home » Interesting » Garden rose: planting and care, growing rules. Caring for the queen of flowers - the rose How to properly care for roses in the open ground

Garden rose: planting and care, growing rules. Caring for the queen of flowers - the rose How to properly care for roses in the open ground

In the best part of our garden, but not everything is so simple.

Our queen is not only beautiful, but also very capricious, strict and whimsical, however, like all real queens, she requires constant attention.

She may not forgive even our small mistakes. Therefore, it is very important for us to also know what the queen of the garden loves and does not tolerate, how to take care of her appearance, how to feed and water her, how she reproduces and how to prepare her for winter so that her ladyship does not freeze.

How care for roses? This question is asked by all beginning gardeners.

Many of them are guided by the advice of friends and make many mistakes.

The proper process should take into account the recommendations of experienced gardeners - only in this case will your beauties delight you with their fragrance and exquisite appearance for up to 10 years (that’s how long a rose grows in one place).

Events calendar

Spring work
March	Start of removing winter shelters (from the end of March). If it’s a little cold in March, move it to April.
April	Removal of winter shelters (complete removal by April 30). Prevention of bushes, sanitary and anti-aging pruning of roses in spring, weed removal, loosening and mulching. Installation of supports and garter. Formative pruning of freshly planted seedlings.
May	Pruning for flowering, loosening, removing weeds, applying fertilizers, preventive treatment of soil and bushes against diseases.
Summer care
June	Time of first flowering. The second preventive treatment for diseases. Removing faded flowers, watering, loosening, weeding. Applying fertilizers after flowering.
July	A month of abundant flowering. Removing faded flowers, watering, loosening. Application of fertilizers (in the second half of the month).
August	Summer preventive pruning (removal of diseased shoots and wilted flowers), watering, loosening, weeding.
Autumn rose care
September	Application of fertilizers (beginning of the month). Start preparing plants for winter. Stop any feeding and remove up to 1/3 of all leaves, starting from the bottom of the bush (at the end of the month).
October	Sanitary pruning (after setting the temperature to -5-7° C), final watering and hilling. At the end of the month, insulate the plants and construct winter shelters.
November	Complete removal of all remaining leaves and debris. When snow falls, it is good to compact it near the bushes (to prevent rodents from entering the roses).

Rose care After winter, it begins with cleaning winter shelters. They need to be removed gradually, from the ends, starting when the threat of frost below -10° C has passed.

At night (and during the day in cold winds), the ends of the shelters must be closed again.

When should roses be fully opened in spring? As soon as stable warm weather sets in, all covering material can be removed.

Watering the beauties

Rosette is an extremely moisture-loving plant, but watering care for roses depends on the phase of plant development. It needs the most abundant watering during the growing season (when the buds stretch, the growth of leaves and shoots and the first blooming of flowers begin).

At this time, the plant especially needs nutrients. And without water, fertilizers will not be absorbed; if there is little moisture, all fertilizing will be ineffective.

For irrigation, use settled water heated under natural conditions. Cold water from a hose or well will not work - cool watering can make the roses sick. Water your beauties once a week (twice in hot weather). Water consumption is 5-10 l (for ground-blooded plants), 10-15 l (for climbing plants) per bush.

After watering, loosen the soil well. Otherwise, a dense crust will form on the ground. It will not allow the roots of our roses to breathe.

But you can get rid of constant loosening by mulching (leaf humus, chopped straw, rotted manure, tree bark or peat are ideal for mulch).

Autumn watering of roses. Roses' need for water decreases at this time. If the autumn turns out to be rainy, we stop watering in September.

In warm, dry weather, water the roses once weekly, but reduce the volume of water by 3-5 liters.

A very important stage is pre-winter watering. Before the onset of cold weather, we need to water the roses very generously - at least 30 liters per bush.

Caring for roses - fertilizing

All fertilizers can be divided into natural (organic) and mineral (obtained artificially). Mineral supplements must be combined with organic matter.

And don't overdo it with fertilization. Their excess can weaken the plant.

Mineral supplements

The most important elements for proper care of roses: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and a number of other microelements.

♦ Nitrogen. Thanks to him, roses have leaves and shoots that grow well. Roses especially need it at the beginning of the growing season (spring), after pruning and before new flowering. Nitrogen application: early May-early August.

♦ Potassium. Responsible for the general condition of the plant. It is especially necessary for roses during flowering, budding and in preparation for winter. Application of potassium: June-October.

♦ Phosphorus. It helps the rose grow strong shoots, develop a strong root system and ensures the quality of flowering. Application of phosphorus: June-September. Please note that phosphorus can only be absorbed by roses in combination with potassium.

Proper feeding of roses requires the addition of other microelements: magnesium (responsible for the rich color of flowers), iron, boron and manganese (increase the plant’s resistance to diseases).

Before applying any fertilizer, do not forget to water the plants - fertilizers in dry soil will not be effective in caring for roses.

