effective system for removing carbon monoxide, smoke and other combustion products. Otherwise, instead of receiving pleasure, steamers face serious harm to health, and even death from suffocation. The ventilation system and chimney can be either natural or powered by a blower.

Thirdly, you need to choose the right place to install the stove. So, for example, installing a stove in a bathhouse built with your own hands is carried out exclusively on a specially built foundation. This protects the bathhouse from fire and allows you to build a lighter foundation structure for its walls and other structural elements.

A metal welded stove must also be installed in accordance with special requirements; for example, in order to protect the building from fire, it is sometimes lined with bricks. In the case where this cannot be done, it is necessary to install it at some distance from the walls, and place a thick sheet of asbestos on the floor under it.

Optimal technical parameters of homemade sauna stoves

Made with your own hands, it must also meet some optimal technical parameters. For example, it must have a sufficiently high heat transfer power, since with its help the air and stones are heated for steam generation in the steam room, and in addition, also the air in adjacent rooms. For normal functioning of the bath complex, the stove power must be at least 28 kW.

The design of the stove must be adapted to the room in which it will be placed. For example, there are designs with open and closed heaters, as well as entire steam generators, which require a large area for their placement.

Most technical parameters of furnaces directly affect fuel consumption and, accordingly, the price for it.

In addition, all home-made stoves must be designed and assembled taking into account the characteristics of the floor or foundation of both the stove, in the case of its construction, and the entire building. The fact is that if, for example, you weld a massive metal stove, then the floor of the bathhouse may simply not support it, but you also need to take into account the weight of the fuel loaded into it.

Thus, when planning to make a stove for a steam room yourself, you will first need to make calculations and find out whether your design can, in principle, be placed in a bathhouse. Next, you need to draw up a construction plan or, better yet, a project. By adhering to them, you will be able to optimally equip your bathhouse, ensuring its efficient heating.

Types of stoves for baths

If you are planning to make such a device yourself, you should select drawings for this taking into account the material from which you plan to make it, as well as the type of fuel with which you are going to heat the bathhouse. The following designs are currently popular:

• metal;
• brick.

Depending on the type of fuel used, stoves for a sauna complex can be divided into several categories:

• wood and coal fired stoves;
• furnaces operating using gas as fuel;
• electric stoves for baths.

If you know how to weld a sauna stove with your own hands, you should also have an idea about the advantages of this design.

For example, metal stoves are resistant to even serious mechanical damage, heat up quickly and have a long service life. At the same time, among metal stoves, cast iron products are most in demand, since they do not deform under the influence of heat and retain heat for a long time. In everyday life, they are most often made of stainless steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm.

The disadvantage of metal stoves is their high fire hazard, since at high temperatures the metal becomes hot, and if flammable material gets on it, a fire may occur. Stone stoves are free from this drawback, but they are expensive, afraid of mechanical damage, and not every stove maker can now put them together.

As for fuel, most stoves for country baths are powered by wood. In this case, not only the firewood itself is used, but also wood waste and pellets. The advantages of such systems include: efficiency, low fuel cost, independence from electrical wiring and gas pipelines.

It is also worth noting such a circumstance as the unique atmosphere created during the holiday. The disadvantages of wood-burning stoves include the following points: long heating of the premises and the stove itself, the need to frequently clean the chimney, as well as the obligation of the bathhouse owner to always keep and replenish the supply of firewood.

In turn, they can work fully automatically, without human intervention. They begin to work from the moment the electricity is turned on or the gas is ignited in the firebox. As a result, the steam room is prepared for steaming in literally 10-15 minutes. At the same time, these types of sauna stoves require high-quality and efficient ventilation. In addition, bathhouse experts note the fact that gas will cost more than firewood, and electricity will be cheaper.

Making a homemade metal stove

A do-it-yourself bathhouse stove made of iron is made in accordance with standard drawings, which can be quite easily found on the Internet. First, you will need to select the material and tools necessary for the work. In this case, you will perform almost all operations on assembling the stove using a welding machine and an angle grinder.

As for the material, you will need a metal sheet, preferably chrome-plated, with a thickness of at least 5 mm. He'll go to the ash pit. You can use such a sheet and at the same time a metal corner, 3-5 mm thick, on the stove frame.

To make the firebox and the bottom of the water tank, you will have to prepare thicker material - 7-10 mm. You will also need metal pipes of different diameters for arranging the chimney and stove piping system. But the doors for the firebox will need to be purchased ready-made at a construction and household goods store. It is best if they are made of cast iron, but if necessary, you can weld them yourself from the remains of a thick-walled pipeline.

You can also buy a mesh for stones, but in any case, fittings and shut-off valves, as well as grate bars, will have to be purchased, since it will not be possible to make these elements yourself. They are inexpensive, so you can buy them quite easily.

After the material has been prepared, you can begin assembling the furnace. To do this, take a drawing and, based on it, begin to cut out blanks using an angle grinder and weld them together. In this case, special attention should be paid to the assembly of the chimney and firebox as the most critical sections of the entire structure.

Separately, it is worth noting the fact that when the question arises of how to make a stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, people always wonder whether the metal structure needs to be covered with bricks? This decision is opposed by the possible excessive consumption of fuel, because the furnace, in addition to metal, will also have to heat the brick. However, everything can be compensated by the beautiful appearance of your steam room and the unique microclimate created in the room by the heated brick.

Homemade stone oven

The second popular option for heating a bath, along with metal products, is a stone stove. The fact is that a heater stove for a bath, built with your own hands, forms a unique Russian design in the steam room. In addition, a stone stove generates high-quality heat and air in the bathhouse, and therefore will not have any foreign odors or inclusions.

The construction of such a heating system begins with laying the foundation. Usually a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm, and its bottom is lined with a mixture of sand and crushed stone. Then broken brick is added, water is poured on it and the reinforcement is laid after it has dried, after which the pit is filled with concrete.

In this case, before pouring begins, formwork is installed, protruding 15 cm above the ground. After the filling procedure is completed, it is removed, and you have a finished foundation at your disposal. For waterproofing purposes, its sides are coated with several layers of tar, and the free space between its walls and the ground is filled with fine gravel and coarse sand.

A brick sauna stove, built with your own hands, is a rather complex structure, therefore, if you do not have the skills to lay stoves, then you should entrust such work to an experienced stove maker. In the same case, when your knowledge is quite sufficient for laying this structure, you will need to start laying the walls of the furnace. In this case, you should be guided by a pre-prepared scheme that can be found on the Internet.

When laying masonry into a solid wall, doors for the heater and firebox are installed. Through them the stove will be loaded with fuel, and it will be possible to supply water to the heater. Next, a grate is installed above the combustion chamber, with gaps of 5 mm on each side, taking into account thermal expansion. A pre-prepared tank for storing water is also installed above the heater; it can be purchased ready-made, or you can weld it yourself from thick-walled metal.

In any case, the masonry must begin from the door in order to be well strengthened in the wall mass. While working, constantly check the evenness of the masonry using a level and plumb line. The fact is that to create a strong structure, the masonry must be perfectly level, and the vertical seam between the bricks must be overlapped by the bricks of the next row.

There are several elements of stone ovens that must be completed. So this is a chamber for heating stones, a chimney, as well as a compartment for storing firewood or a firebox. Each of the oven elements has its own nuances in the layout. For example, a gap must be left between the boiler and the walls of the furnace for the rapid passage of hot gases and heating of water. There should also be a gap of thirteen centimeters between the roof sheathing and the pipe to avoid fire.

Particular attention will need to be paid to the arrangement of the chimney, since if it is not installed correctly, carbon monoxide may remain in the bathhouse. As a result, steamers can get poisoned or even die while taking bath procedures.

The laying out of the furnace is completed with finishing work. To do this, you can plaster it, or you can leave the wall as is, in its natural form, simply by covering the brick with heat-resistant varnish. As a result, you will receive an original interior design for your steam room.

