Plumbing installation: professional recommendations. How to bring water from a well into a house: laying communications and organizing a system for supplying water to a house from a well. Which pipe should be used to introduce water into the house?

Owners of private houses have to solve the problem of water supply for their households on their own. The construction of an autonomous source in the form of a well or well is associated with labor, time and finances. It’s good if there is a central water supply line nearby, it is most convenient to extend the pipeline network from it.

In this case, the comfort of living even in an old house is significantly increased, since the normal functioning of the sewage system, heating and other utilities will be ensured. You can supply water to a private house with your own hands, you just need to collect the necessary documents.

You can connect to the central water supply in winter

Advantages of central water supply

Connecting to a central water supply has a number of advantages compared to installing an autonomous water supply system. There is no need to purchase expensive pumping equipment; there is no need to drill, pump and maintain a well. In addition, centralized water supply is a certified type of activity, so the consumer receives:

• drinking water that meets sanitary and hygienic standards;
• normalized pressure in the pipeline network;
• water supply almost without interruption.

You can install the water supply and connect it to the central line yourself, or you can invite specialists. They will help to lay the system underground and connect it to the house. Of course, in this case you will have to pay for their work.

Without documents it will not be possible to supply water to a private house

To connect a private house to a centralized water supply, you will have to contact several authorities and obtain permits.

Without them, you won’t be able to use water, and for unauthorized connection there are huge fines and dismantling of the equipment at the expense of the owner.

It will be necessary to carry out various studies, draw up technical documentation and approve it in the relevant structures. All stages of documentation must be completed sequentially, otherwise everything will have to start all over again.

First we contact the geodetic service

You should first contact your local surveyor's office. Its workers will carry out a topographic survey of the area and draw up a situational plan of the site. All objects located on the ground are plotted on it, indicating the distance between them and the nearest utilities.

This is what geodetic survey and technical conditions look like

Surveyors will complete their work within ten days and issue an invoice for services rendered. If you have a situational plan, more than a year has passed since its preparation, you will have to order a new explication; this is another name for this document. When contacting the geodetic service, you will have to present title documents for the use of the land plot.

We obtain technical conditions for connecting to the water supply system

To obtain specifications for water connection, the owner of a private house can contact the authority that issued permission to construct the facility. There they will determine which company will provide centralized water supply services to the new user. This is where you should submit documents, of which you will have to collect an impressive list. You will need the following:

• confirmation of ownership or use of the house and land;
• owner's identification card;
• seven copies of the explication;
• two copies of the building permit;
• water consumption balance prepared by designers;
• two copies of the application.

The technical conditions, which are provided to the user 14 days after submitting a package of documents without charging a fee, indicate the dates of connection to the central water supply line and the permissible load on the central water supply of the user in question. The authority that provided the technical conditions undertakes to connect a private house to the central water supply.

Now you can order a water supply project

The technical specifications have finally been received, and now the water supply project can be ordered. Without it, you cannot sign an agreement with a company providing centralized water supply services. Based on the developed technical conditions, the water supply project can be carried out by any competent organization, but in any case it must be approved by the local water supply and sewerage company.

The connection must be made in accordance with the design

The document will also need to be coordinated with electricity and gas suppliers and even with the telephone exchange due to the fact that their utilities are also connected to the house, and the water supply network should not interfere with their functioning. The project is finally approved by the architectural committee.

Should I lay the pipe myself or contact a licensed organization?

When connecting a private house to a centralized water supply, you must understand that all excavation work outside the site, according to the rules, must be carried out by an organization that has a license for this. Unfortunately, the latter take advantage of their position and charge high prices for their services. The fine for violation is noticeably less, so many people do this work themselves.

An excavator is clearly more effective than a shovel

The costs of installing a water supply system consist of payment for installers, the purchase of materials and various fees. The cheapest way to get water is to do all the work yourself and install the water supply network from pipes made of polyethylene or polypropylene.

