The leaves of the climbing rose are becoming lighter. What to do if the leaves of a garden rose turn yellow. For what reasons does a rose lose leaves and buds?

The condition of the leaf apparatus is an indicator of the health of the plant. If the rose bush begins to turn yellow and shed its leaves, it is urgent to understand the reasons and eliminate them. This article explains why roses turn yellow and how to help the plants.

Reason 1. Nitrogen starvation

One of the most common causes of yellowing rose leaves is nitrogen deficiency.

Being a perennial crop, during their life roses remove a large amount of nutrients from the soil. If you do not replenish them, after a few years the bushes will begin to starve.

The following signs indicate a lack of nitrogen:

• the lower old leaves turn yellow and may fall off;
• young upper leaves become smaller, acquire a pale color with dark dots, leaf blades become narrow;
• there are few buds, the flowers are formed small, their color is paler than usual;
• growths are weak and thin.

If roses exhibit this set of symptoms, they must be fed with one of the nitrogen-containing compounds:

In addition to mineral and organomineral fertilizing, the lack of nitrogen can be compensated for by adding organic matter - manure humus, mullein or chicken manure infusion. But it must be remembered that nitrogen overfeeding is no less dangerous for roses than starvation. You need to feed the bushes with nitrogen only at the beginning of the growing season, when shoots are actively growing.

Tip #1. When leaves turn yellow, mineral complexes are more effective as an emergency aid. Organic fertilizers affect the condition of the bush a little slower.

Reason 2. Potassium starvation

A different pattern of yellowing is observed with a lack of potassium. First the leaf plate in

generally retains green color. The edges begin to turn yellow, gradually drying out. This pattern is called a “marginal burn.”

Over time, the leaf turns yellow and dries out completely. Young leaves of roses experiencing potassium starvation may turn red and then turn black. The deficiency of this element can be compensated by applying special fertilizers - potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate. This is done by watering with a solution prepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. To avoid this situation, it is useful to spray roses with potassium humate throughout the growing season. This needs to be done every 2 weeks.

Reason 3. Deficiency of magnesium, manganese and iron

Sometimes yellowing of rose leaves is caused by a deficiency of microelements - magnesium, iron and manganese. In each case, yellowness manifests itself differently on the leaf blades:

Element	Signs of shortage	Treatment
Magnesium	pale yellow in the center of the leaf blade, with preserved edge color; reddish areas of necrosis appear between the veins; leaves fall prematurely.	correction of soil acidity (deoxidation with ash or dolomite flour); adding magnesium sulfate to the soil with irrigation water (25 g per 10 l of water); next spring - adding Pokon Rose fertilizer to the soil (1.5 measuring spoons per 1 m2)
Iron	continuous yellowing of young leaf blades, starting from the edges; preservation of narrow green areas along the veins; gradual progression of chlorosis with transition to veins, leaf death.	slight acidification of the soil with peat or pine needles; fertilizing with Fertika Universal-2 fertilizer (50 g per 1 m2); next spring – adding “Pokon Rose” fertilizer to the soil (1.5 measuring spoons per 1 m2)
Manganese	chlorosis between the veins of old leaves, spreading in the form of a “tongue” from the edge of the leaf to the center; preservation of narrow green areas along the veins.	foliar feeding with manganese sulfate (2 g per 1 liter of water); next spring - fertilizing with Fertika Universal-2 fertilizer (50 g per 1 m2).

Tip #2. If roses are regularly fertilized, but still show signs of mineral deficiency, it is necessary to optimize the acidity of the soil. Values ​​too low or highpH may be the reason why plant roots are not able to absorb soil solution properly.

Reason 4. Violation of the irrigation regime

Often the cause of yellowing of roses is the mistakes made by flower growers when irrigation. Roses are harmed by both drought and excessive soil moisture.

If there is a lack of moisture in roses, the tips of the leaf blades turn yellow and dry out, the tips of the shoots and buds droop, and the leaves curl. Solve this problem easy: just water the bush well and mulch the tree trunk to avoid moisture evaporation and the formation of a crust on the soil surface.