First feeding. It is done in the spring during the swelling and growth of the buds. Fertilizers (nitrophoska, ammophos or diammophos) are applied into the groove at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush (consumption 30 g per bush).
Second feeding. It is carried out in the first phase of budding. You can use the same fertilizers or make a mixture of saltpeter (15 g), superphosphate (30 g) and potassium salt (20 g).
Third feeding. It is carried out after the first flowering. In the second half of summer, choose complex fertilizers marked “autumn”. Superphosphate, azophoska, potassium magnesium and potassium nitrate are good. Do this feeding once every 14-20 days until the end of August.
Fourth feeding. It must be done in mid-September. It is best to use potassium magnesia.

Fertilizers for roses in the first year of life. If you have made the planting holes correctly (with the addition of a nutrient mixture), caring for roses in the first year of development will not require additional feeding.

And if the planting took place in ordinary garden soil, in the first year of life, feed the beauty with organic matter; mineral fertilizers are not yet required.

For a young rose, watering with a growth stimulator (sodium humate) will be useful.

Foliar fertilizer for roses. Roses can also receive nutrition through the aerial part. Spraying with nutrients is carried out if the plant is weakened.

In order not to burn the leaves, the nutrient solution is prepared twice as weak as compared to conventional feeding. The procedure is carried out in the evening or early morning.

Organic fertilizers

In the spring and early summer, it would be ideal to use a liquid infusion of mullein.

In the second decade of summer and autumn, wood ash is perfect for caring for roses.

You can also use these two components: add manure (2 kg) and ash (1 kg) to a bucket of water. Let it sit for several days and water the roses at the rate of ½ bucket per bush.

To eliminate the smell, sprinkle the flooded soil with wood ash or chalk and loosen it to a depth of 5 cm.

It is strictly forbidden to introduce fresh bird droppings or cow manure to roses (especially after spring planting). For young seedlings, such fertilizer is destructive. To get a good remedy, you should dilute 1 liter of mushy manure (litter) in 10 liters of water. The infusion is fermented for about 10 days.

Calcium is also very important for roses. It is found in chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, slaked lime and organic matter.

Calcium neutralizes acidified soils and creates a favorable environment for the activity of bacteria that decompose nutritional supplements.

An organic fertilizer for caring for roses, “Deoxidizer,” has been created based on calcium.

Forming and pruning roses

How to prune roses. Roses undergo several types of pruning, depending on the age of the seedling, plant variety and period.

◊ Sanitary pruning. First, we cut off all rotten, broken and diseased branches. Pruning is carried out from the side of the outer bud so that there are fewer branches growing deeper into the bush.

Pay attention to the cut! On strong shoots it is white; if the branches are frozen, the cut will be brown, in which case we cut it to a healthy place.

Then we cut back weak, unproductive and thin shoots.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring after removing the covers, in the summer if necessary, and in the fall before the roses go to winter rest.

◊ Formative pruning of roses. With this operation we will give the bush a beautiful, symmetrical and lush look. It is especially important to carry out the formation in the first year of a flower’s life after planting.

Seedlings are usually sold already trimmed - they just need to remove unusable shoots. If the branches are long, we shorten them, preserving several buds on each.

In summer, we pinch young roses at 3-4 leaves (this is especially important when caring for hybrid tea roses). The first buds also need to be removed.

In August we stop the formation - the young rose can be given the opportunity to bloom in order to prevent the development of young branches - the young shoots will not have time to get stronger before the cold weather.

◊ Anti-aging pruning. In all roses, the main shoots weaken their flowering as they age. And every year fresh, young branches grow.

To ensure abundant flowering and long life for roses, rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

Old shoots are pruned before the young branch begins to grow. You can remove all shoots older than 4 years (it is not advisable to leave them).

There are some differences in pruning different types of roses:

Hybrid tea. Mandatory circumcision. All old shoots are removed, the middle branches are cut in half, and the young ones are cut to 3-5 buds.
Floribunda. This species requires combined pruning. In the first year of life, shoots are left with 3-5 buds; in subsequent years they are cut to one third of their length; three-year-old branches must be cut completely.
Climbing large-flowered. When caring for roses of climbing varieties, only five-year-old branches are removed.
Ramblers. These species bloom once on mature, overwintered shoots. They should be pruned only after flowering has ended.

◊ Pruning for flowering. This procedure is aimed at ensuring good flowering. It is done taking into account the age of the escape.

Rose buds differ in their degree of maturity and ability to bloom. The upper ones produce early, but not large flowers.

And with strong pruning, short shoots awaken the lower buds to life, from which large, beautiful flowers bloom, suitable for cutting.

There are types of roses (for example, Ramblers), for which it is important to preserve the entire length of the branches. They bloom only on old shoots from last year.

Pruning for flowering can be of three types:

Strong. With this method, one third of the shoot height is left. This pruning is necessary to stimulate the growth of branches from the base of the bush. But you cannot do heavy pruning every year - it weakens the plant.
Moderate. This pruning leaves almost half of the shoot.
Weak. Cuts branches to 1/3 of the shoot height.