We contact the water utility to conclude an agreement

Now you should contact the water utility to conclude an agreement on connecting the water supply. Its essence lies in the fact that the organization carries out all the necessary actions to prepare and connect the infrastructure of a private house to the central water supply, and the user pays for these services.

Contracts for work and water supply

The price is set by the local water utility department, and it consists of the fee for running the pipeline system from the house to the point of connection into the main network and the connected load of the system. The cost of materials and labor of the installation team is included in this price.

Do-it-yourself plumbing

It is possible to save significantly on installing a water supply system if you do all the installation work yourself. First of all, it is necessary to draw up a diagram indicating the location of pipes and water intake points. When developing it, there is no need to strive for the heights of engineering; the most important thing is that the diagram is easy to navigate, and that it allows you to correct errors made during installation, if any.

The diagram indicates the terrain features, the presence of rocky or sandy soil on the site, and provides for the area required for pipeline interchanges. It must be taken into account that all installation work must be carried out on a pre-leveled surface, otherwise unpleasant surprises cannot be avoided.

We build a well at the connection point

A well must be installed at the point of connection to the main water main. It is needed when it is necessary to quickly shut off the water supply for repair work, so shut-off valves are installed in it. The well can be made of red brick or constructed of concrete rings.

Well options for connecting water supply

The top of the well is covered with a lid. The latter can be made of plastic, but it must withstand the load of traffic that may pass over its surface. Of course, these worries can be avoided if a well already exists at the connection point.

The connection is made by inserting into the central highway using welding equipment. It is also possible to connect to the central pipe using a special clamp without welding. In this way, you can connect to both a steel and a plastic pipe, without turning off the water supply in the central line.

Connection methods to the central pipe

In this case, the clamp is first securely mounted on the supply pipe, and then it is drilled through the hole in the clamp. An electric drill will not work as it will flood with water! Then the tap is screwed onto the thread of the clamp in the open state, after which the valve is closed. When using a ball-type valve, you can drill after it has been installed. Of course, in this case you cannot do without a forced shower, so you need to choose the right weather and clothes.

We dig a trench of the required depth

The most labor-intensive process when connecting a private house to a central water supply is the process of digging a trench. Depending on the distance from the main highway, you can use manual labor or special equipment in the form of an excavator or other earth-moving machine. Of course, you need to understand well at what depth to install the pipe.

Map of standard freezing depths

The trench should be dug to such a depth that it is below the freezing point of the soil in the area of ​​work. Otherwise, the water frozen in the pipes will burst them, and in the spring everything will have to start all over again. On the contrary, in regions with a mild climate it is possible to lay a highway without digging a trench.

If the soil does not contain significant inclusions of stones and clay, the work is easier. You can dig several holes along the route, and destroy the earthen bridges between them using a water jet supplied from a high-pressure hose. This technique significantly reduces the cost and facilitates excavation work.

It is more convenient to dig a trench to the house with shovels

Sometimes, because the soil is too heavy, it is difficult to dig a trench of the required depth. Modern insulation materials, which are used to insulate the pipeline system, can help here. In any case, it is still necessary to go deeper into the ground, at least a hundred centimeters.

A cushion is installed at the bottom of the dug trench before laying the pipes. It is a filling of sand and crushed stone that creates a shock-absorbing pad. In addition, it allows soil water to be drained away from the pipeline, thereby preventing its icing. Now you need to decide how best to lay the pipe underground and run it under the foundation.

We pass the foundation and enter the house

Pipeline entry into a house is often carried out under the foundation. In this case, the issue of the depth of the pipe and the need for its insulation is resolved in the same way as for the entire water supply line laid outside the house.

Options for introducing pipes into the house

The pipeline can also be introduced into the house through the foundation, which will require making a hole. This element of the pipeline network should be given special attention if there is a section located shallow in the ground and, as a result, subject to a high risk of freezing. It is imperative to provide high-quality thermal insulation for this section of pipe.