If there is too much water, roses may show yellowing, reminiscent of signs of nitrogen deficiency - chlorosis and wilting of the lower leaves. If waterlogging is caused by prolonged and heavy rainfall, it is almost impossible to get rid of unpleasant symptoms. The only thing that can be done is to add sandy mulch and thin out the lower tier of shoots as much as possible to avoid fungal infections. If the roses are flooded due to the fault of the grower himself, you need to dry the soil by temporarily stopping watering.

Reason 5. Infectious diseases

Some diseases of roses also manifest themselves as yellowing of leaves:

Disease	Character of yellowing	Treatment
Black spot	First, black spots appear on the leaves, around which yellowing occurs. Gradually the leaf turns yellow completely.	Trimming diseased leaves, treating with Bordeaux mixture, Ridomil Gold or Oxyx.
Sphacoeloma (purple spot)	Purple spots appear on the leaves, which gradually lighten and become gray. The leaf blade turns yellow and dies.	Trimming diseased leaves. Treatment with Topsin-M or Oxyx.
Bacterial root cancer	Continuous yellowing, wilting and shedding of leaf plates, deformation of shoots.	Digging up a plant. In case of minor damage, diseased roots are cut off and treated with “Fitolavin” (20 ml per 10 liters of water). In case of severe damage, the plant is burned.
Rotten	General yellowing of leaf blades, appearance of spots and necrosis, covering of buds with a gray coating.	Pruning diseased shoots. Treatment with Oxyx, Topsin-M, watering with Trichodermin.

To prevent yellowing of roses due to diseases, it is necessary to carry out regular preventive treatments with fungicides and form bushes by pruning.

Reason 6. Pest damage

Damage by sucking pests is also a common cause of yellowness on leaves (Read also article ⇒). In this case, first the leaf blades may become covered with pale dots - traces of punctures by the insects' mouthparts.

Most often, roses are affected by the following pests:

• spider mite;
• thrips;
• greenhouse whitefly;
• rose leafhopper.

When the bush is massively infested by pests and the conductive system is damaged, the rose plants are suppressed, the leaves wither, turn yellow, and fall off. The solution to the yellowing problem in this case is to kill the insects.

Reason 7. Lack of sunlight

Roses are light-demanding plants (Read also article ⇒). You need to select a site for planting them in such a way that the bushes receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. If insolation is insufficient, the lower tier of rose leaves will turn yellow.

Correcting this condition depends on the reason why the roses lack light:

• Poorly chosen landing site. Treatment is to transplant the bush to a suitable place.
• Bush thickening. Treatment is pruning of thickening shoots.
• Cold cloudy weather. Treatment: crown thinning, treatment with Epin-Extra.

To increase insolation of the lower part of the rose bush, you can lay mulch of light pebbles or stones in the tree trunk circle. They reflect sunlight well, directing it to the leaves, and accumulate heat during the day, which they release to the plant at night.

Preventing yellowing of rose leaves

To prevent yellowing of rose leaves, you need to take preventive measures:

• organize the correct nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizing, not forgetting about microelements;
• organize proper irrigation, avoiding drying out or waterlogging of the soil;
• prevent fungal diseases;
• promptly destroy insect pests;
• choose the right areas for planting roses, taking into account the acidity of the soil and lighting;
• carefully form the bushes, avoiding their thickening.

In addition, it is important to plant roses according to the recommended schemes and not to plant the plants too densely. Different types of roses must be placed at a strictly defined minimum interval: miniature and polyanthus - after 30 cm, floribundas - after 50 cm, park, standard, groundcover - after 1.5 m, climbing - after 2.5 m.

Current questions about yellowing of rose leaves

Question No. 1. How to deal with yellowing leaves of roses in a greenhouse?

The reasons for yellowing of roses in greenhouses and conservatories are the same as for outdoor plants. A control plan must be developed by first finding out why this condition arose. Sometimes in greenhouses yellow spots on roses can appear due to sunburn. In this case, it is necessary to take care of shading - for example, using a special mesh.