Roses must be pruned using sharp pruning shears. The cut is made at an angle of 45º 5-6 cm above the intended bud.

The ideal cut is smooth, without cracks or burrs. Sometimes, after pruning, strong bushes begin to grow 2-3 shoots from one bud at once. We leave the central one and remove the side ones.

Treat the cuts with garden varnish. This will protect open wounds from flies and rot. Garden varnish can be prepared in several ways:

Mix crushed rosin (3 parts) into melted paraffin (6 parts). Bring the mixture to a boil and pour in vegetable oil (2 parts). Boil the resulting mass for about 10 minutes.
Separately heat rosin, nigrol and paraffin (1 kg each). Then mix the mixtures into one and mix well.
Add natural drying oil (230 ml) and liquid hot paraffin (5 kg) to melted rosin (1 kg).

Care of roses for winter holidays

There is no need to rush with this procedure when caring for roses. With a gradual decrease in temperature in the plant, a concentration of internal forces occurs. Roses harden themselves.

But, if you miss the time of covering (this means the temperature drops below -5° C), the rose shoots will freeze from the inside, and in the spring they will rot.

Optimal times for covering roses for the winter: late October - early November (for the middle zone).

Not all roses need to be protected from frost. Old garden varieties (with the exception of Bourbon, Chinese and tea varieties) do not need shelter even in very severe winters.

Such species bloom once and quickly finish growing. Their wood manages to prepare itself for the cold.

And almost all modern species need to be covered (with the exception of wrinkled rose hybrids).

Plant preparation

Our roses need to remove the entire lower part of the leaves and dry shoots. Trim the stems. This must be done in advance so that the wounds heal.

First we will add root-strengthening fertilizer:

In August. Nutrient solution: superphosphate (25 g) per 10 liters of water, potassium sulfate (10 g), borax (3.5 g), boric acid (2.5 g) per 4 square meters. m.
In the first half of September. Nutrient solution: for 10 liters of water, monophosphate or potassium sulfate (16 g) and superphosphate (15 g).

In September, soil loosening and plant formation stop (so that young shoots do not develop). If they grow, they should be pinched.

All autumn buds must be carefully bent at the base (so that the rose does not exhaust its strength before wintering).

Caring for roses during this period consists of hilling with loose soil or leaf humus 10 cm high.

Additionally, you can insulate the roots of plants with a mixture of organic matter and fallen leaves with the addition of coniferous spruce branches.

The main shelter is made by the end of October-beginning of November.

Covering methods

The most optimal method is air-dry. To do this, shields made of boards in the form of a pitched roof are installed over the bushes. The shields are covered with a film on top, creating a greenhouse effect.

If the winter is not expected to be particularly snowy, but cold, a layer of snow is poured onto the shields.

The total height of the entire canopy will be about half a meter (so that trimmed rose bushes can be freely placed under it).

In a similar way, you can create a shelter in the form of a small greenhouse based on a wire frame. In this case, the roses need to be additionally insulated with covering material (on top of the film).

Many varieties of roses require additional insulation measures. Especially young seedlings.

♦ Hybrid tea. For these roses, temperatures from -10°C are destructive. In the pre-winter care of roses, the bushes are additionally covered with light frames made of slats, which are lined with corrugated cardboard, burlap or polypropylene.

♦ Floribunda. They are more resistant to cold than tea leaves. Mature, healthy bushes can do without additional shelters. Young seedlings are placed in cardboard boxes without a bottom. The inside of the bush is lined with crumpled newspapers, old bark or wood chips.

♦ Climbing. Such varieties require covering of shoots along the entire length. In young bushes, the lashes are removed from the supports in advance (while they remain flexible).

It is better to do this during the October hilling period. The removed lashes are placed between coniferous spruce branches and covered with non-woven material.

If the lashes have grown very large, they are not removed from the supports. Right along with the trellises, they are covered with burlap or wrapped in thick paper for 2/3 of the length.

Our roses are ready for the winter holidays. While they are sleeping and gaining strength, let's get acquainted with our beauties.

This will be discussed in the next article.

See you soon, dear readers!

Since ancient times, the rose has been considered an emblem of love and a standard of beauty. She is deservedly called the queen of flowers. The huge variety of garden roses that currently exists is entirely the merit of the long and painstaking work of breeders who, through crossing, achieved interesting forms, frost-resistant and remontant varieties. What could be more beautiful than living weaving hedges of roses or flowering shrubs planted along the paths in your summer cottage?

Let's look at how to care for roses all year round below.

Caring for roses in spring, summer, autumn.

Spring.

Prevention of diseases. If you know that your roses in the garden are often susceptible to pests (for example, aphids, mites, leaf rollers, etc.), it is better to treat them preventively with an insecticidal agent.

Summer.

Autumn.

