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Caring for raspberries in July. High-quality care and pruning of raspberries in August. When to plant raspberries

RASPBERRY IN AUGUST-SEPTEMBER. PLANTING AND CARE

It is best to plant raspberries in late summer - from mid-August to mid-September. The soil is improved by adding rotted compost (1-2 buckets per plant). Deoxidize with ash (a liter jar under a bush) or add a glass of lime. Planting holes or trenches should be well saturated with water so that the plants are planted in the mud. Make mounds, spread the roots over them (broken or dry ones should be cut out first) and cover them with dry soil. In the trench, the bushes are planted on mounds located 80 cm from each other. Then the trench is completely covered with soil. After planting, the soil is not compacted, but only lightly pressed around the raspberry stems.

Raspberry planting material should be shortened immediately upon purchase, leaving the stems only 20-25 cm high. If you are planting young shoots from your plantation, then they should also be shortened to the same height before planting. Otherwise, the leaves, evaporating moisture, will dry out the stem, which is not supplied with moisture until the bush has taken root and sucking roots appear.
Several different varieties should be planted, since raspberries require cross-pollination. In addition, you need to have varieties of different ripening periods in your raspberry garden.
In the future, no more than 4 young shoots are left in the bush in addition to last year’s 4 stems. If you leave more than 4 young shoots at the beginning of summer, the bushes become very thick, which leads, on the one hand, to poor lighting and, consequently, to a drop in yield, and on the other, to the spread of fungal diseases.
If you grow raspberries in rows, you will definitely need to tie up the stems, otherwise they will begin to bend towards the soil under the weight of berries or wet leaves, and this can lead to breakage of the stem at the base, which is especially common in strong winds. To hold the stems in a vertical position, two or three horizontal trellises made of strong wire or fiberglass cord are pulled, which are secured to stakes driven into the ground at a distance of 2-3 m from each other.

If you make two such fences at a distance of 40 cm from each other on both sides of the plantings, then you don’t have to tie the raspberries to the trellises. If there is only one fence, then you will have to tie the stems to each of the horizontal trellises. The fences can be extended to a width of approximately 50-60 cm. Last year's shoots from which we will harvest can be tied to one side, and there will be enough space left for the emerging young shoots. It will not be shaded by fruiting branches. As they grow, young shoots should be tied to the trellises of the second fence. This way you will separate last year's and young shoots. This makes caring for plants much easier.
To prevent raspberries from creeping out of the designated area, you must either dig slate to a depth of 30 cm and limit the plantings on both sides, or every spring and autumn cut boundary lines along the plantings using a spade bayonet. But you can do it differently - leave a turf about 40 cm wide on each side along the raspberry plantings, on which you constantly walk, trampling the grass. Raspberries do not like dense soil and will not spread their roots to a trampled area.
If, nevertheless, the growth appears in the wrong place, it should be removed by cutting it with a sharp shovel and tearing it out by the roots. It is useless to cut raspberry shoots with pruning shears, as they will grow even thicker.
Raspberries go well with apple, pear, and plum trees, but they cannot tolerate cherries at all: even when planted 2-3 m from them, raspberries begin to wither, become stunted, and bear fruit poorly. Raspberries should not be planted close to sea buckthorn and black currant, since all these plants have roots in the same layer of soil. The sea buckthorn will gradually drive the raspberries out of their place, and the raspberries will sprout in the middle of the blackcurrant bushes, suppressing the latter.
You can’t plant raspberries next to strawberries, and not only because their roots are located at the same depth, but also because they have common diseases and pests. It is not recommended to plant a raspberry plantation near tomatoes and potatoes.
With any planting method, raspberries should not be kept in one place for more than 8-10 years.

Raspberry pruning

A biological feature of raspberries is the death of two-year-old fruit-bearing shoots. They are cut out immediately after harvesting. Moreover, as low as possible, without leaving stumps.
At the same time, weak, diseased, broken annual shoots are cut out. It is considered the norm to leave 8-12 shoots per 1 linear meter for fruiting next year. plantings. All cut branches must be removed from the site and burned. For varieties with tall shoots and a leaning top, supports are needed, the type of which depends on the planting method.
In early spring, the underdeveloped tops of shoots left for fruiting are shortened by 10-20 cm to a well-developed bud.