Many bathhouse owners are thinking about how to make a stove for it themselves. This solution has many advantages, including savings, the ability to make a product with the required dimensions, and high quality of the oven. However, there are a few things to consider before you start making your own.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse and a sauna are far from the same thing, so the stoves for them will be completely different. If in a sauna it is necessary to create a high temperature, and the heat should be hard and dry, then in a bath the opposite is true. The temperature also remains high, but due to the high humidity, the heat turns out to be soft and the temperature is practically not felt. Such procedures are useful for both physical and mental well-being.

Most baths are made of wood, and the type of stove that will be installed there also depends on this. For example, oak baths are designed to create high temperatures, and brick ovens are most often built there.

Linden buildings are extremely rare due to the fact that linden wood is a scarce product, and few people can afford such construction. The stoves here should not be very powerful. The heat should not be strong, since linden baths are classified as light. Of course, the simplest solution is to buy a ready-made stove designed for a certain area of ​​the bathhouse. However, many refuse this decision.

Firstly, you don’t want to overpay. Indeed, a high-quality hand-built stove costs two to three times less than the same option from a reputable manufacturer. Secondly, a stove built with one’s own hands allows the master to express himself. Thirdly, such a design can be made of any size and configuration so that it fits perfectly into your bathhouse. Stoves made to order according to personal measurements are very expensive, so it is much easier to make a stove yourself.

Pros and cons of homemade structures

Making your own stove structure has both its advantages and disadvantages. It is necessary to take both of them into account in order to soberly assess your strengths and understand whether it is worth undertaking independent production or whether it is better not to save money and order a ready-made solution.

So, the advantages include the following provisions:

• Attractive appearance, which can be varied at will. Those who have experience in welding, as well as in everything related to making things on their own, can make a truly unique design that is not inferior in beauty to factory-made analogues.
• Economical. Homemade baths, arranged in the correct way, are not inferior to factory ones in terms of saving fuel or electricity, if this option is chosen.
• High performance. A properly designed and built sauna stove is highly efficient, so no heat is wasted - everything is transferred to the steam room.

• Easy to maintain. Homemade stoves are easier to maintain because the person building them knows where everything is, which areas need to be cleaned more thoroughly, and which areas can only be lightly swept.
• Durability. Like factory stoves, home-made stoves last for many years, and if we are talking about brick stoves, they can last for several decades.
• Space saving. Thanks to the variability of the parameters, it becomes possible to rationally fit the stove structure into the bathhouse, without leaving too large gaps or taking up an unreasonably large amount of space.

As for the shortcomings, there are not many of them, but they still exist:

• If a homemade stove is made of stone, then it may be too heavy. This will require additional strengthening of the foundation, which will entail additional costs.
• There is a need to protect the environment, since the amateur stove maker does not always have the necessary knowledge on how to reduce the temperature outside the stove.
• It is necessary to carry out all work with a high degree of professionalism, since an incorrectly made stove will not properly heat the steam room and will generally cause more problems than joy.

The difference between a stove and a boiler

Many people mistakenly believe that a stove and a boiler are one and the same. Indeed, making a boiler is somewhat easier than making a stove, but this does not eliminate the disadvantage that the boiler will never create the required temperature in the bathhouse. The main purpose of the stove is heat transfer. It dissipates heat around or transfers it to a certain place, but does not concentrate it inside itself.

With the boiler, everything is exactly the opposite. It pumps heat inside and then transfers it through the pipes. However, the lion's share of the heat is lost as it passes through the pipes, causing the temperature to drop significantly, so the boiler is unable to properly heat the bathhouse.

Thus, the choice in favor of a stove rather than a boiler is obvious, although it turns out to be many times more difficult to manufacture. It is important that you are not deceived when you come across assurances in numerous instructions that the boiler and stove are one and the same.

Kinds

Today, homemade stoves are divided according to many parameters. These include not only materials, but also the location of the firebox, the presence or absence of fuel, and the method of heating the heater. In order to properly evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each of the available options, it is necessary to study them all.

It is important that not all of these types are available for a novice master to perform. Most require certain experience and knowledge regarding exactly how such structures should be made and what to focus on. Knowing what type of stove you want in your bathhouse will help you avoid people wasting time and effort adding options that will not be used in the future. For example, A steam generator or tank is not always necessary. The same goes for the dimmer., with which you can set the temperature.

The latter option is available only to either professional stove makers or people who are well versed in the nuances of such technological devices and have decided to build an electric stove.

Closed and open

The division of sauna stoves into closed and open is a fundamental factor on which the type of heat they supply fundamentally depends. So, in closed ovens the stones are covered with a lid. This is done so that the stones do not cool down longer, giving off heat only as needed. Whatever the temperature, in baths with a closed oven the steam will be moist, soft, and light.

In Russian baths you can find similar heaters much more often.

As for open ovens, then they are more typical for a sauna than for a bath. They give off intense heat and the humidity is almost zero. With all this, the stones heat up almost instantly to high temperatures.

It’s easier to build such a stove, since you don’t have to work on making a lid, but for a bathhouse this option is not the best because of the dry hot steam. Moist steam is welcome in the bathhouse.

By material

The division by material is the most obvious of all. There aren't many options. Today, only metals and bricks are available for self-production.

Brick

The dream of many bathhouse owners is a brick oven. This is due not only to its traditional and solid appearance, but also to its durability, ability to retain heat for a long time and other positive features. However, in order to lay out such a stove, you will have to work hard. Laying takes a lot of time, and it also requires some experience. Also You will need to purchase special materials: ordinary brick will not work.

An important disadvantage of brick stove structures is their weight. A small stove designed to heat an average bathhouse can weigh up to 300 kilograms, so the foundation under such a stove will need to be strengthened. However, this drawback is compensated by the fact that such a stove is suitable for heating a two-story bathhouse, and not just for creating sufficient temperature in a steam room. In addition, aesthetically, such a stove looks most attractive precisely due to its traditional appearance.

Many bathhouse owners cannot imagine their steam room without such an impressive structure.

Metal

Metal stoves are a more common option due to the fact that it is much easier to build such a structure yourself. All you need is sheet metal, tools for cutting and fastening it, and welding skills. Thanks to such a simple set, metal options have become so wildly popular among amateur stove makers.

However, the oven cannot be made from any metal. For example, aluminum, which is so easy to work with, is absolutely not suitable for these purposes. Even when cooled, it bends easily, but if it is heated, it will warp and bend greatly. As a result, the stove will lose its shape after the first heating.

Copper is also not suitable for these purposes.. Copper furnaces are excellent to use, but this non-ferrous metal itself is quite expensive, as a result of which it turns out to be cheaper to buy a ready-made unit than to install it manually.

Steel

Steel stoves are the easiest to make due to the fact that steel is a malleable material, but not too much. Steel sheets are easy to process, but difficult to bend by hand, so they are more preferable for building stoves. But practice shows that steel furnaces have many disadvantages.

So, the steel heats up to the point where the heat becomes uncomfortable and harsh, which makes taking such a bath unpleasant. This drawback cannot be somehow eliminated, since this is the cost of using a steel case.

Among other things, a steel stove emits harmful infrared radiation, which generally negates the entire beneficial effect of the bath.

Steel stoves cool quickly, although they heat up quickly. Constant replenishment will be required to keep the temperature at least approximately the same level.

You will also have to monitor what kind of wood or other combustion sources are used to maintain heat. If you use a heat source that has a combustion temperature that is too high, the stove may become deformed and no longer look attractive.

Cast iron

Cast iron stoves are wildly popular, since cast iron, among all metals, is most well suited for the manufacture of stoves. This is due to some specific features inherent in cast iron.

So, a cast iron stove heats up quite quickly. Not as fast as steel, of course, but faster than brick. At the same time, it also warms up the steam room quickly. Compared to a brick stove structure, a cast iron stove “works” twice as fast.

Cast iron stoves maintain temperature for a long time, producing heat that is comfortable for humans. The heat is soft, the steam is moist. At the same time, there is no harmful infrared radiation, which can negatively affect health. In terms of service life, a cast iron stove can be compared with a brick one.

Cast iron is not afraid of high temperatures, so in theory it is possible to create any temperature in a bathhouse. Cast iron structures do not deform even as a result of impacts, not to mention the effects of heat. In addition, cast iron units do not rust, which is an additional advantage.