Preparing for winter. Caring for roses in the fall involves properly preparing the plants for winter. You need to stop loosening the soil, reduce watering, and leave only weeding. It is advisable to carry out preventive methods against pests and various diseases with preparations containing copper.

Saturday, September 06, 2014 02:27 + to quote book

Having planted roses in your garden for the first time, you will very soon realize that this is not a flower that you can plant and forget about. The capricious plant places high demands on the location and planting conditions, as well as on care measures. So that you do not waste time and do not look for information in a mass of disparate sources, we will try in one article to cover all the issues related to planting, care, and methods of propagating roses.

Garden rose: care
The main factors for the successful cultivation of the “queen of flowers”

Roses are light-loving plants, so the best place to grow them would be a well-lit area, preferably facing southeast. In this case, the gentle morning rays are not so hot as to “burn” the plant, but also bright enough to form a large number of flowers. Open areas illuminated by direct sunlight all day are not suitable for roses - in this case, many buds also appear, but they quickly fade, their color fades, and the petals burn at the edges, dry out and lose their decorative effect. In the shade, roses develop even worse - they bloom poorly, form long and thin shoots, and are also often affected by fungal diseases and pests.

Areas exposed to northern and north-eastern winds are also not suitable for roses, the cultivation and care of which must combine the protection of delicate stems with buildings, trees or shrubs. However, you should not plant roses too close to large bushes and trees, the roots of which will take away nutrition and moisture, create a “deaf” shadow and, accordingly, impede the normal development of the “queen of flowers”. Poor lighting will provoke the appearance of “blind” shoots without buds, and high humidity will cause diseases of powdery mildew and black spot.

Soil for roses

Most suitable for the proper development of roses is light loamy soil, rich in humus, the loose structure of which is easily permeable to air and water. Roses also develop remarkably well on fertile black soil. It is worse if the site is dominated by sandy and sandy loam soils, which heat up excessively in the summer and, on the contrary, freeze instantly in the winter.

Such sudden temperature changes have a detrimental effect on the delicate roots of sensitive roses, therefore, to improve the composition of such soil, rotted manure, peat, lime and turf can be added to it. Clay soils, which “acquire” and retain large amounts of moisture, are also not suitable for growing roses in their pure form. You can bring clay soil closer to ideal if you mix sand, compost, peat, and humus into it.

Preferred temperature

The formation of rose buds, their flowering and growth are significantly influenced by soil and air temperature. The optimal thermal air temperature for roses is between 15-22 °C. At temperatures above 25 °C and rare plantings, the soil begins to overheat, which is undesirable for the rose root system.

To prevent possible unpleasant consequences from overheating, it is advisable to mulch the soil around the bushes with peat, mown grass or humus. The optimal temperature for the soil should be 17-20°C. At lower rates, the ability of the roots to absorb nutrients deteriorates, which naturally leads to a weakening of the plant and the appearance of “blind” shoots.

Roses: planting and caring for seedlings

The right choice of seedlings

In the middle zone, it is recommended to opt for grafted rather than own-rooted seedlings. Grafted plants are characterized by a more developed and powerful root system, excellent winter hardiness and survival rate, better resistance to disease and a large number of flowers on the bushes. However, caring for grafted roses is supplemented by the mandatory removal of wild shoots, the free growth of which can, over time, turn a “thoroughbred” rose into an ordinary rose hip (most often, cultivated varieties of roses are grafted onto it). Self-rooted plants do not need such care.

As for the appearance of seedlings, there are plants on sale with an open or closed root system (in containers or with a lump of peat on the roots). It is preferable to buy seedlings with a closed root - they are less damaged during planting, will grow and bloom faster.

When inspecting seedlings, pay attention to the foliage - it should not be limp or dry. The shoots should also be strong, without cracks or stains. Pay attention to the number of shoots - if there are less than three, then refuse to purchase. If you purchase a seedling with an open root system, then you also have an excellent chance to inspect it - the roots must be intact, without scratches, cracks, or breaks.

Timing for planting seedlings

Roses can be planted both in spring and autumn, before frost begins. Autumn planting is preferable, since such plants have time to take root well before spring and bloom earlier than those planted in spring.

In the middle zone, autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October. If you do this earlier, there is a high probability of waking up dormant buds, which will die when cold weather sets in. Later planting is also unfavorable, since the seedlings may not have time to take root and will inevitably suffer from frost. Correct planting times ensure that after 10-12 days the seedling will begin to form young roots, which will harden before the onset of frost and survive the winter without problems. In spring, such roses begin to rapidly form the root and above-ground parts, and flowering occurs simultaneously with old perennial bushes. In contrast, plants planted in spring bloom on average 2 weeks later and require more attention.

Methods of planting seedlings

Before you start planting seedlings, you need to shorten the roots to 20 cm, and also trim off all broken, lifeless, diseased parts of the root.

The shoots are also trimmed, leaving 3 to 5 buds on each of them.

After this, the plants are planted dry or wet.