Raspberry shelter

Due to late flowering, raspberries are not afraid of spring frosts, but in winter they sometimes freeze. The best protection against frost, temperature changes and winds is a snowdrift. Therefore, in September - October, while the stems retain their flexibility, they are bent down, positioned at a height of 30-40 cm from the surface. Falling snow covers the stems, protecting them from low temperatures, wind, and sunlight. If there is not enough snow, it is collected from paths, free areas of the garden and sprinkled with raspberries. To prevent it from “flowing” with drifting snow on the crust, the latter must be disturbed by wandering through open areas of the garden (preferably with a wooden rake). The crust must also be destroyed so that when the snowdrift settles, the stems are not damaged. In February-March, the bent stems emerging from under the snow must immediately be covered again to protect them from the effects of scorching sun rays. The shoots of winter-hardy varieties are not bent down or covered with snow, but they must be tied in the form of a dense sheaf around a stake so that they are not blown around by the wind and the tissue does not dry out. At the end of March - in April, after the snow melts, the stems are freed, allowing them to independently take on a natural semi-vertical position.

After harvesting raspberries, the harvest for next year begins, so it is very important to properly prepare raspberries for winter.

Raspberries, grown in a two-year cycle, require close attention in late summer. To ensure a bountiful harvest next year, several measures need to be taken:

feed the raspberries;
prune old branches;
treat against diseases and pests;
cover for the winter.

Raspberry feeding

Preparing raspberries for the end of the season begins in August - it is at this time that the plant needs potassium and phosphorus. These microelements help prepare young shoots for wintering: the bark is strengthened, buds are formed, and the frost resistance of raspberries increases.

It is best to use ash or ash solution. If August is humid, it rains and the weather is cool, then you need to add 100 grams of wood ash under each bush. If the weather is dry and hot, then it is better to prepare an ash solution: pour 1 glass of ash with 1 liter of boiling water and let it brew for several hours. Dilute the resulting infusion in 10 liters of water and water the raspberries at the rate of 1 bucket per bush, while the soil in the raspberry garden should be moist.

Superphosphate is applied to the soil in dry form and then incorporated

Ash can be replaced with mineral fertilizers: superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The soil under the bushes must first be loosened or dug up to a depth of no more than 10 cm, then, retreating 20 cm from the center of the bush, scatter 50 grams of superphosphate and 40 grams of potassium sulfate. After applying the fertilizer, you need to loosen the soil again.

Potassium sulfate is a chlorine-free fertilizer that helps increase the frost resistance of raspberries

In October or November, with the onset of constant frosts, several buckets of rotted manure or compost are scattered under the raspberry bushes; this will protect the root system from the cold if the winter has little snow.

Trimming

After collecting all the berries, the old fruit-bearing branches are immediately cut out, without waiting for autumn and leaf fall. In addition to old branches, you need to remove diseased and thin branches, leaving on each bush from 5 to 8 young shoots of the current year.

Fruit-bearing raspberry shoots are cut out flush with the ground, leaving no stumps.

In September and October it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying against pests and diseases. The biological preparations Farmayod and Fitolavin, which are diluted according to the instructions, cope well with fungal and viral diseases.

To destroy harmful insects overwintering on the soil under raspberries and on their shoots, the following drugs are used:

Actellik - 2 ml diluted in 2 liters of water;
Inta-vir - 1 tablet per 10 liters of water;
Fufanon - 10 ml per 10 liters of water.

Shelter for the winter

Many varieties of raspberries do not tolerate snowless, frosty winters well, so after the leaves fall, the raspberry shoots are untied from the trellis and bent to the ground, covered with spruce branches or spandbond.

It is important to bend raspberry shoots to the ground, and not tie them in a bunch to stakes, then most of the buds will be under the snow and will not freeze

Caring for remontant raspberries

Remontant raspberries begin to bloom in early August, and the berry ripening period extends until the end of September. Some varieties of remontant raspberries bear fruit until frost and the first snow.