By energy carrier

As for what you can use to heat a bathhouse, there are many options. Among them there are both traditional and modern. It should be noted in advance that the manufacture of electric or combined ovens requires special skill. In the first case, you may need knowledge of engineering, in the second, the ability to combine several techniques at once in one product.

As a rule, for home sauna stoves, fuel options are chosen that will not require a lot of money in the future. Energy-saving technologies or recycling of raw materials are used. This is especially true for wood stoves.

Some heat the bathhouse with chipboards left over after renovation, but this is strictly not recommended, since choosing real wood (oak, birch) is still healthier for your health.

Electrical

Electric sauna stoves appeared not so long ago. Today, factory analogues are widespread. Few people dare to make such a design on their own, for fear of making a mistake and spoiling expensive raw materials. However, much more often than electric stoves, you can find electric fireplaces. It makes no sense to make just an electric stove, since with moderate electricity consumption it will warm up the steam room for too long, and for rapid heating you will have to use too much electricity, which will negatively affect utility bills.

It is better to use the power of electrical recharge only to maintain the existing temperature in the room. Then you won’t waste a lot of electricity, and you won’t have to struggle with a full-fledged electric oven, and maintaining the temperature at the required level will become much easier.

Wood burning

The favorite option that most people prefer is wood-burning stoves. They are recognized as the best option for a bathhouse, since the fumes from real wooden firewood are good for health. Building a wood stove is the easiest: there are many designs and methods by which you can do it.

Stone wood stoves work best, however, cast iron analogues are also quite acceptable. So, a brick stove on wood does not cool down for a long time, and if you use long-burning wood, then you can maintain the desired temperature all night long.

However, there may be problems with folding this option correctly. To do this, you will need the help of a professional stove maker, and there are very few of them on the market. A wood stove can be made of steel or cast iron. If you have some experience, choose cast iron. It is more difficult to work with, but the oven will be more reliable.

Gas

Today, gas stoves are almost as in demand as wood stoves. Often combined options are made, in which the stove can be fueled with both wood and gas. However, such popularity of gas baths is explained not only by their ability to quickly and efficiently heat the air in the steam room.

Gas is one of the cheapest types of fuel, so you won’t need much money to buy it. Among other things, a gas stove will not have to be removed and cleaned as often as a wood stove, since gas cannot clog the chimney or clog the fuel chamber.

Making a gas stove yourself is a rather complicated procedure, since you will have to take into account many requirements, but this guarantees high safety of using the stove in the future.

If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to refuse to make a gas sauna stove, otherwise the sauna may simply turn into a gas chamber.

According to the location of the firebox

When sauna stoves were first invented, the firebox was located inside the stove and there was no thought that it could be located any other way. However, over time, people realized that small modifications can completely change the stove design itself, as well as the air quality and heat in the steam room. This is how remote fireboxes appeared. Today, there are only two options for the location of the firebox - built-in and remote.

Each option has its own pros and cons, so it is impossible to clearly determine which option is better. Each of them is suitable in a specific case, often remaining the only possible one.

Built-in

The built-in firebox is used only in cases where it is necessary to save space. It happens that you have to give up having a waiting room when it comes to a very tiny bathhouse. However, this is where all the advantages of this option end.

The disadvantages of a built-in firebox are many times greater than the advantages. Thus, the location of the firebox inside the steam room contributes to the fact that the oxygen in the room burns out, of which there is little there anyway. The only way to correct the situation is to establish a ventilation system. There will indeed be more oxygen, but this will lead to the fact that the temperature will drop significantly and the oven will have to be heated more strongly. As a result, oxygen will burn out again. It turns out to be a vicious circle.

Also, the prospect of adding firewood if the firebox is inside the steam room does not seem tempting, since accidentally jumping out coal can cause the entire bathhouse to flare up like a match.

Remote

A remote firebox is much more functional, but it requires enough space. In this case, the chamber itself, into which the firewood is thrown, is located in the room adjacent to the steam room. The advantages are obvious: there is no risk of burning from lack of oxygen, firewood is supplied from another room, so the risk of a fire is also minimized. Whatever the temperature in the bathhouse, the microclimate will still be comfortable, since precious oxygen will not burn out and the heat will not seem harsh.

The only significant disadvantage is that the bathhouse must consist of at least two rooms, that is, have a larger area. However, this minus can only be called a minus with a stretch, since few people make a bathhouse consisting only of a steam room.

Another important note: it is better to place a fire extinguisher near the firebox just in case.

According to the method of heating the heater

This point involves placing stones relative to the heat source. There are periodic and continuous heating furnaces. In continuous heating furnaces, which are more common today, the stones do not come into direct contact with the exhaust combustion products. They are placed in a special container, which is located in the steam room itself. The middle fraction stones remain clean; you can pour a little water on them to make the steam more humid. Thus, the maximum heating temperature of the stones reaches 400 degrees, the steam is dry and hard, more typical of a Finnish sauna.

A periodically heating heater looks completely different. Here, the smoke from the burning fuel passes directly through the stones, subsequently exiting through the chimney. This imposes certain restrictions: for example, You can’t wash in the bathhouse until all the fuel has burned out and all the carbon dioxide has escaped, otherwise you might get burned. In this case, the stones are heated to extremely high temperatures - 1000 degrees. Steam is generated as soon as you pour water on the stones. By the way, The stones for such heaters should be large and round.

Based on tank availability

Bathhouses are often equipped with a water heating tank on the side. This way, the heat from the side walls of the stove is not wasted, but heats up the water in the tank, which can later be used at will. The tank on the side also serves as a heat exchanger, thanks to the presence of which an optimal microclimate is achieved in the dressing room and steam room.

Another purpose of the tank is to heat the rest of the building. It happens that the bathhouse is located on the ground floor of the house. After the stove has been heated, it warms up the water well, which is then distributed throughout the house through a pipe system.

You can make such improvised heating radiators with your own hands if you further study how such a system works and what it is based on. It will not be difficult to weld an ordinary tank on the side of the stove or near the chimney.

With steam generator

As for the design of the steam generator, this solution allows you to fill the room with heavy, damp steam, like in a hammam, without resorting to a complete rework of the stove. The most interesting solution is to install a mini-steam generator in addition to a homemade sauna stove, which will save space while doing its job just as well.

In addition to the above, there are several more varieties of sauna stove designs that do not fall under any classification. One of them can be a mobile oven. It has a much smaller size and weight, due to which it can be moved relatively freely from room to room. Mobile stoves are usually equipped with a built-in firebox, since a remote one would be more problematic.

Top burning sauna, or feeding, is a design in which combustion begins from the top tier of stacked firewood, gradually spreading to the underlying rows. Such designs have been used for Russian baths since ancient times, since they avoid serious heat loss at the very beginning of combustion.

Fuel exhaustion occurs gradually and smoldering occurs during the period when the steam room is hot enough, and all that is required is to maintain the temperature.

What to look for when choosing?

Before you make your final choice on any of the options, you need to evaluate it according to several parameters. Such careful preparation is required due to the fact that building a stove (especially a brick one) is a troublesome task and requires financial investment, so it is important not to make a mistake.

The assessment is made on the basis of the most obvious and common factors, and these affect both the choice of material and design.

Heating rate

How quickly the stove heats up is crucial when it comes to a sauna for year-round use. If in summer there is practically no risk that the bathhouse will not warm up well enough, then in winter this probability is extremely high.

So, in summer you can heat a bathhouse in 3-4 hours, while in winter you will need to spend 8-12 hours on it.

It is also important how well the stove holds heat. For example, a steel structure heats up well, but cools down just as quickly, which negatively affects the time during which you can wash in the bathhouse. The controversial issue is whether it is worth heating the sauna for 3 hours in order to be able to steam in it for only an hour. Maintaining the temperature will take too much fuel, which is not sustainable from a financial point of view.