Question No. 2. Are the treatments for yellowing leaves different in different types of roses?

No, they are not different. The fight against yellowing depends on its cause, and not on the type of rose.

Question No. 3. What to do if your indoor rose turns yellow?

First, establish the cause. Indoor roses most often turn yellow due to lack of light or nutrition. It is better to keep them on racks equipped with phytolamps, since the illumination of window sills is usually insufficient, especially in autumn and winter. The duration of daylight should be at least 16 hours.

It is also important to regulate watering. The need for watering is determined by soil moisture at a depth of 2 cm. This can be easily done using a wooden skewer. If it remains dry and clean after immersion in the ground, the rose needs to be watered.

Question No. 4. Is there any point in leaving yellowed leaves on a rose?

Yellowing of leaves is an irreversible process. It occurs due to the destruction of chlorophyll. At the same time, metabolites accumulate in the leaf tissues, which lead to its death. Once a leaf turns yellow, it will no longer turn green, so there is no point in leaving it on the bush. And if the yellowing was caused by a disease, it can even be dangerous - the infection will spread further throughout the plant. Based on this, yellow leaves from the bush need to be removed.

Question No. 5. Can a rose turn yellow due to a sudden change in weather from warm to cold?

Modern varieties and hybrids of roses usually show high resistance to unfavorable climatic factors. However, a sharp cold snap can indeed cause yellowing of the leaves. Therefore, in extreme summers with unstable weather, it is advisable to keep non-woven covering material on hand. If the weather forecast promises sharp temperature fluctuations, you can wrap the bushes in it for a while.

Yellowing and falling leaves are a natural reaction of roses to lower temperatures and shorter daylight hours in the fall. But the appearance of yellow leaves on a bush in summer or spring is uncharacteristic for these flowers and requires the gardener’s attention. Not only spots and stripes, uniform changes in leaf color can also be a symptom of pathological processes.

There is no single treatment for yellowing of rose leaves, since various reasons cause this reaction. Most often the problem occurs as a result of:

• inappropriate care;
• malnutrition;
• exposure to pathogens;
• pest activity on rose bushes.

Environmental conditions

Often the appearance of yellow leaves is caused by unfavorable conditions:

On a note!

Watering rose bushes with tap water can also cause yellowing of the foliage due to the chlorine contained in the water. For irrigation, it is advisable to use rain, settled water.

• Drought. In addition to yellowing, with a lack of watering, the edges and tips of rose leaves curl. The yellow color gives way to brown, the leaf dries out. Also characteristic is the cessation of shoot growth and the falling of flowers.
• Sudden temperature changes. In this case, the leaves quickly change color and fall off, and the bush immediately loses a significant part of its foliage.

Nutritional deficiency

Yellow leaves may indicate a lack of certain nutrients in the rose's diet:

1. Nitrogen. In this case, the leaf turns pale, and then acquires an even yellow color. Symptoms first appear on the lower leaves, and gradually the entire bush takes on an “autumn” appearance. In the spring, when there is a nitrogen deficiency, deviations in the color of young shoots may be observed - the sprouts become brown-yellow or pale orange, whereas normally they should have a dark purple color. The leaves on such shoots turn yellow-green instead of red.
2. Potassium. Old leaves are affected, with the tips changing color first; later the yellowness “creeps” from the edges to the center, but does not affect the veins. The edges of the leaf blade become brownish-violet in color and dry out.
3. Calcium. Light yellow spots appear on the leaves, and the edges curl downwards. Young foliage grows small and the tops of the shoots dry out.
4. Iron. Characterized by shredding and yellowing, curling of young leaves. Large chlorotic spots appear on older leaves.
5. Manganese. Formation of stripes and yellow spots on the lower leaves. At the same time, the veins and small areas of tissue around them retain their green color. Yellowing begins at the edges of the leaf blade.