Watering and fertilizing

In August you need to monitor soil moisture. In dry and hot weather, raspberries must be watered, soaking the earthen ball by 20–30 cm. To retain moisture in the soil longer, mulch the plantings with hay, straw, peat or compost. In rainy weather, watering is not carried out.

You can feed raspberries during the flowering and fruiting period with an infusion of cow manure or chicken droppings, and in September and October they are fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, using the same dosage as for regular raspberries. You can replace store-bought fertilizers with wood ash by sprinkling a glass of ash under a bush.

During fruiting of remontant raspberries, you need to ensure that the soil under the bushes is moist.

Trimming

If the raspberry branches were left in the winter and they bloomed in the summer, then immediately after picking the berries, these shoots should be cut out to give more light and nutrition to the young shoots. Summer branches will bloom in August and will bear fruit throughout the fall, so they are cut after the last berries have been collected or after severe frosts. However, you can leave a few shoots in the spring without pruning, then next year they will bloom in June and give an early harvest.

Remontant raspberries are pruned late in the fall, leaving virtually no stumps.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Usually, remontant raspberries are completely cut off in the fall, so there is no need to spray the bushes.

Shelter for the winter

Before covering raspberries for the winter, remove all weeds, branches, debris, and fallen leaves from under the bushes. If the bush is completely pruned, then mulch the growth point with straw, hay or compost, making a layer of mulch from 10 to 20 cm.

If some of the branches of remontant raspberries are left for next year, then it is advisable to bend them to the ground and secure them so that the buds do not freeze.

Video - how to prepare raspberries for winter

Preparing raspberries for winter includes 4 stages: fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, pruning old and diseased shoots, treating against diseases and pests, and sheltering for the winter.

Raspberries are a traditional berry crop for our gardens. It is not difficult to grow, and the harvest is stable, tasty and healthy. However, in August, raspberries need special care - remove excess shoots, thin out and rejuvenate the bushes, feed and, if necessary, update the area for raspberries. Then next season the grateful berry will delight you with a generous vitamin harvest.

Pruning raspberries in August

The biological peculiarity of raspberries is such that its root system is perennial, and the above-ground part is biennial.

Young one-year shoots of the current year will produce berries for the next season, and biennial shoots that bear fruit should be cut out immediately after harvesting.
This operation is carried out on ordinary non-repairing raspberries, because remontant varieties bear fruit on both biennial and annual shoots.
You can easily distinguish old shoots from young ones - the bark on them is dark, flaky, and there are side shoots from which we collected delicious berries.
A biennial shoot that bears fruit should be cut out as early as possible, immediately after harvesting, and not in late autumn or spring, so that its spreading wide crown does not shade the young shoots.
Dense rows are also poorly ventilated, which favors the spread of diseases and pests, and annual shoots do not receive enough sunlight and nutrition.

How to trim raspberries

If your raspberries are tied, then first untie the branches from the trellis wire or stakes and use pruning shears to cut the shoots at soil level.
You need to cut out an old two-year-old shoot as close to the ground as possible, without leaving a stump, so that neither infection nor pests can penetrate there.
At the same time, we remove small underdeveloped and weak diseased shoots.
You can also cut off the top of the current year's shoots, pinching it slightly for better branching.
This pinching will speed up and improve the ripening of young shoots.

Raspberry rationing in August

When cutting and removing fruit-bearing shoots, they immediately perform “normalization” - the removal of young green shoots of the current year.

The weakest (late-appearing), twisted and thickening immature green shoots are cut out.
When normalizing for fruiting for the next year, no more than 10 pieces of well-ripened shoots with a thickness of at least 1 cm are left per 1 linear meter.
So for bending down in winter we will have 6-8 shoots in 1 bush.

Fighting raspberry diseases in August

Raspberries are damaged by about 60 different fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. The most harmful and dangerous are spotting And raspberry beetle.