Layout

Method of heating the heater

The contact of stones with smoke from heat sources plays an important role, since it determines how quickly one can wash in the bathhouse. This affects the temperature and humidity in the bathhouse, as well as the microclimate. Some varieties are more suitable for saunas, others - for Russian baths, but recently combined options have become most popular, when you can vary the air humidity at will. Intermittent heaters with a miniature steam generator are most suitable for this.

However, if you need to receive steam only of a certain type (for example, if you are a fan of the Finnish sauna and only that), then it would be more logical to save money and build a heater without additions, but only one that would be provided with the necessary parameters.

Fuel used

Decide in advance what you want to fuel your stove with. The complexity and high cost of making a stove largely depends on this. Thus, the easiest option to implement is a wood-burning design, since there is no need to resort to technical improvements.

The optimal solution would be to combine the ability to be powered from several power sources in one furnace. For example, when one runs out, you can use another. The most popular is a combination of gas and wood fueling.

In addition to those listed, there are several more factors that are not so extensive, but also significant. These include the temperature power of the oven.

It makes no sense to make a stove that is too powerful for a small bathhouse, but a design that is too small will not cope with heating a large room. Be sure to correlate the bath area with the thermal output of your product.

The temperature of the walls of the furnace unit is also not least important. Not so long ago, so-called “cold” stoves appeared. They take much longer to warm up, but their outside temperature never exceeds 60 degrees, while inside it can be several hundred degrees higher.

Blueprints

Drawing up a drawing is an important and responsible step. Without proper education, it is almost impossible to draw up a competent drawing, and without the correct drawing it is impossible to build a good stove. Fortunately, there is a simple solution - use a ready-made scheme. They are freely available in abundance, so you can choose the most suitable one.

Another option is to order a drawing made according to your own measurements. This solution has several advantages:

• such a unit will ideally fit in the niche of the bathhouse that you have allocated for it;
• there will be all the necessary accessories (for example, a tank);
• The connection diagram of the parts, as a rule, is immediately indicated on the drawing, so you will avoid complications.

The cost of such a custom option is not so high, so you can easily afford it. The money spent on purchasing the circuit will allow you to save a lot of effort, time and nerves in the future.

Materials

Because of this, the list was reduced to only two positions: brick and metal. Stone stoves have been and remain the most preferred option for Russian baths, but metal is much cheaper and easier to work with. This has led to the fact that metal structures are gradually replacing brick ones. For self-production, it is also better to prefer a metal unit, since it is easier to make it yourself than to lay out a classic brick structure.

Brick stoves are beautiful and have high heat output. Due to the fact that they are difficult to make yourself, many people refuse to build them, but with enough experience you can make such a structure yourself.

Simple ovens look like this:

• A simple, no-frills stove looks decent and interesting despite the fact that not much time or effort was spent on its construction. Even a beginner can do such masonry.
• A more complex version, laid out by a professional craftsman. Such beauty requires professionalism, but the result is worth it. The result was a full-fledged Russian stove.

As you can see, brick is aesthetically attractive, but working with it requires some skill. Simple metal units are made by home-grown craftsmen throughout Russia, and the resulting stoves are no worse than factory ones. There are both very simple products and those with forged elements.

Metal structures made by hand have approximately this appearance. The most simple unit with a heater and everything you need will not take up much space. This stove has a built-in firebox, so it is designed for installation in the smallest bathhouse. A homemade stove design with forged elements and a tank for heating water will fit perfectly into any bathhouse.

Making forged parts will require blacksmithing skills or they can be made to order. It's up to you to choose which material suits you best.

Tools

To make a metal furnace you will need the following tools:

• welding machine for hermetically sealing parts;
• grinder with a diamond disc for cutting metal sheets;
• drill for making small holes;
• building level, installation tape, protractor and marker for marking;
• disc for grinding metal.

For a brick kiln, a more diverse set of tools is used:

• various trowels and spatulas for applying mortar that holds the bricks together;
• a pick to give the bricks the required shape and break off excess pieces;
• laser building level for assessing contour lines;
• plumb line for assessing verticals;
• construction “triangle” measuring 40x40x57 cm;
• rule for removing excess mortar and leveling bricks;
• buckets and pallets in which mortars for fastening bricks will be diluted.

Design

Homemade stoves can have different finishes, which determine their appearance. However, everything depends not only on this. First of all, beauty and aesthetic appeal are determined by the care with which all work is carried out.

The most interesting may be the following homemade options presented:

As you can see, there are no metal products among them, since brick units look much more advantageous in design.

Where to install?

The answer to this question is obvious: in the steam room. However, in reality everything turns out to be not so simple. If a unit with a built-in firebox just needs to be installed in a steam room, then with an external one - only against the wall adjacent to the room into which the firebox will go. The firebox can also have access to the street. Then it is important to evaluate where you want the outlet to be and install the stove there.

The decision about where the installation will take place must be made at the stage of laying the foundation. This measure is due to the fact that the foundation in this place will need to be well strengthened, otherwise the floor simply will not support the weight of the stove structure and will fall apart. It will also be necessary to include a mounting hole under the stove in the plan if it has an external firebox. Otherwise, there will be serious problems with the installation.

Preparatory work

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to prepare not only the materials from which the stove will be built directly, but also the bathhouse itself. If you do not do all this well enough, then there is a high probability that the stove will not work properly. For example, heat may not be applied where it is needed, or there may be problems with smoke escaping, which can be hazardous to health.

The first step is to search for or order a drawing (possibly self-made). The drawing must contain all the necessary information about the furnace.

Metal preparation

This procedure is carried out after all the parts are cut to the required dimensions. It is necessary to release those elements of the future unit that heat up the most. These include the sides, top and firebox door. They are the ones who come into contact with the burning fuel.

Release is carried out as follows. First, the sheets become red-hot, after which they should not be cooled quickly. It is best to let the metal sheets cool slowly. There is no need to immerse them in cold water. After carrying out these manipulations, you may notice that the parts have warped and lost their original shape. To return them to a look close to the original, use a hammer to knock the parts into the desired shape. If the hammer does not help or the parts become larger, then simply saw off the protruding parts.

This preventive measure allows you to avoid the stove becoming warped during the first use.

Calculations

All stove values ​​must be shown on the drawings. We are talking about how much of the foundation area needs to be strengthened and how much of the wall area needs to be protected. Based on the dimensions of the furnace, we can say that the place where the foundation is strengthened should extend 30 cm beyond the edges of the stove. For example, when making a square metal unit with dimensions of 60x60 cm, you will need to strengthen a place of 120x120 cm (30+60+30 cm on each side).

The wall must be insulated 50 cm above and beyond the stove. For example, with a stove height of 80 cm, you will need to make insulation 1.3 m high from the floor. It will also be necessary to lay a metal sheet on the place where the stove will be installed. This is done so that if something happens, the fallen ember does not cause a fire. The metal layer should protrude 1 m beyond the plane of the door.

Marking

Before starting work on cutting metal, all components will need to be marked. For this, again, the data given in the drawing is used.

Sometimes markings are done on the fly, when the unit is made up of rectangular and square elements, but even in this case It’s better to draw the boundaries with a marker. In the future, it will be easier for you to cut out the necessary parts by following the outlined lines.

Preparing the premises

This refers to the laying of metal sheets on the floor and walls, the calculation of which was given in one of the previous paragraphs. It is best to choose stainless steel for these purposes.. Despite the fact that it will sag under the weight of the stove, there is an advantage that completely redeems this fact - you will not encounter damage to the metal by rust, which can greatly worsen its appearance and condition.

Strengthening the foundation

There is an alternative way: choose an electric stove, which, due to the lack of fuel, will not weigh as much as gas or wood-burning options. However, this also comes with some costs.

Manufacturing

The construction of a metal stove does not cause such difficulties as a brick one, so it is logical to start the description with a simpler option.

To make a simple pipe stove, use the following step-by-step guide:

• The simplest way is to make a unit from a log. To do this you will need a piece of pipe at least 50 cm in diameter. The size of the cut depends on how high you want your stove to be.
• Cut a blower in the pipe with dimensions of 0.05x0.2 m.
• Cut an opening for the firebox with dimensions of 25x20 cm.
• Next, weld the fasteners for the rods that make up the heater. Fittings with a diameter of 1 cm are suitable for this.