The diameter of the inlet hole should be made larger than the cross-section of the water pipe by approximately fifteen centimeters. This is necessary in order to prevent destruction of the pipeline network if over time the walls of the house begin to sag.

Choosing the best pipe and laying the line to the house

The most significant element of a water supply system is the pipes. There are several options and you need to decide which pipes are best for installing the water supply and bringing it to the house. In principle, galvanized steel pipes are suitable. Products made from this material tolerate mechanical overloads well, but are susceptible to corrosion processes.

Pipe for water supply and corresponding insulation

Copper pipes can function for decades, but they are very expensive and difficult to install, so they are used quite rarely. The most widely used are inexpensive pipes made of polymer materials, easy to install and resistant to aggressive chemical environments.

After connecting the pipeline network to the house, there is no need to immediately fill up the trench. First, you should make a test run and carefully examine all butt joints. Detected faults will have to be corrected.

Some features of using water

The pressure in the line is also not always maintained at the required level. Installing a pressure pump can help here. Everyone knows that water supply shutdowns often occur for various reasons. In this case, installing a storage tank helps.

Useful equipment for owners of water from the central water supply

The last tip is to think about leak protection.

According to the law of philosophy, quantity develops into quality, that is, a large number of pipes, connections, taps, appliances and, in particular, flexible hoses in a modern home leads to a noticeable increase in the possibility of water leakage.

In the event that this happens in your absence, the costs not only for repairs, but for the water itself will not seem small to anyone! The cardinal solution is to simply turn off the central tap before leaving the house. Of course, there are other flexible and technological solutions to this issue.

Laying a pipeline for water supply is a task no less significant than selecting and connecting pumping equipment and arranging a water source. Incorrectly installed water supply in a private home can lead to pressure surges and disruption of the system.

To avoid problems, you need to carefully study all the intricacies of the work. We will help you by providing comprehensive information to study the specifics of the system design and assembly rules. The information proposed for consideration is based on regulatory requirements.

The detailed description of the diagrams, options and nuances of water supply circuit wiring that we presented for your review is supplemented with visual illustrations and video materials.

Water supply wiring can be carried out in two ways - with serial and parallel connections. depends on the number of residents, periodic or permanent stay in the house, or the intensity of use of tap water.

There is also a mixed type of wiring, in which faucets are connected to the water supply system through a manifold, and the remaining plumbing points and household appliances are connected using a series connection method.

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Self-installation of a water supply connection line ultimately not only results in savings on contractor services, but also gives confidence that all work was carried out in full accordance with the technology. Today we will tell you how to organize water supply to a private house.

Solving organizational issues

Before obtaining permission to connect to the water supply, you need to register a new consumer. This is largely in the interest of the developer - the presence of the project in the general database will help shift responsibility for damage to underground communications to those who did it.

In addition, the potential consumer is given a set of documents that constitute the technical specifications for the project. This includes an image of the pipeline route, its laying depth and distance from main landmarks, pipe material and diameter, other local conditions and notes. To receive this set, you need to write an application addressed to the head of the local water utility department or the person replacing him on this issue.

The received technical specifications are the initial data of the project; on their basis, a set of working documentation is compiled, including:

• calculation of water consumption and waste volume;
• wiring diagrams in axonometry;
• floor plans of the water supply system and arrangement of bathrooms;
• drawings and diagrams of water metering, distribution and treatment units;
• reclamation scheme and list of irrigation equipment, if available.

An example of an axonometric diagram of a house's water supply system

The consumer himself can study the requirements for the design of water supply systems and draw up a project himself, but in this case he will have to indicate as the compiler a certified specialist with SRO approval for design of this type, a copy of which must be attached to the project. The project serves as the basis for concluding an agreement between the water supplier and its consumer.

After payment, everything, as a rule, depends on the contractor. But you can also take the technical side of the issue into your hands, even going as far as plugging into the system yourself. It is important to carry out the work in strict compliance with regulatory requirements, otherwise your connection will not pass inspection.