All raspberry bushes older than 5-7 years, especially those damaged by disease, should be uprooted and replaced with new plantings.
In autumn, shoots severely damaged by disease should be destroyed along with fallen leaves, i.e. After trimming and standardizing the bushes, burn all the remains.
In addition, do not forget to change the site, since the soil is depleted, infection accumulates in the raspberry tree, and the plants begin to get sick and are severely affected by pests.
Therefore, it is recommended to cultivate raspberries in one place continuously for no more than 8-9 years.

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It's no secret that autumn is a busy time for gardeners. And everyone’s favorite aromatic berry adds to their worries. At the end of the summer season, every gardener thinks about how to care for raspberries in the fall so that there is a good harvest. In this article we will look step by step at what raspberries require care and how to prune them in the fall. How to feed raspberries in the fall after pruning?

Work in the garden must be done in stages . The first stage of work should be carried out immediately after harvest, and the second - closer to winter. After harvesting, pruning and shaping of bushes, soil preparation and fertilizing are carried out, as well as, if necessary, treatment against pests. The second stage includes tying and covering, if necessary.

Pruning raspberry branches:

Many summer residents, when preparing raspberry bushes for winter, limit themselves to fertilizing and bending down the branches, but proper autumn pruning of raspberries is no less important. When and how to do it correctly? And in general, why is it needed:

firstly, to prevent the fruits from becoming smaller, only 7-9 shoots are left so that the plant has enough light, moisture and nutrition;
secondly, the ovaries are formed on one- or two-year-old stems, so the bushes should be regularly rejuvenated;
thirdly, this will minimize the likelihood of disease or pest infestation next season, since most of the fungi and insects are concentrated in the upper part of the branches.

If we answered the question why, then the question of how to prune raspberries in the fall remains open. Let's consider the possible options.

1.Plain

Suitable for varieties with weak vegetation, stimulates the development of biennial shoots. It consists of shortening the stems by 2/3 of their length, and removing weak, thin or dry lashes completely.

Many people recommend completely removing two-year-old stems that bear fruit this summer, especially if the plant is not formed as a bush, but is grown as individual vines. Uncircumcised two-year-olds will produce ovaries, but in small quantities, and the fruits will be quite small.

To renew bushes with weak vegetation and poor harvests, they are cut off at the root and then covered with mulch. In this case, all pathogens are completely removed and the growth of young strong branches is stimulated.

However, you cannot completely cut off the aerial part of black-fruited varieties, for example, Cumberland, otherwise you may be completely left without a harvest.

2.Double

More suitable for remontant varieties, for example, Polka (Polka), since the plants must have great growth vigor. It consists of double pruning of growth points - in spring and autumn. In this case, more young branches are formed that will bloom next year. This technique can only be used in the southern regions. Otherwise, after the second cutting of the tops, the side branches will not have time to grow, and the yield will be lower.

3. Trimming for shortening

It involves cutting off the top of the shoot. It is suitable for tall stems that are not prone to branching, as well as for accelerating the ripening of annuals.

If the question “How to prune raspberries in the fall?” we answered the question “When?” Not yet. It is better to perform pruning immediately after harvesting. If remontant raspberries are pruned in September, after the second wave of the harvest, then regular raspberries can be pruned at the end of summer.

Fertilizing and soil preparation

Caring for raspberries in the fall certainly includes preparing the soil for winter. First you need to clean the surface of the bed. If mulch is used, it should be removed and burned to avoid the proliferation and spread of pests. And scatter the ash containing potassium under the bushes. Be sure to get rid of weeds. Clear the ground of fallen leaves in which various insects hibernate. It is advisable not to dig it up under the bushes, but to loosen it deeply. This is due to the fact that the root system is located close to the surface, and when digging deeply, it can be inadvertently damaged.

After pruning, you need to make sure that the plant stores more nutrients. This is necessary so that the bushes develop better next season. In addition, for many varieties it is important that the stems become woody, and this will also be facilitated by proper feeding. Therefore, caring for raspberries in the fall should include fertilizing. Then a new question arises: how to feed raspberries in the fall after pruning?