• Secure the mesh heater made of rods.
• Opposite the heater, cut another hole for steam.
• Fill the heater with stones. It is prohibited to use granite or any stones containing mica for these purposes. Soapstone is perfect.
• Weld a cap to the diameter of the pipe on top.
• Cut a hole in the lid for the chimney. The diameter of the chimney pipe should be about 15 cm.
• Weld the chimney pipe.

Installing a brick oven will require much more materials, effort and time. Depending on the option chosen, you will need a certain amount of bricks. Make sure that the brick is fire-resistant.

Pay attention to the following diagram. It indicates the order of the bricks. Follow it to build the oven correctly. You can also use bricks to cover a metal structure. This gives the effect that your bathhouse has a brick stove, not a metal one.

Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation of the stove itself is necessary, if only because during the combustion process a lot of thermal energy is dissipated in the surrounding space. Bathhouse owners are trying their best to eliminate this drawback in order to rationally use all available heat.

Thermal insulation can be carried out in several ways:

• By installing protective metal wall screens. They will reflect heat. It makes sense to place such a screen around the heater located in the steam room. Then all the heat will not be dissipated into nowhere, but will be pumped into the steam room.
• Brick shielding. In this case, the thickness of the brick should be equal to half the standard one, that is, it is optimal to use masonry made of half bricks.

Protection for walls and floors, which is made of sheet metal and was described above, also serves as a kind of thermal insulation measure.

Safety precautions

There are two real dangers when you are in a bathhouse: getting burned or getting acne. To prevent burns, they came up with a special material - basalt cardboard.. It is placed around the heaters so that awkward movement does not lead to a severe burn, because in an atmosphere of hot air, touching the surface at the same temperature as the air can cause a serious second-degree burn.

To avoid the danger of burning, it is advised not to make a stove whose vent goes directly into the steam room. It is best to take it into an adjacent room or outside.

Also you need to check whether the ash has been removed before adding pressure, since combustion products can release carbon monoxide, which is odorless. It is not easy to understand that you are suffocating with it.

Experts share some tricks that will make the oven making process much easier:

• Don't neglect the drawing. Without it, there is a high probability of making a mistake and building an ugly and ineffective stove structure.
• Be sure to complete all prep work to reduce the risk of fire.
• Furnace repairs must be done in a timely manner to avoid the need to quickly replace your existing stove due to the impossibility of troubleshooting.
• If you plan to use the stove not only for a bath, but also for heating, provide a pipe system.
• If you are not confident that you can build a stove of decent quality, abandon this idea. A sober assessment of your abilities can save you effort, time and money and preserve your self-esteem.

Beautiful examples

• A self-made unit made of black metal with a twisted heater looks interesting and unusual. This design can decorate any steam room, regardless of its size.
• If the stove doesn't look very attractive, it doesn't mean it doesn't work well. This image clearly shows the option available in most baths. The owners did not spend much time on finishing, concentrating on the functioning of the stove.

• A metal stove with a brick lining looks traditional, but it is not so difficult to make. The brick frame in this case acts as a heat-insulating shield, allowing the temperature to remain at the original level longer.

- of course, a heating stove for a bath. Modern industrial production offers many models to replace traditional wood-burning heaters: liquid fuel, gas with a metal body, and pellet-fired. Factory products are equipped with many functions and are fuel efficient. And their maintenance is minimal.

There are many options for homemade devices for a steam room, depending on the type of room. For example, there are so-called cold stoves, that is, those whose outer walls do not warm up above 50°C. This is an important advantage, since this design prevents you from getting burned. Such units require a long period of continuous kindling. Heating occurs through special air ducts. They take air from the floor and heat it, passing it through the combustion chamber. Warm and soft steam comes out from above without burning anyone. In such a bath it is easy to regulate the humidity level and heating temperature.

Unlike “cold” stoves, “hot” stoves quickly and efficiently heat up the steam room due to the hot walls, the temperature of which can reach up to 100°C. Careless touching them can result in burns, and the degree of air heating in this case is difficult to control. And this threatens heat stroke.

Made of brick

A good and simple “cold” sauna stove structurally looks like this: the combustion chamber is made of refractory brick, with an ash pan located underneath it. To preserve the heat, cobblestones are placed on top of a steel or cast iron grate. Their mass is calculated from the ratio: 20–30 kg of stones are required for 1 m 3 of steam room. This proportion is true for continuously operating devices. If heating occurs periodically, that is, after heating the room to the desired level, it is extinguished, then the amount must be increased by 2 times. Sometimes, for better heat retention, cast iron pigs are added in a ratio of 20% to 80% stone.

The walls themselves, in addition to brick, can be made of ordinary or rubble stone. Sometimes granite or pebbles are used for construction. The weight of each element is from 1 to 5 kg. Don't try to build with silicon - it will simply burst when heated.

When laying a heater, only clay and sand can be used as a binding solution. Ordinary cement mortar will not withstand high temperatures and will not last even a year.

The clay is soaked in water for several days and mixed with sifted sand to the consistency of thick sour cream. It is preferable to take mountain sand rather than river sand. Its edges are uneven, unpolished and provide better grip.

A stove made of baked bricks with stones weighs a lot, so you will have to make a foundation for it. For this, a pit with a depth of 70 cm is sufficient.

15 cm of sand and crushed stone are poured onto the bottom. Then everything is filled with a layer of concrete, preferably with reinforcement. The frozen foundation is covered with rolls of roofing material on top for waterproofing.

Let's note some points:

1. The corner of the bathhouse where the stove is installed must be thermally insulated and reinforced. In addition to the risk of fire, there will be a large temperature difference, which can lead to cracks in the walls.
2. The first row is laid dry on a roofing felt substrate without mortar.
3. The remaining blocks are moistened with water during operation, each new row is laid with dressing (offset relative to the previous one).
4. It is necessary to ensure that the sides of the bricks facing the inside of the combustion chamber are intact, without chips or cracks. The wall here should be as smooth as possible, since any pothole provokes the destruction of the structure. At the same time, you cannot coat the internal surfaces with clay - once it dries, it will begin to peel off and clog the chimney.
5. After completing the masonry work, the stove must be dried. To do this, either it is left for 15 days with good air flow, or it is heated several times in a gentle mode.

Video: laying a heater with 3×3.5 bricks

Blueprints

Metal stove

Unlike brick structures, metal units are compact and quickly warm up themselves and heat the room.

A metal stove also needs a foundation. Although its mass is much less than its stone counterpart, nevertheless, a reliable foundation must be made for it.

The starting material will be thick sheet steel or large diameter pipes. The design of such a stove will be similar to a stone one. The only difference is the firebox. It is customary to make it two-chamber, so that fuel can be burned in the second compartment. This scheme allows you to increase productivity by 20%.

The body must be completely welded - tack welding is not suitable here.

The main disadvantage of a steel furnace is the extensive hot surface, which is dangerous for people. However, this is easy to fix. After installation, the body is simply lined with refractory bricks, leaving gaps for convection.

Video: making a metal stove for a bath step by step

Drawings and diagrams of metal furnaces

Since ancient times, a brick stove in a bathhouse was especially popular in Rus', which could not be found in one’s own home only in exceptional cases. Over the past few years, baths have literally experienced an incredible rebirth.

First of all, this, of course, is influenced by the fact that more and more people are refusing to live in apartment buildings and are increasingly making a choice in favor of individual construction. That is why the question of how to build a stove for a bathhouse is becoming more and more popular every year.

If you can competently plan the construction process, then you will be able to build your own bathhouse in a short time without any problems, and add a special atmosphere of cheerfulness and health to your home.

Preparation process

All you need to build a sauna on your own site is literally minimal construction skills and a little patience. The first thing to start with is to choose the drawings of the stove for the bath of your dreams.

In most cases, the stove in the steam room is located in such a way that one part of the building is responsible for maintaining the level of heat in the dressing room, and the other is responsible for heating the steam room itself.

If we talk about the material that should be chosen for the building at the very beginning, then, in principle, most builders agree that it is possible to use those leftover materials that were not used during the main construction.