Dry method

1. For each plant, dig a hole 50-60 cm wide and 30 cm deep, add organic matter (humus, compost or vermicompost). It is advisable to also add mineral fertilizers (nitrogen - 20g, potassium - 10g, phosphorus - 10g), mixing them with the soil.

2. Seedlings are planted, deepening the root collar below ground level by 2-3 cm. Such a measure will prevent them from drying out during dry and hot periods, and will also ensure a greater degree of survival.

Having lowered the seedling into the hole, carefully straighten the roots and gradually cover them with soil, carefully compacting it.

3. After this, the plant is watered and then covered with earth to a depth of 15-20 cm.

Wet method

1. Dig a hole in the same way as with the dry method.

2. Pour a bucket of water into the hole with a dissolved heteroauxin tablet or sodium humate in such a concentration that the water takes on the color of weakly brewed tea.

3. Lower the seedling into the hole and, holding it with one hand, pour the prepared soil mixture directly into the water with the other. The soil, falling into the water, evenly fills the space between the roots, leaving no voids. Periodically shake the seedling and compact the soil. With this planting method, watering at the end of the event is no longer required. The next day, most often the ground sags a little, then the seedling is raised a little, the required amount of soil is added and the planting site is compacted.

4. Hill up the seedling to 10-15 cm.

Regardless of how the planting was carried out, for the next few weeks, while the rose has not yet had time to take root, it will need high soil moisture. Therefore, during this period, watering should be especially abundant. When the seedling begins to grow, it is unearthed and mulched with straw or peat.

Garden rose: care

Having planted a rose seedling, you need to learn how to take care of it in order to end up with a lush, luxuriously blooming bush. Let's consider the main stages of this care.

Bush formation

Proper formation of the bush promotes its branching, increased flowering and makes it easier to care for. Formation is carried out in the first year of the plant’s life and consists of removing all emerging buds, as well as pinching all shoots after the fourth or fifth leaf.

The shape of the bushes can be spreading, compressed or arbitrary.

In spreading varieties, central vertical shoots are left during formation in order to reduce the width of the bush as much as possible and facilitate subsequent care for it. The cut is made on a bud directed inside the bush.

In compressed bushes, on the contrary, the internal shoots are cut off to make the plant visually more voluminous.

Shoots that are ahead of others in development must be pinched after the appearance of the fourth leaf. This stimulates the emergence of new, symmetrically developed processes.

After the bush takes the desired shape, pinching should be stopped so that the rose can bloom normally.

Pruning roses

Caring for roses in the garden involves regular work to remove old and diseased shoots. These actions, called pruning, stimulate the appearance of new shoots and give the bush a beautiful shape.

Old shoots are cut with pruning shears 0.5-0.8 cm above a healthy, well-developed bud looking outward of the bush. There are spring, summer and autumn pruning.

Spring pruning is performed after removing the rose from its winter shelter, as soon as the plant begins to grow.

Summer pruning involves removing faded buds, “blind” and damaged shoots, as well as wild growth from grafted plants.

When cutting off faded buds, the cut is made between the second and third leaves from the top, on a developed bud directed outward, which can produce a new flowering shoot.

Wild growth should be cut off as soon as it appears. To do this, the root collar is freed from the ground and the shoots are cut straight from the base. Cutting off the growth at ground level has the opposite effect - even greater growth of unwanted shoots.

Autumn pruning is the removal of long shoots, buds and fruits.

Disease and pest control

Caring for roses necessarily involves the fight against emerging diseases, as well as their prevention. In order to prevent the death of roses from pests and diseases, inspect the bushes more often and start fighting at the first signs of disease. Try to take the following preventive measures:
Plant plants with a strong scent that repels pests near the roses - marigolds, sage, decorative onions.
Periodically water the rose bushes with infusion of onion, garlic, calendula, and yarrow.
Remove and burn all leaves affected by black spot.
Starting in mid-summer, dust the bushes with wood ash.
Monitor the density of plantings - excessive crowding leads to the occurrence of fungal diseases.

Roses: care and propagation - the reason to create a rose garden

Having learned to grow roses, you will very soon want to purchase more and more new varieties in order to create not just a small chaotic flower garden, but a real rose garden. And to do this you need to have information about the reproduction of the “queen of flowers”. In this case, spending on new bushes will be significantly reduced.

The easiest way to propagate roses is by rooting cuttings, layering or dividing the bush.

Almost all varieties of roses can be propagated by cuttings, the main thing is that the material is woody, that is, not too young. Green young cuttings take root very difficult.

For rooting, cuttings can be taken in spring and autumn. One-year straight shoots with 3-5 buds, 10-12 cm long are selected. Autumn cuttings overwinter in the basement in a bucket of sand, and are planted only in the spring. Spring cuttings are planted immediately in the ground, covering them with a glass jar to create the necessary humidity. Even when leaves appear, it is better not to rush to remove the jar, otherwise the seedling may dry out. It is better to wait until the fall, when you are sure that the cuttings will root.