She loves loose soils rich in organic matter. Therefore, you can start fertilizing it by adding chicken manure or cow manure. It is important to remember that if rotted manure can simply be spread under the bushes, then chicken manure should be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:50 and left for at least two days, otherwise it will cause burns to the roots.

Watering with herbal infusions, for example, nettle or dandelion, also has a beneficial effect, the main thing is not to do it later than mid-September.

You can fertilize with urea prepared according to the following scheme: for 1 hundred square meters, dissolve 50 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

To increase plant immunity, you can take 3 g of zinc sulfate and 5 g of manganese sulfate per 1 m2.

If the lower leaves on the shoots turn red, this indicates a lack of phosphorus and potassium. And they, by the way, help the plant survive the winter. In this case, raspberries should be fed with superphosphate or monopotassium phosphate in the amount of 40 g per plant. Bulk fertilizers are applied into furrows made at a distance of 30 cm from the stems, or in the middle of the row, and then watered.

It is better not to apply nitrogen compounds before winter, since excessively active growth at this time will have a bad effect on the wintering of the vines.

Fertilizing can be done after harvesting, or after flowering again, if we are talking about remontant varieties. But you should not do this after mid-October.

In the fall, you can think about replanting bushes or adjusting rows, although this can only be done by summer residents from the southern regions. Some tips for planting raspberries correctly:

she prefers sunny places, protected from wind and drafts;
planting can be done when the leaves begin to fall and a white basal bud appears;
plants are planted in rows according to the scheme: 70 cm from each other and 1.5-2 m between rows;
It is recommended to add humus and a small amount of ash into the planting hole;
if you plan to form bushes, then it is recommended to plant two plants in the planting hole at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other;
when planting, the replacement bud should be several centimeters below the surface of the earth;
when planting bushes in trenches, you can create a trellis; for this, poles are installed along the row with plants and wire is attached to them at a height of 1 m, and branches are tied to the wire at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
when planting, you need to make sure that all the roots are facing down;
planting material in the fall can be annual young shoots, cuttings prepared after leaf fall, and varietal material from the nursery;
raspberries do not like proximity to potatoes, strawberries and tomatoes;
You can check the quality of planting by tugging on the bush; if it does not pull out, then everything was done correctly.

Autumn watering of raspberries

Very often gardeners are interested in the question: should caring for raspberries in the fall include watering? And if so, how often and to what extent?

The answer to this question directly depends on weather conditions. If the weather is dry, it is recommended to pour 1 bucket of water per 1 m2 of plantation once every 2 days. Firstly, this will protect the plant from prematurely dropping foliage, which is necessary for storing nutrients. And secondly, it will prevent the roots from freezing in the event of unexpected frosts. Watering should be stopped when night frosts begin.

Protection from diseases and pests

The plantation can be treated against fungi with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
To combat moss and lichens, the ground around the bush is treated with a pale solution of copper sulfate.
Raspberries can be treated against insects with solutions of Fufanon, Actellik or Intavir immediately after harvesting.
Fufanon is prepared in the proportion of 10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water, this amount is enough to treat 8 bushes. 1 ampoule of Actellik insecticide is diluted in 2 liters of water, and 1.5 liters of the prepared solution is used per 10 m2 of plantation. Intavir is produced in tablets; before use, 1 tablet is dissolved in a bucket of water and all bushes are treated.

Sheltering raspberries for the winter

1. In what cases do raspberries need to be covered?

Firstly, if heat-loving varieties are planted on the site. And even if the varieties are frost-resistant, winter winds and drafts can be destructive for them.

Secondly, if there is little snow in the region in winter.

Thirdly, if there is a high probability of early frosts.

2. Technology and timing of covering

Before you start covering the bushes, they need to be tied up and bent down. And even if there is no danger of freezing, gartering the raspberries is necessary so that the plant does not break due to strong winds and the weight of snow. There are several ways to bend stems.