The construction process will go much faster if all the necessary tools are prepared in advance.

It is best to have trowels on the right side of the stove, as well as a level, a bucket in which there will be mortar and a hammer.

To the left of the stove, as a rule, there is a bucket of clean water and definitely another bucket with a dustpan, as well as pliers and an ordinary pencil, which will definitely be needed when making various marks.

A pit will definitely be needed for the stove. Particular attention should be paid to its size, namely its depth, which should be at least 0.7 m.

The bottom of the pit, according to the rules, should be covered with about twenty centimeters of sand. After this, the sand is covered from above with crushed stone and broken bricks.

Next, it is necessary to provide a reinforced frame with formwork in the pit. From above, the entire surface must be filled with concrete. Look at the photo of the sauna stove and you will see that usually no more than twenty centimeters are left.

The last two layers of the foundation act as the main waterproofing material. After the foundation is completely ready, it must be checked for horizontalness.

If any shortcomings appear, they can be quite simply eliminated using the flaws that have arisen. After the work has been completed, you can gradually move on to the construction of the bathhouse itself.

The importance of the chimney duct

When installing a chimney, it is very important to pay special attention to the general parameters of the structure. If the homemade metal sauna stove turns out to be quite small, then you shouldn’t make the pipe too massive.

In practice, the approximate thickness of the walls is about half a brick. It is desirable that the cross-section of the smoke passages be the same size.

Final stage

It is very important, after installation is completed, but before use, to dry the sauna stove properly. It is customary to use one of the following methods for these purposes:

Note!

• Forced;
• Natural.

The most preferable, according to the builders, is the second option, but you have to prepare in advance for additional time costs.

Using this method, you can be sure that the oven will dry out as evenly as possible and not a single crack will form.

Remember that if you follow all the advice given to you by the builders, then without any difficulties you will be able to build a bathhouse quickly enough exclusively on your own.

Just remember to make sure in advance that you are prepared for the necessary financial costs.

Photo of a sauna stove with your own hands

Note!

Note!

There are currently many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove for a bathhouse with your own hands. In this article we will describe in detail, attaching relevant photos, how to do this, having your own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in a bathhouse and a sauna differ significantly from each other. The sauna is accompanied by high temperatures - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles in such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath has a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If you are setting up a sauna, you will need to maintain the maximum area of ​​contact between the stove body and the air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as quickly as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, can heat the stones to 200-250 ºС. It makes it possible to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you only need to achieve 15% humidity.

In a Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached and a lot of steam is produced. Moreover, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. “Dry” steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values ​​​​of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, stones are placed in a firebox, that is, in a closed heater.

Do-it-yourself stoves for Russian baths

The most important thing when making metal sauna stoves according to drawings with your own hands is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the required temperature within 60-65 ºC with heated metal walls (read: “Drawings of a metal sauna stove - building a stove with your own hands”). You will definitely have to reheat it, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, which makes it quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

• Lining the firebox. The process involves lining the inside of the firebox with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay it on edge, and the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant; the heater warms up the most. Therefore, you should immediately design the firebox so that it is larger in size, since most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that it produces hot smoke, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on the pipe. It is a little more difficult to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install a brick screen around an iron stove for a bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow you to control the level of air heating in the future. We can conclude that this option is the best due to the ability to regulate the temperature, but it is less practical, since the back wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a fairly thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A homemade iron stove for a bathhouse quite often begins to burn out precisely because of poor-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved by using a bent structure. They try to minimize the number of seams on top of the stove.

When making a metal stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, it will be almost impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, so, as a rule, all that remains is to make extremely high-quality seams.

What size is the heater and in what place is it better to place it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of room. Naturally, the more there are, the easier it is to produce the required volume of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy different volumes. It has been determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30x40x30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a sauna stove from metal with your own hands, you will need to select the individual volume of the heater based on the size of the stove. To avoid mistakes, it is better to start from ready-made drawings. When using an experimental approach, it is worth considering that the volume of the firebox should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before building a stove in a bathhouse, it is worth calculating the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be maintained, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that you can easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, placed inside the container, which would reach all the stones. On the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After the tubes are separated, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the tubes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel stoves for a bath

Let's consider a stove option that will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. For its construction, 3 mm thick steel sheets are used.

To start the combustion process, the design provides an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are laid at the top of the firebox to the sides.

Let's consider another scheme according to which you can make metal sauna stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called gas afterburning furnaces. A steel plate is welded to it on the back wall. Air enters the furnace from under the grate and is supplied through air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the firebox.

This interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and also supplies already heated air to the upper part, where very hot gases in the form of smoke are concentrated. 80% of their volume is flammable.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the firebox and heating of the stones to higher levels. If you use dry firewood as fuel, you will need much less of it. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently begun to be used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. By studying its drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves building a firebox with a volume 30% larger than a heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties during its installation - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not recommended.

In addition, before making a stove for a bath, you should decide whether a tank for heating water is needed in the steam room. Some people adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts claim that heavy steam is generated in this way, so they advise installing the tank in the washing room, and heating the water using a heat exchanger built into the firebox, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now let's look at the diagram of a metal stove with a water tank. The design is considered to be quite well designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby better heating the walls of the firebox. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank behind the stove. The chimney is moved back, passing through the tank. Due to the large height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite sufficient for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to its location, it can be difficult to close after water is supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired level as quickly as possible and maintain it at this level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, by blowing on the walls, speed up the heating.

The convector casing is also designed for these purposes. The gap between it and the wall of the firebox should be 1.5-2 cm. Through the gap, air is sucked in, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make a stove for a bathhouse with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal and the casing is made of thin metal, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, holes can be made in the body for ventilation. In this case, a portion of the air rising along the walls will be directed into the heater, blowing the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is perfect for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal sauna stove, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient to accommodate large logs. The sides of the heater are welded on top of the firebox, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size may vary; there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bathhouse as correctly as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the humidity level in the sauna, which can lead to burns in extreme temperatures.

There is another option - install the heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, and such a stove can have two operating modes: with the lid open - to keep the steaming process dry, and with the lid closed - to produce a larger volume of steam.

How to make a stove for a sauna: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make it from iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

How to make a stove for a sauna: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make it from iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

Today there are many designs of metal stoves: wood, electric and gas. Wood-burning appliances require a lot of fuel and careful maintenance, but they produce a “live” fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas furnaces are the most modern and reliable; they have thermostats for power control and protective devices that are triggered when the gas goes out.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal sauna stoves

Metal sauna stoves have significant advantages over other heating structures:

• The small dimensions and mobility of a metal stove make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal stoves are:

1. Rapid cooling due to the oven's inability to retain heat. Constant support for fuel combustion is required.

Material for a metal stove in a bathhouse

To make the stove, metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm is used; with a smaller value, the device will not last more than 5-7 years. Reputable stove manufacturers offer ten-millimeter steel products for fireboxes and slightly thinner ones for water tanks and stone bins.

Design of a metal stove-heater for a bath

A metal sauna stove consists of three main parts, such as a fuel combustion chamber, a hopper for stones, and a tank for heating water.

• The combustion chamber. This is where the wood burning process takes place. To control it, the firebox and ash door doors are used. The latter serves to supply air to the firebox. Removal of combustion products from the stove is carried out through an ash pan - a metal grate. From the firebox, the heat from the burning wood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of a metal sauna stove is clear to you, let’s move on to the process of its manufacture.

Making a sauna stove from a metal pipe

We will make the stove from a pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, its height will be 1600 mm. For work we will need: a steel sheet measuring 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a metal pipe 1600 mm long with a wall thickness of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, a metal rod of 10 mm, a cast iron grate (from the store), door hinges - 8 pcs., latches - 3 pcs., drain valve for the tank, tape measure, building level, grinder, metal scissors, welding machine.

1. We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, the other is 0.7 m long.

Installation procedure for a metal stove in a bathhouse

Activities for installing a sauna stove begin at the stage of erecting the entire building - to install the device, a foundation is laid with a slight depth. A masonry of two rows of bricks is made on it, and a stove is placed on it.