Roses are propagated by layering in the spring, without waiting for the buds to open. In this case, the shoots of an adult bush are pressed to the ground and fixed with staples. They are sprinkled with earth on top. By autumn, the cuttings take root, and next spring they can be separated from the mother plant.

It is very easy to propagate a rose by dividing the bush. This method is practiced in autumn or spring, preferably before buds open. To do this, the root system of the bush is removed from the ground and the plant is cut into several parts with a sharp pruner or knife. In this case, each resulting element must have at least one shoot and part of the root system to it.

In addition to those we have discussed, there are two more ways to propagate roses - using seeds and grafting. However, these methods are more complex and require certain knowledge and experience.

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The spring of 2017 presented gardeners with troubles: the snow has melted for a long time, but there is still no real warmth. In such a situation, it is difficult to give advice on when to open roses and when to prune them after winter: in some summer cottages it is already time, in others it is still too damp and cold. We offer a procedure for caring for roses in spring. If you are growing any special varieties of roses, you will need more specific recommendations.

Airing roses in the garden. First of all, open ground roses need ventilation. You should not immediately, as soon as it warms up for a while, completely remove the winter shelters from the roses: there is still a danger of return frosts. Therefore, we raise the shelters so that fresh air can penetrate directly to the rose bushes.

When to open roses. We remove winter “houses” for roses as soon as the weather is warm enough and the threat of return frosts is minimal. Raise climbing and climbing roses onto supports. Until pruning, these will be temporary supports.

Medicinal pruning. For medicinal pruning of roses, you do not need any special knowledge. The first thing to do is trim off the dead shoots and remove the dry leaves left over from the fall. Then carefully examine the bush. If you notice obviously diseased, weak or damaged shoots, they should be cut out. Don't worry: a stronger plant will quickly produce new healthy shoots.

Pruning roses by variety. More serious pruning than medicinal pruning is carried out depending on the type and variety of roses. Each of them has its own special recommendations. In addition, you can take into account your personal preferences: regulate the growth of climbing and climbing roses, the number of stems in a rose bush, the age and “health state” of the seedling.

Tree trunk care. Remove everything unnecessary from under the plant: remnants of pine needles from the shelter, dry leaves, trimmed parts of the bush, sawdust or peat, which was added to the roots before wintering. Loosen the tree trunk circle. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the surface roots.

Feeding roses. The most optimal would be to use specialized complex fertilizers for roses according to the instructions. Apply fertilizer in the evening, preferably after sunset and so that it does not get on the plant itself. The next day, if necessary, water the plants, but not too much.

Design of the tree trunk circle. Two to three days after applying the fertilizer, re-cover the soil under the bush with mulch. The choice of mulch composition is at your discretion, but the best option, of course, would be humus. Then start decorating the rose bush. You can cover the tree trunk circle with beautiful stones, you can make an interesting border, you can weave a mini-wattle fence. Here you can give free rein to your imagination as a garden designer.

Final preventative pruning of roses. After your rose bush has fully expanded its foliage under the rays of the bright sun, carefully inspect it again. Perhaps some shoots “did not wake up.” We cut them out. Weak, unreliable shoots are cut out. If we notice growth of rootstock shoots on grafted roses, we remove them immediately. If you are not satisfied for one reason or another with the shape, size, or silhouette of the bush, cut off the excess branches. Respecting humanity, of course. And finally, we pluck out unwanted buds on those bushes on which we want to get especially large and luxurious roses.

Rosary plan. If you still don’t have a plan for the arrangement of your roses, now is the time to make one. Preferably in scale and, of course, with the names of rose varieties.

Article provided by the company "Rose Fairy"

Discussion

And someone tried to grow roses from a flower, as they write on the Internet. Supposedly if you stick a stalk into a potato, it will take root quickly?

Comment on the article "Roses in spring: pruning, feeding. Roses in the open ground: 9 things to do in April-May"

Garden roses: planting and care

Most often, cultivated rose hips are classified as such, characterized by abundant flowering. The main advantage of these plants is their high winter hardiness and early flowering, 2-3 weeks before the start of flowering of other species. Being short plants, park roses look very attractive due to their dense foliage and look gorgeous both in single and group plantings.

It is recommended to plant rose bushes, whose life expectancy is on average 20-30 years, in sunny areas, well ventilated on all sides, and the key to successful growth will be nutritious, loose soil. It is better if it is loam with a high percentage of humus. Park roses are planted in the first half of spring or early autumn. During the first three years, a powerful root system and main stems are formed. It is at this time that the plant should be provided with maximum care, which consists of timely watering, infrequent, but plentiful. In this case, the root system grows deeper in search of moisture, which has a positive effect on the winter hardiness of the bush. Consumption for 1 bush is 1.0-1.5 buckets of water. With frequent watering, the formation of surface roots will occur, which are very easily damaged during loosening and do not tolerate frost well.