To begin with, the bush is collected into a bunch, and then tilted and secured with staples, sticking them into the ground.
Wooden stakes are stuck along the edges of the row, and two wires are pulled between them at a height of 20 cm and 50 cm from the ground. Next, each lash separately, or small bundles of them, is bent in an arc and attached to a stretched string. First, at a height of 50 cm, and after some time, when the branches get used to the position, they are lowered to a height of 20 cm.
Small bunches of lashes are bent in an arc and attached to the bottom of neighboring bushes. This is the least expensive method and the simplest, but is suitable if the risk of freezing the plant is low.
Vertical garter method. A support peg is placed in the center of the bush and a raspberry bush is tied to it, which is wrapped on top with agrofibre.

It is important to remember that the upper part of the bent bushes should be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the surface of the ground, depending on the region. In addition, gartering must be done before frost sets in. Otherwise, the water in the stems will freeze and there is a high risk of breaking them when tying them up.

Many summer residents are wondering how to cover raspberries for the winter? The best protector from winter frosts is snow.

To cover plants use:

spruce branches, which, in addition to protecting against frost, also repels mice;
various non-woven materials, they can be selected depending on the severity of frost;
earth or humus - suitable for low-growing varieties with thin flexible vines.

Where to plant raspberries?

For good growth and development of raspberries, loamy or sandy soil is needed. The soil should be moderately moist and have a subsoil that allows moisture to pass through well. If you plant a raspberry bush on clay or light soil, the plant may die. To prevent this from happening, such soils are improved with organic fertilizers. Raspberries do not tolerate damp places. Long stagnation of water and close proximity of groundwater can lead to the death of roots and death of the bush. Elevated places are also not suitable. Here the raspberries will freeze in the winter, and in the summer the soil will dry out quickly.

There should be no rhizomes of perennial grasses on the land plot.

How to plant raspberries?

Now let's talk about how to plant raspberries. It is better to do this in the fall. The first step is to prepare the area: weed, remove weeds, destroy pests. This is especially true for cockchafer larvae. The land is generously fertilized 1.5 months before the planned planting. For 1 sq.m they contribute:

10-30 kg of manure;
60-80 g superphosphate;
40-50 g of potassium sulfate.

If the soil is peaty, add sand; if it is sandy or heavy clay, increase the amount of manure. If you plant raspberries in the spring, then mix fertilizers with the top layer of soil from the hole a few weeks before planting. Then the roots are covered with this mixture. If planting raspberries in the spring is not planned and the seedlings need to be planted urgently, then take a different fertilizer composition for 1 hole:

10 kg of compost or humus;
50 g of potassium sulfate;
400 g wood ash;
100 g granulated superphosphate.

Fertilizers are mixed with the top layer of soil from the planting hole and the raspberry roots are immediately covered.

Note! Manure has been replaced with humus; fresh manure cannot be placed on the roots, there will be burns!

The place for raspberries should be well lit and protect the plant from strong winds. There should be no fruit trees in the vicinity of the bush. You should not plant raspberries next to potatoes, strawberries, or tomatoes. It will be good if you plant raspberries in place of gooseberries or currants.

Planting raspberries step by step:

First, they dig a hole with a depth and a diameter of 40-50 cm. 2 raspberry seedlings are planted in one hole.
Half of the pit is filled with organic and mineral fertilizers mixed with the top layer of soil.
During planting, the roots of the seedling should be spread out and carefully covered with loosened soil, filling the entire space.
Compact the soil well.
After this, the raspberries are watered generously. One plant should require at least a bucket of water.
Trim planted bushes.

If you plan to plant several bushes, then it makes more sense to dig a trench.

There should be an interval of 70 cm between the pits, and approximately 1.5 meters between the rows.

When to plant raspberries?

Autumn is the most favorable period to plant raspberries. It is better to carry out this work at the end of September or beginning of October. Before the first frost, the seedlings will take root well. You can plant raspberries in the spring. Just wait until the soil thaws. When planting in autumn, mandatory hilling is necessary. This will help protect the lower buds from damage. Newly planted raspberry bushes grow for 15-20 years. However, they produce fruits up to 13 years. After this period, the rhizomes of the bushes begin to age and do not produce a harvest. At the first signs of aging, the bushes are uprooted.

How to care for raspberries?