• The minimum distance between the wall and the stove is assumed to be at least 1 m. In addition, it is recommended to install additional protection in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with foil with a layer of insulation. This will prevent the wooden wall from overheating and catching fire.

After installing the stove, you can line it with bricks using clay mortar. This will improve the appearance of the device and save people from the possibility of burns. The stove with lining can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above will convince you that making a metal stove for a bathhouse is not so difficult. If you have metal cutting and welding skills, you can use a simple drawing to make a homemade stove that will be no worse than a purchased one.

DIY metal sauna stove

Homemade metal stoves for baths have always competed with their brick counterparts. This is due to the fast heating and simple installation of such units. With manufacturing instructions

Assembling a sauna stove with your own hands from metal

A lot of do-it-yourself sauna stove designs made of metal have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully explored and is still relevant. You can make metal sauna stoves with your own hands from available metal materials; you just need desire and a little time.

DIY metal sauna stoves

After looking through this article and following the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great time in the sauna, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. We'll tell you about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and structure should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and water heating

What do you need for work?

If you are going to build a metal sauna stove with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determine the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything necessary.

Tool

• Welding machine.
• Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
• Bulgarian.

Material metal

If you are making a homemade sauna stove from a pipe, you will need:

• Wheels - 4 pcs.
• Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
• Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
• Iron fittings with a diameter of 8-10 mm or rod.

Construction material

• Brick - 300-350 pcs.
• Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
• Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cubic meters.

Please note: draft is created by discharge, i.e. discharged cold air draws out warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends upward under the influence of Archimedes' force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - the draft is naturally less, in winter the opposite is true. The draft also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of a heater stove

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it is created smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, drafts, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise upward, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - famous roman baths.

Furnace construction work

So, let's start building a metal sauna stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the base on which you plan to install the structure. Despite the fact that an iron stove for a bathhouse made from a pipe weighs little, it is imperative to prepare a foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We are building the foundation

• For the foundation for the stove, we knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
• We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across in squares 20x20 cm. We tie the reinforcement at the points of connection with each other with knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground; to do this, we drive it into the ground along the edges of the grate. 4 pieces of reinforcement and tie a lattice to them in weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure the grate is in the middle.
• After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, open all the doors and windows in the bathhouse for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the poured foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form when drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

An iron stove is assembled like this:

• Take the rear rim from the wheel, weld all the holes except the one in the middle.
• Let's take the next rim, cut off the convex top, insert the first rim into the second and brew. There should be no holes or cracks, the device must be airtight, after welding we beat off the slag and check the welding seam; if it’s not finished welding somewhere, we finish welding it, check it again by knocking off the slag.

Moments of assembling a sauna stove

Assembling parts of the 2nd stage of the furnace

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the vent and firebox, everything else is in the bathhouse.

Drawing of the oven interior

If you did not have a dressing room, then we will build it along with a stove for the bath. The corner in which the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done for the purpose of fire safety, because the inside of the bathhouse is always decorated with wood.

So, let's start making a stove; if you have no experience in stove making or have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will build a stove for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it’s time to try it, and I’ll tell you how to do it.

• We lay out the base completely from bricks, and in the second row we begin to lay out the ash pit (ash pan).

Ash pit, ashpit

After laying the stove should dry for at least 2 weeks, if you flood it immediately, microcracks will appear, which will compromise the integrity of the stove. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the oven dries out. You can heat it with small wood chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if there is no moisture and the walls were all dry. You can run the oven fully for maintenance, and the oven is ready for use.

• Now let's look at the pipe; the figure shows the finished type of pipe that is placed on the stove we have folded.
• In an iron stove, the heater is located directly on the body itself, in ours it is located on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank there.

The oven itself is assembled

I note that the design itself will be quite heavy, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal sauna stove of original design is ready. If there is already finishing inside, cover it from welding with roofing felt or sheets of iron.

Attention. Don’t forget, when welding indoors, for fire safety purposes you need to have a bucket of water and a spray bottle. A sprinkler can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

• Chimney top (see Metal chimneys) reinforced with two reinforcements for rigidity, weld it to the pipe and attach it to one wall and to the other. To attach to the wall, we use a corner or plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled on both sides.
• We drill the brick with a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and attach it to anchors, so we have stiffness angle and stable design.

Full view: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bathhouse

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with stone grate

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

DIY metal stoves for saunas come in different shapes. Consider the oven, assembled from a pipe, its components and assembly diagram. At first glance, a pipe bath stove has the simplest possible design, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the operating principle of the stove, draft and chimney. In all cases these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

DIY metal sauna stove with built-in heater

If you independently implement the design and some original solutions so that you can create a metal sauna stove with your own hands, follow them, and you will succeed. Don’t forget that nothing is impossible for you and me, so we will dare, strive and surprise others by improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The oven in the photo above is a simple option, since the base is almost ready - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm and a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole measuring 335 mm in length and 180 mm in width, this will be our grate, we weld on rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart from each other. Separately, we make a box from sheet iron 2-3 mm in size:

We weld the box and clean out the slag.

We weld the door to it and put the part aside for now. Let's work on the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs and sidewalls on both sides.

• Our pipe diameter is 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
• Using a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it could be simpler. Place our blank (525 pipe) on the sheet and simply trace it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you have marked a part and cut it out, it is better to take the measurement again and make another one than to copy from a finished one.

DIY metal sauna stove with a large heater

For now we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the stove and assemble them inside the stove itself; we will layer and boil all the other parts one by one.

We cut two holes at the top. One is for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, departing from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (of the chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for a heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To maintain symmetry of the design, use a level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, prepare a niche for the stones, cut out the parts from a 5 mm sheet of iron.

We weld all the parts, make a square box as shown, clean it of slag, coat the seams generously with kerosene and check for any leaks. We set the finished part of the furnace aside.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, pebble, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, and threads taut. Gravity will do the rest; a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal form, just as water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: drawings

Next step: cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing the rapid leakage of heat into the chimney).

Partition for furnace shaft

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from the top and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will only find out as we progress. Measurements can be made using a tape measure and level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For the record, I’ll tell you how to make do with improvised means, if there is no level, and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, a plastic bottle or any transparent, but fairly solid object with a base.

From the bottom we mark the same distance on the sides and put marks with a marker. We pour water according to the marks - and there you go. level ready. We place it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

• We set the level itself, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, press the level to the pipe so that it does not move around, and put marks inside along the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other edge.
• Taking a measurement from mark to mark.
• Drawing a partition on a piece of metal and cut it out.
• We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of potholders on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
• We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything fits, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make marks where exactly it does not fit or is in the way, pull out the partition, and trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps, it’s okay, it’s welded by electric welding.
• We also scald the niche for the stones.

So, a DIY metal sauna stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, departing 50 mm from the bottom, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less by 1 cm. If our door size is 220x320 mm, then we cut a hole 210x310 mm. And we cut another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stoves with a tank for heating water

If a do-it-yourself metal stove for a bathhouse does not have a direct exit from the firebox into the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if it is impossible to get there. If this is not done, then ash sediments and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will have to either cut a window, or cut down and weld the pipe permanently.

• First we install the side panel with the future door, scald the outside. Through the firebox window we weld the partition to the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, and clean everything with a grinder.
• Place the chimney in the cut hole, grab it, take a level and measure the vertical on both sides, not parallel, but at an angle. So that the chimney is not blocked. We scald everything, set the pressure for the chimney below.
• Next stage: put the ash pan- blow from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
• AND completion of assembly- We weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney; the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

All that remains is to install the stove in its intended place. In this case, the installation is carried out so that the heater is located not in the stove, but outside, which makes heating the stones difficult. There will be stones take much longer to heat up than usual, but the effect will still be there. It is better to use stones for the stove maritime, they heat up faster, retain heat longer, and when they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron sauna stove with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the ash pit is made of tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

• Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: assembly

  
  Step-by-step guide to assembling a sauna stove with your own hands. Materials and tools required for the work. Detailed step-by-step description of actions when

DIY metal sauna stove

There are plenty of types of stove equipment: some prefer a brick heater built by a professional craftsman, while others prefer a metal stove constructed with their own hands.