An important factor in caring for garden roses is regularly loosening the soil near the bushes and applying fertilizer. In the spring, the soil should be fertilized with rotted manure, and in the summer, mineral preparations should be applied.

climbing roses

Such plants are also some varieties of garden roses and are characterized by long branching shoots. Thanks to this quality, they are successfully used in buildings, walls and gazebos. They look great in garden flower arrangements and are the main decorative element when decorating garden structures, arches, columns, pyramids.

The family garden rose grows well in sunny areas, protected from direct sunlight in the afternoon. The soil for planting must be permeable, without close groundwater. In temperate climates, it is better to plant the plant in late September - early October or in the spring, in April - May. Before planting, shoots should be shortened to 15-20 cm, and roots to 30 cm.

Planted plants need to be well watered, hilled up high, covered with film to create greenhouse conditions and ventilated regularly. As soon as the threat of spring frosts has passed, the film can be removed and the area mulched.

Garden rose: planting and care in open ground

The best period for planting garden roses is considered to be autumn (early September - mid-October). If the winters in the growing region are too frosty, roses can be planted in the spring (April - May), waiting until the soil warms up.

A garden rose, the cultivation of which at home requires the use of certain knowledge, needs the correct selection of a place for planting. In this case, the roses planted on it will bloom for a long time, delivering aesthetic pleasure to the owners of the garden and their guests. Garden culture loves an abundance of light; the most optimal would be to place it in an area located away from trees and large bushes and in partial shade in the afternoon. An important factor in the survival and active growth of a flower is the absence of drafts and close groundwater.

Preparations for planting activities should be carried out in advance, about two months in advance. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, you need to form a raised flower bed for the rose garden, otherwise the roots will begin to rot, and the plant will lose its decorative appearance and will have an unhealthy appearance. The area needs to be dug up; for every sq. per meter, add a bucket of garden compost, 30-50 grams of superphosphate and 2 cups of wood ash. Too clayey soil can be diluted with sand.

How to plant a rose correctly

A garden rose, planting and caring for which is a year-round phenomenon, will delight you with abundant flowering if the preparatory measures are carried out correctly. Rose seedlings, which should first have their roots and stems trimmed, are recommended to be immersed in water for several hours.

At this time, you can start preparing the planting hole: the optimal diameter is 40-50 cm, and the depth should slightly exceed the volume of the root system of the seedling along with the earthen ball. A soil mixture should be prepared from the excavated soil and compost in a 3:1 ratio, to which you can additionally add a handful of wood ash. You need to pour a bucket of water with a diluted tablet of heteroauxin (an organic growth stimulant) into the hole, lower the rose seedling into it and, holding it by the stem, sprinkle it with prepared soil. The young plant needs to be hilled to a height of 15 cm, and a circular moat should be formed around it to prevent the flow of water. Also, the planted flower needs to be provided with shading.

In the first year after planting, the bush is formed, so the main care factors at this stage are timely pinching of the ends of the shoots, aimed at stimulating tillering. Also, in order to avoid weakening of the young plant, buds that have begun to form should be removed at the beginning of summer. In the second half of the summer season, the buds should be allowed to ripen and only then removed.

Watering garden roses

Also important factors in caring for the plant are regular watering, fertilizing, loosening and weeding the soil. It is recommended to supply moisture not very often (when the soil on the site dries out), but plentifully. The exception is for newly planted bushes: they should be watered every other day. The water requirement for each adult plant is 10 liters; Depending on the season, this figure may vary. So, in hot and dry summers, you need to water roses more often and more. The supply of moisture should be done moderately, not intensively, so as not to wash away the soil from the roots; Do not use too cold water. The optimal time for watering is morning and evening hours, and the most recommended method of supplying moisture to plants is drip. At the end of summer, after flowering has ended, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, the watering rate should be reduced. Otherwise, there is a high risk of developing fungal infections for a plant such as a garden rose.

Growing such a crop (photo above) in the garden is a real holiday, allowing you to enjoy a beautiful natural creation every day.

Feeding activities

For active development and abundant flowering, garden roses need to be fed. In the first year of planting, this process can be skipped, since the required fertilizers have already been placed in the planting hole. Starting from the second season, fertilizing must be done: at the beginning of the growing season, during the formation of buds, at the end of flowering and before the process of lignification of the stems.

After spring pruning of the bushes twice, with a week's break, 20 g of ammonium nitrate is applied to each square meter of area or During the formation of buds and after flowering, 30 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 10 g of potassium salt should be applied to the same area . In August - September, superphosphate is added to the soil and 30-40 g per square meter. Of organic fertilizers, which should be alternated with mineral ones, it is better to use wood ash and slurry in the rose garden.

How to replant a plant correctly

Garden roses, which require certain knowledge and skills to plant and care for in open ground, tend to grow, causing the bush to lose its decorative properties. Therefore, sometimes plants have to be replanted.

The best time to carry out such an action is October or April. Before replanting, it is advisable to prune a garden bush rose by 20 cm, then you need to tear off all the leaves and remove damaged branches. The plant needs to be dug up with a lump of earth and carefully transferred to a new hole, previously filled with water.