Watering

Raspberries are a moisture-loving plant. For its productive development it is necessary to ensure adequate watering. During the season, raspberries are watered 7 times, 2-3 buckets per linear meter of row:

at the end of May, when replacement shoots appear;
twice in June, if there is no rain;
twice in July;
the last time in early August (also in the absence of rain);
if autumn is dry, then at the end of October (this time 1 bucket).

You should not water raspberries later than August 10; excess moisture will not allow the wood of the stems to form well and will lead to the disease purple spot. The two most effective methods of irrigation are sprinkling and furrow irrigation. Sprinkling is the use of a hose. To irrigate the furrows, water is released along the furrows along the rows of plantings at a distance of 40 cm. The furrows are dug to a depth of 10-12 cm. After the soil is moistened, the furrows are filled in and the ground is loosened.

Top dressing

Nutrients are no less important for the plant. Every year, add about six kilograms of compost or humus to the ground per square meter. It is better to do this before wintering, using it as mulch. And also apply mineral fertilizers in the spring:

20 grams of ammonium nitrate;
15 grams of potassium salt;
30 grams of superphosphate.

Dilute the water in a bucket and feed the raspberries after watering.

Loosening

Loosening of the soil is required to allow the roots to “breathe”. In spring, you need to loosen the soil early, before there are any root shoots. If they are damaged, it will take time to recover, and new shoots will not have time to ripen by winter. Between the rows, the soil should be loosened by 10-12 cm. In the rows themselves, 6-8 cm will be enough. Do not forget to loosen the soil in the summer and destroy weeds growing nearby. If a hard crust has formed on the ground, the soil should be treated immediately.

Spring pruning

In the first year, in early spring, the shoots are shortened by 15-20 cm to well-developed buds. This is necessary for better development of side branches and increased yield. In addition, after this procedure, the raspberry stems will be more stable and will not “fall over” under the weight of the berries.

Garter

To ensure even raspberry plantings, you need to tighten the wire. This is usually done in two rows. To tie raspberries, use galvanized wire. Its thickness must be at least 5 mm. One and a half meter posts are installed along the rows. A wire is pulled between them at a height of one meter. Raspberry shoots are tied to it. A year later the design is modified. Add two rows of wire. The lower one is at a height of 30 cm, the upper one is up to 1.5 meters.

Fruiting

New, not yet lignified, raspberry shoots produce berries in the second year after planting. The first year is a period of intensive growth and the emergence of fruit buds on the shoots. The second year is fruiting. After harvesting, the shoots dry out. They are cut off with pruning shears and burned.

If the raspberry stem begins to dry out even when the berries are ripe, it must be removed, creating favorable conditions for the formation of new shoots.

The raspberry harvest can be harvested as early as June-July. A distinctive feature is that the berries do not ripen at the same time on the same bush. This process lasts for a month, so the berries are removed depending on ripening. The harvest must be harvested as the raspberries turn red, excluding overripening, because then the berries quickly choke and lose juice and vitamins.

When to prune raspberries

In order for the raspberry bush to be beautiful, neat and bear fruit well, it is pruned every spring. One bush should have no more than seven developed shoots. Excess, old and weak new shoots are cut out, and the main ones are tied to a wire with twine. New seedlings with well-developed buds and roots are shortened to 40 cm.

If fungal diseases appear on the raspberries, dry buds and bushes are cut off and burned.

If you follow all the rules for planting raspberries, the harvest will be within a year from planting. But most of the berries will be collected in the third year. After 10-13 years, the raspberry bushes are replaced, adhering to all stages of planting.

Autumn pruning of raspberries

Dense raspberry bushes do not produce a good harvest. The same cannot be said about neatly trimmed single bushes. Being in dense greenery, the berries ripen much worse. Raspberries grow quickly and without the formation of bushes, even plantings will become overgrown in 1-2 years. Therefore, it is important to know when to prune raspberries and how to do it. The raspberry shoot has a development cycle lasting two years. In the first year, buds are formed, on which berries ripen in the second year. After this, the stem dries up.