The last option is economical, as it can be made from scrap materials with your own hands.

Advantages of the unit

The following main ones can be identified positive points, which a metal sauna stove is equipped with:

• Compactness and small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
• There is no need to build a special massive foundation. A lightweight base is also suitable for such a stove. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
• In a metal sauna stove, a constant combustion process can be maintained, which allows you to maintain the temperature at a given value throughout the entire sauna procedure.
• An economical option for furnace equipment, the possibility of constructing the structure from existing materials.

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Despite the presence of positive aspects, a metal sauna stove also has its own minuses :

1. cools down very quickly, since there is no property of storing thermal energy. In order to maintain a high temperature in the bathhouse, it is necessary to maintain a constant combustion process.
2. low ability to heat a large room;
3. the need to provide special protection from fire situations, since the fire safety of metal structures is low. It is recommended to install additional casing trim.

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

To many, such a parameter as the shape of the structure will seem unimportant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment and the convenience of its use during operation. The furnace unit is:

The last type is the most common and easy to use. With this configuration, the furnace has corner zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many believe that a rectangular design best preserves the shape and frame of the stove.

The shape of the stove also affects the uniformity of heating of both the structure itself and the heated room. When one element of equipment is heated to maximum, the heating of another decreases. This, in turn, ensures uniform heating of the room and a stable balance of heat flows.

Proper heating of the structure affects its mechanical stability. Thus, a round or cylindrical oven is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heat, so it has denser walls. A rectangular oven is considered heat resistant because it has cold corners.

Options for a do-it-yourself stove structure

Metal sauna stoves, one might say, already have a long history, so over such a long period craftsmen have developed and proposed various types of designs.

The simplest option is a metal stove made from an iron barrel. To do this, the bottom and lid of the barrel are cut off, resulting in a cylinder. Up to half of this cylinder is loaded with bricks placed on edge. A grate is placed on top of them. The remaining half of the barrel is filled 2/3 with stones. After this, the chimney is removed and the lid is installed on the stove. This method of making a stove, although simple, is inconvenient to use.

For a small bathhouse, you can build a compact-sized stove-heater using sheet steel. The inner surface of this structure is lined with bricks. The firebox, its walls are laid out in half a brick, the chimney - in one quarter. This type of stove is easy to make and use. To warm up the room you will need some fuel raw materials. A comfortable room temperature will be achieved after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whichever design option is chosen, You will need to prepare the following material:

• sheet steel, the thickness of which is not less than 8 mm;
• metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• rod 10 mm thick;
• grate;
• latches and doors for the combustion chamber, heater and blower;
• water tap;
• two meters of pipe. Of this, 90 cm will be used for the firebox, 60 cm for the tank, and 50 cm for the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, you can make doors for structural elements yourself.

Concerning tools, then in our work we will use a grinder and a welding machine.

Option 1: stove design with a closed heater type

In this type of construction it is assumed closed view of the heater, therefore, to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

A design such as a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove has the following steps:

• We take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut an opening in it for the blower. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
• Inside the pipe, on the side of the opening, we weld fastenings for the grate, using any metal plate with eyes.
• We move on to arranging the firebox: we cut a 25x20 cm opening, weld the fasteners for the heater rods. We will use rods 1 cm in diameter, or specially sold grates for a circular oven.
• On the opposite wall of the heater we cut a hole through which steam is supplied.
• We fill the heater with stones suitable for this type of construction. Soapstone and diabase have good properties that are combined with a metal surface; flint, granite, and mica-containing stones should be excluded.
• We cut a hole in the stove cover for the chimney pipe and install it.

This completes the manufacturing process of the stove structure. But still, the craftsmen propose to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, take a piece of large diameter pipe and weld in a water tap. We prepare the lid for the water tank: take the lid of the required size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part we cut out an opening for the chimney, and then weld it onto the tank. The second part will be removable, so we weld hinges and a handle to it.

Option 2: stove with an open type heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet it is easy and simple to build such a unit. His the design is a pipe divided into two compartments using a grate. The upper compartment is the firebox, while the lower one acts as an ash pan. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which you can add fuel, provide air supply, and remove combustion products.

At the far, plugged end of the pipe we weld the chimney pipe, its diameter is 100 mm.

We weld a metal box on top of the cylindrical body, which is filled with stones. The curved chimney elbow allows for maximum heating of the stones, since this increases the contact surface of the hot pipe with the heater.

The described version of the furnace structure can easily be made in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, you will need sheets of metal for the blanks, not a pipe.

As a rule, such a stove requires a water heating tank. In a rectangular oven ways to place the tank many, here are just a few:

• can be done on either side;
• attach on top;
• make a water jacket on several sides;
• install pipes for cold water supply and hot water intake.

A convenient way to obtain hot water is to install a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. You can make such a water heater yourself, or you can buy a ready-made factory one, which has a pipe of a standard size and diameter. In the latter case, the tank crashes into the chimney, its vertical part above the stove body, and pipes for water supply and intake are connected. Such a tank, with sufficient volume, can serve as a water reservoir or simply be a heat exchanger connected to the main water tank.

Option 3: open metal stove with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complex to implement, but this is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

This design is metal body with internal brickwork. At the same time, the requirements for steel thickness are reduced: you can take a sheet 2 mm thick. For brickwork you will need fireclay bricks and mortar. A special ready-made dry mixture for furnace work is suitable as a solution. It is mixed taking into account the requirements of the instructions for use.

A do-it-yourself metal sauna stove has the following manufacturing technology:

1. Preparing the base: We weld the legs and heel pads to it. This will make the furnace structure stable.

Diagram of a metal sauna stove with an additional brick wall

• We lay the first continuous brick row on this base. For the remaining rows we adhere to the following parameters: near the firebox we place half a brick, in the area of ​​the chimney ducts - a quarter.
• When the blower chamber is ready, install cast iron grate , placing it between the firebox and the ash pan. To create openings for the loading window and the blower, you can use metal corners measuring 20 x 20. It is important to ensure the evenness of the row seams.
• We place it above the combustion chamber metal grille made of rods , the diameter of which is 12 mm. We will then place stones on this grid.
• When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave it on the right or left opening We will load stones into it, take them out for cleaning, and also splash water into this window during the bathing procedure to create steam.
• Chimney channel It is advisable to make it tortuous. This will ensure maximum heating of the entire furnace body and complete combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns upward, on the back side, we create an inspection window. We install a valve in it, which allows us to retain heat for a long time after the end of the combustion process.
• We lay the top two rows of bricks solid, leaving opening for installation of a chimney pipe , through which combustion products will be discharged.
• After finishing the brickwork, give the mortar time to set and dry. After this, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal body. In our situation, this case resembles a kind of case. A corner, 20 x 20, placed along the joints, makes it easier to weld and make the seams airtight.
• Carrying out the workpiece anterior wall , do not forget to cut openings for the ash pan and the loading chamber of the firebox. We install the front wall in place and weld the hinges for the doors. We make the door leaves 10 mm wider on each side than the prepared openings - this will ensure tightness when closing. You can lay an asbestos seal around the perimeter of the door or along its entire inner surface.
• In the side wall blank we also provide an opening for the prepared part in the brickwork windows for steam generation . To do this, we install a metal door with sealing material. It is advisable to make it open downwards, install a cold handle for opening during the bath procedure, when there is a need to supply steam.
• Cut out on the oven lid hole for chimney pipe , after which we weld the lid into place. Next, we install chimney channel and scald it.
• We install a metal sauna stove with our own hands in the chosen place and load it with stones.

Rules for installing a metal sauna stove

• install a metal sauna stove with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the sauna;
• the structure must be located in close proximity to the chimney;
• making a special foundation, a base made of refractory materials for placing the furnace;
• the wall of the room near which the metal sauna stove is located should be finished with sheet fire-resistant material.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: photo drawings

Metal sauna stove: advantages and disadvantages, drawings, photos, 3 options for making a metal unit with your own hands. Video instruction.