Features of pruning

The most difficult moment in caring for garden roses is pruning, which activates the development of shoots and rich flowering. This procedure is carried out from spring to autumn and has different purposes. During spring pruning, the plant is freed from dried and old shoots with parallel formation of the bush. The summer procedure is considered sanitary: a larger specimen is left from several flower buds. It is also necessary to remove faded flowers and set fruits. In autumn, the plant prepares for future wintering: damaged and dried shoots are cut out.

How to properly prune such a gorgeous plant as a garden rose? Planting and care in the spring is less scary for an inexperienced gardener than pruning a plant. There is nothing complicated in this procedure; it is only important to know some of its subtleties in order to safely handle the plant in the future.

Reproduction methods

Garden roses, planting and caring for which bring great aesthetic pleasure, are propagated in several ways:

cuttings;
layering;
dividing the bush;
vaccination;
offspring;
seeds.

The seed method is most often used for breeding hybrids, new varieties and for propagating wild roses. The harvested seeds are cleaned and immersed in damp sand for 4 months for the purpose of stratification. With the arrival of spring, they are kept in a growth stimulator for some time, after which they are sown.

Propagation by cuttings is often used for park and indoor species and involves rooting cuttings. They are cut at the moment when the garden rose begins to bloom. Planting and care (photo) are not difficult.

Roses can be propagated by grafting. For the rootstock, rose hips are used, which have a highly developed root system and are characterized by high winter hardiness. With quality care, by autumn the grafted rose will turn into a powerful plant with a rich crown, completely ready for transplanting to a new place of growth.

By dividing the bush, only self-rooted plants reproduce. To do this, in the spring (before the buds open) or in the fall, you need to dig up the bush and divide it into parts using a sharp tool. The resulting plants should have one or two shoots and their own roots. The cutting areas should be treated with crushed coal, and the seedlings should be planted according to the usual pattern. During spring propagation, new plants may even delight you with abundant flowering and active growth.

When propagating by layering on a shoot growing from the root collar, it is necessary to make circular cuts in the bark, bend it down and place it in a shallow groove prepared in advance. The branch must be secured with a wire bracket or hook and sprinkled with damp soil, leaving the top on the surface. The latter needs to be tied to a peg, thus giving it a vertical direction of growth. During the summer, the bud above the layer must be kept moist. Only next spring will it be possible to separate young plants such as garden roses from the parent specimen.

Planting and caring for them (photos can be seen in the article) involve watering, fertilizing and timely pruning.

About eustoma and Chinese rose

Against the background of flower crops, the Chinese rose and garden perennial eustoma, grown for cutting, stand out as bright spots.

For example, freshly cut eustoma can stand in a vase with water for about a month. The plant has meter-long stems, strong and graceful. The flowers bloom alternately and are characterized by different shades: white, purple, lilac, pink. When half-opened, eustoma resembles a rose; when fully bloomed, it is very similar to a poppy.

Large bright flowers of a wide range of colors, with an eye of a contrasting color or a border along the edge, simple and double, bright, large - by these signs a Chinese garden rose can be recognized.

Growing and caring for such a plant at home is not particularly difficult; It is important to choose the right planting site, regularly water the plant, remove weeds, loosen the soil and feed it in a timely manner. It is also important to ensure that the hibiscus (Chinese rose) bush does not thicken. You should know that a Chinese rose flower only lives for a day, but with vigorous flowering this is unnoticeable. It is only important to remove faded flowers in a timely manner.

Diseases and pests

Roses, like any plant, can be susceptible to disease and invasion by harmful insects. Unfavorable growth conditions are one of the factors that weaken the plant’s immunity. More often than others, roses are affected by rust, powdery mildew, chlorosis and black spot. Fungal diseases are treated with fungicides: 1% suspension and 3% solution of copper sulfate. Chlorosis, which causes yellowing of the bush, develops due to a lack of nutrients in the soil, including iron. In this case, by conducting a soil analysis, you should find out which element is missing and eliminate the cause by adding its salts to the soil.

Among insects, the garden rose, planting and caring for which is a constant and responsible process, can be damaged by sucking (mites, aphids, whiteflies, cicadas, scale insects) and gnawing (sawfly larvae, beetles, caterpillars) pests. Both cause enormous damage to plants. The first ones pierce the ground parts of the bush and suck out the cell sap. As a result, life processes in the plant are disrupted, leading to the death of shoots, curling of leaves and their falling off.

The activity of gnawing pests is aimed at disrupting the integrity of plant parts and leads to slower growth, poor flowering and loss of decorative characteristics. You can fight pests after they appear, or you can take preventive measures and treat rose bushes with Rogor, Actellik, and Karbofos insecticides. This must be done before the buds swell. An effective folk remedy is a solution of 2 g of kerosene diluted in 10 liters of water. In the fall, after pruning, plant debris must be collected and destroyed, and the bushes and soil must be treated with the above insecticides.

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