Excavation work: digging a trench under the highway

According to the project markings, soil is being excavated in a strip of about 30 cm in diameter. Typically, the main pipe is laid along the shortest route, but 2 meters before the insertion point it turns to the municipal pipeline at a right angle. An area a meter from the main pipe is dug out with a widening of up to 50-60 cm, the pipeline itself is cleared of soil to a clearance of 250 mm on each side.

Problems arise when working on the roadway. To cross a paved road, you will need to drive in the casing without cutting the roadbed or opening the preparation embankment. You cannot do this without special equipment; a puncture under the road is a rather complex engineering task.

It is much easier to cross a dirt road with a trench, but difficulties are also possible here. The fact is that when work is carried out by water utility contractors, most of these projects are completed in one working day: the trench is dug, the pipe is cut in and laid to the service well. Then the foreman signs the work completion certificate, the pipe is covered with backfill and warning tape, and the soil is backfilled.

If you carry out the work yourself, the wait for an inspection may take several days, so you need to make a flooring over the trench for the passage of vehicles. This is not so difficult: wooden beams or cuttings of logs 80-100 cm long are laid across the route. Small excavations are made under them and a brick is placed at each support point. Across the beams, that is, in the direction of the trench, a flooring of boards 3-3.5 meters long is knocked down. Don't forget to protect the work area with warning tapes and reflective strips.

Connection to the highway

The method of branching the main pipe depends on its material. For HDPE and plastic pipes, insertion is carried out by installing a tee fitting with a side branch of 25-32 mm. It is very important that this assembly has as few threaded connections as possible, so barrel adapters are not recommended.

Metal and cast iron pipes are branched using overhead clamps for tapping. Part of the clamp with the outlet is packaged with a sealant paste; mastic for sealing car windows will prove to be the most reliable. The area where the clamp comes into contact with the pipe must be cleaned of dirt and rust and ensure good adhesion of the sealant.

A flash clamp is a good way to cut into a line of any material that is under pressure. A ball valve is immediately packed to the outlet of the clamp, then a hole is drilled. The drill can be protected from water by the cut-off top of the bottle.

Exactly the same method can be used for steel pipes on which the threaded end is pre-welded. It is important to have time to pierce the pipe with a drill, quickly pull it out and close the tap. Therefore, the drill must be powerful, and you need to drill at high speeds and with strong feed. A sufficient hole diameter is 14-18 mm, depending on the pipe passage.

Bed under the pipe, insulation

The input pipe should lie 15-25 cm below the soil freezing depth. The bottom of the trench must be prepared with a bedding that quickly allows water to pass through, for example, sand or expanded clay. The height of the bed under the pipe is about 10 cm, another 5-6 cm is poured on top. For shallow burial depths and unstable soils, it is recommended to distribute the load with a 3-4 cm layer of fine gravel or line the trench with bricks before backfilling with soil.

1 - sand bedding; 2 - water pipe; 3 - brick; 4 - soil

It often happens that the level of the trench is lower than the main pipe laid. By being deceived by the principle “if it flows there, it won’t freeze here,” you risk losing water in the winter. The fact is that pipes with constant circulation do not have time to form ice, but liquid stagnant at the same depth will instantly clog the pipe.

Therefore, the main line is laid in frozen ground only when absolutely necessary, for example, at the entrance to the house or at the insertion point. In these places, the input areas are considered vulnerable and require insulation or heating. If you do not use a composite pipe with insulation, the problem is solved by paving PSB boards or extruded polystyrene on top of a layer of sand, and wrap them around the sides of the pipe.

Do you want to provide water supply to your country house on your own? Agree that doing this work with your own hands is a completely feasible task if you know the nuances of constructing a water supply system.

We will help you understand the intricacies and basic rules - in this article we will talk about how to install a water supply system in a private house with your own hands. Where to start and how to carry out all the work correctly.

For a better understanding of the process, we have selected visual photos and plumbing diagrams. The article is also supplemented with useful video recommendations on the rules for installing water supply and tips on installing system input nodes in a country house.