By autumn, many such fruiting shoots are formed. Therefore, autumn pruning of raspberries is carried out in the fall; the outdated stems are completely removed with pruning shears and burned. Of course, you can postpone this work until the spring, but this is only as a last resort, since timely pruning of raspberries before winter allows the bush not to waste nutrients on old, no longer needed stems, but to give them to young replacement shoots.

Important! Shoots of biennial stems must be pruned, provided that the raspberry variety is ordinary and not remontant.

Remontant raspberries should be handled differently. You will learn this from the article about caring for remontant varieties of raspberries. When pruning raspberries, adhere to the following rules:

Remove fruited two-year-old shoots.
Damaged, dried out, broken and weak shoots of this year are completely cut out.
In the case of very overgrown bushes, they should be thinned out. About seven healthy and strong shoots are left.
To avoid infection by dangerous pests, cut branches are burned immediately after pruning.
Having completed the pruning procedure, the bushes are dug up and the weeds are destroyed.
It would be good to treat the remaining stems with iron sulfate.
Don’t forget to feed raspberries with fertilizers.

The shoots are cut flush to the ground; new replacement shoots will definitely appear.

Opinions differ regarding the timing of pruning raspberries. Some gardeners prefer to do this immediately after harvest, others before frost. It’s better not to wait until late autumn, but to start pruning right away, protecting the plant from pests and diseases.

When pruning raspberries, there should be harmony between new and old branches. This is done so that the raspberry tree does not become too overgrown. With free space between the bushes, the raspberries will be well ventilated and receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. This makes the berries turn red faster and have a good taste. When new growth appears between the bushes, it is dug up and transplanted to a new place. If there is no need for it, it is immediately removed.

Preparing raspberries for winter

The best time to prepare raspberries for winter is late September-early October. In any case, this must be done before the thermometer drops to zero degrees. Preparing raspberries for winter includes digging and loosening the soil. Also, the bushes should be bent if there is a risk of raspberries freezing in winter.

Between rows, the soil is dug up to 15 cm between rows. In rows you can dig not so deep, about 10 cm. It is important to do this carefully and carefully so as not to cut off the skeletal roots. This task can be accomplished using a pitchfork. By mulching the soil with fallen leaves, peat, straw manure, and rotted straw, you can achieve a good harvest, and in the spring the soil will be easier to cultivate.

Mulch is applied in a layer of 6-8 centimeters. When weeds sprout, they are removed immediately. You can mulch the soil in any area, especially dry ones, to retain additional moisture.

Before wintering raspberries, carefully remove all leaves from the bush.

Carefully! You can damage your kidneys!

Remove old leaves from bottom to top of the shoot. If you leave the leaves, they will become damp, rot and “burn” the buds, so you should take time to remove them. The cleaned bush is bent to the ground and secured with wire. It is very important to lower the raspberries as low as possible so that they do not freeze while remaining under the snow cover.

This is not all preparation for wintering. Raspberries need to be monitored throughout the winter. If necessary, add snow to keep the bush covered. At the same time, the snow crust is removed for better air circulation. Raspberry bushes covered with snow are protected from frost and hares; the latter love to raid dachas to eat.

You can further protect the plants by adding a layer of straw 20-25 cm thick. To avoid attacks by mice, it is better to take straw from a compost heap prepared in the fall. With proper care of raspberries in winter, they will survive the cold frosty months well, retaining most of the shoots. Frozen shoots are removed in the spring to avoid the development of diseases. You need to do this as early as possible, while the raspberries are still dormant.

Raspberry propagation

Raspberries propagate vegetatively using root shoots. If the bush is powerful, it is divided into parts. For planting, take the strongest shoots with a shoot 1 cm thick and good roots.

Offshoots, young shoots, appear on the raspberry bush in early spring. Their number may vary. It all depends on the care of the shrub, its variety, the area in which it grows, the application of organic fertilizers, and soil moisture. Young offspring develop well by autumn. They are dug up for planting at the end of summer.

If there is no need for young shoots, they should be disposed of. In some cases, raspberries reproduce by green shoots. But this is appropriate to do only when the variety is of particular value.

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