Regardless of whether the water supply is installed in an existing building or installed during the construction of a new one, its design and installation must be approached very responsibly.

First of all, you need to decide on a source for water supply. You need to know that according to the standards, the water supply system must provide water to each person living in the house based on the calculation of 30-50 liters per day per person.

When arranging a bathroom and sewerage system, the calculated figure increases three times. For watering the garden and green spaces, a water consumption of at least 5 liters per square meter is assumed. meter.

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The main disadvantage of the first option is the susceptibility to corrosion. Copper pipes have many advantages, but their cost is very high.

An important point is the choice of the diameter of the parts. It is carried out based on the length of a specific pipeline section.

For lines longer than 30 m, parts with a diameter of 32 mm are selected; pipelines shorter than 10 m are assembled from elements with a cross-section of 20 mm. Medium-length lines are mounted from pipes with a diameter of 25 mm.

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It was already mentioned above that a pumping station or pressure tank can be used to provide the building with a sufficient amount of water. Using the second option is quite troublesome. As practice shows, most homeowners choose a pumping station.

The device pumps water from a well, or less often from a well. This equipment is sensitive to low temperatures, so it is placed in the basement, basement or heated technical room.

True, in this case, the noise from the operating pump may disturb residents. In some cases, the equipment is placed in a specially equipped caisson that covers.

A pumping station is a set of equipment that ensures complete pumping of water from a well or a well.

Work on connecting the pumping station is generally carried out as follows. A pipe is connected from the source to the equipment, onto which a brass fitting equipped with an adapter with a diameter of 32 mm is put on.

A tee equipped with a drain valve is connected to it. This will make it possible to turn off the water supply if necessary. A check valve is connected to the tee. The device will not allow water to return to the well.

It may be necessary to turn the line to direct the pipe to the pumping station. If this is the case, a special corner is used. All subsequent elements are connected using the so-called “American”.

First, a shut-off ball valve is connected, turning off the water supply if necessary. Then a coarse filter is installed, which will protect the device from impurities.

The pumping station can be installed in an insulated caisson above the well head, or can be installed in a house, in any heated room

After this, the pumping station is connected. There is a nuance here. The equipment involves the installation of a damper tank and. If the pump is located in the well and all other equipment is located in the house, then the pressure switch is installed on top of the pipe.

A damper tank is mounted below. After this, the dry running sensor is connected. It will not allow the pump to work without water and will protect it from damage.

The last connection element is an adapter for a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. After all the parts have been installed, it is recommended to check the quality of the work performed. To do this, start the pump and let it run for a while.

If the equipment pumps water properly, then everything is fine and work can continue. If not, you need to find the cause and eliminate it.

Do-it-yourself water supply in a private house can be done from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases are virtually the same.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called tee. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

The disadvantage of a series connection when laying out a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used simultaneously.

Collector connection

Collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle is allows for stable pressure.

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

• "Blind" lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for wiring the water supply system in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
• Circulation closed lines more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combination option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water supply circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

• pumping unit for a well or borehole,
• nipple (adapter),
• preventing reverse,
• pipeline,
• filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
• shut-off valves,
• five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pipes).

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

• for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
• for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
• in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on the technical characteristics of specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Plumbing a house from

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

• Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
• Secondly, a small section of pipe, located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room, is located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You should only take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors at.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, pressure switch and, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

• preliminary rough removal of large particles of impurities (more about),
• fine cleaning,
• water softening.

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

• Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
• A deep cleaning filter is connected;
• Next comes a tee, from which the water supply pipes in a private house are divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which the water will go to a boiler or another for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing a water supply system into a private house with your own hands, the right one will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption, the starting point is total length of each line:

• for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
• for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
• For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

• 25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
• 32 mm for 50 l,
• 38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes made of various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

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In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

• Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
• Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. The inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer corner 15 mm.
• If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
• The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

• Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
• All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
• Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
• A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.