Rose diseases

Some fungi, bacteria and viruses can cause yellowing and falling leaves on rose bushes:

1. Black spot. The disease is caused by a fungus; symptoms usually appear in the second half of summer. First, brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves and stems of roses, then the leaves turn yellow, curl and fall off. The bush may lose most of its foliage. Shoots stop growing and flowering does not occur.
2. Jaundice. A bacterial disease in which yellowing of the leaves begins with the veins, gradually spreading throughout the rest of the leaf. Leaves may curl or lift up.
3. Rhea mosaic virus. Specks and spots of a yellow-green hue appear on the lower leaves, and after a short period of time, massive leaf fall occurs.
4. Tomato bronzing virus. Yellowing is preceded by the appearance of light spots and lightening of the veins in young leaves. After this, the leaves acquire a yellow color, become deformed, and necrosis develops on them. The flowers have a non-standard shape and spots may appear on the petals.

Important!

Rose diseases are often accompanied by a lack of potassium. Black spotting often appears on bushes suffering from lack of light and waterlogging; bacteria and viruses, as a rule, appear together with the pests that are their carriers. Therefore, treatment must be comprehensive, taking into account all factors.

Pest exposure

Yellowness of the leaves accompanies attacks by insects such as:

1. Spider mite. The appearance of the symptom is preceded by the formation of many white spots on the leaves, which over time turn into discolored spots. Mites are located on the back side of leaves; due to their small size, it is difficult to distinguish them with the naked eye. With a large lesion, the leaves appear dusty on the back side, a thin cobweb appears on the plant, and the shoots die.
2. Aphid. Often appears shortly before roses bloom. Small (up to 2 mm in length) insects appear on young leaves and shoots, which can be green, red, black, or white. There are also winged varieties of aphids. The leaves become thinner, curl and turn yellow, and patches of sticky plaque appear on the plant. The tops of the shoots curl, the buds become deformed and fall off without opening.
3. Rosen scale insect. Appears on roses less often than aphids or spider mites. The pest can be detected by red and yellow spots on the leaves, drops of sticky coating on the plant that turns black over time, and stunted shoot growth. Gradually, the leaves turn yellow and curl, and white growths form on their back side and shoots, which are scale insects covered with waxy shells.
4. Root-knot nematode. Externally, nematode damage manifests itself in weakening of bushes, poor flowering, and the appearance of small, deformed flowers. The leaves turn yellow, then turn brown and curl. If you dig up a diseased plant, you may find swellings and nodules on the roots. These formations are caused by the proliferation of root tissues, into the thickness of which the pest has penetrated.

Resuscitation of roses after exposure to adverse conditions

If the roses have turned yellow due to poor conditions, the first step is to eliminate the impact of a negative factor. Bushes damaged due to lack of moisture should be watered with warm water; if the soil becomes waterlogged, stop irrigation for a week or take care of a removable waterproof canopy to protect from precipitation. In case of significant fluctuations in daily temperatures, it is necessary to provide shelter for the bushes at night. If the reaction of roses is associated with a lack of light, only transplanting to another location will help.

“Resuscitation” measures will help eliminate the consequences of stress suffered by plants:

1. Water the bushes with Zircon (1 ampoule per bucket). You can add an ampoule of Cytovit to the solution or dissolve 1 g of Kornevin. You need to pour 1.5-2 liters of product under the bush; immediately before the procedure, you should water the plant with clean water.
2. After 3 days, it is recommended to treat the bush with Epin (8-10 drops per 1 liter).
3. 14 days after watering with Zircon, it is necessary to feed with potassium humate.

Advice from experienced gardeners!

If yellowing of the bushes is accompanied by severe inhibition of shoot growth, the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of succinic acid (tablet per liter of water) or the drug “NV-101” (drop per liter of water). It is recommended to alternate these products with a solution of vitamin B2 (200 ml ampoule of water), spraying once a week.

If the roots are damaged (in case of stagnation of water or prolonged drying out of the soil), you need to give the plants an unscheduled fertilizing with phosphorus - this will help the rose grow new roots faster. In other cases, it is enough to feed weakened plants with potassium to increase immunity. A foliar application method is recommended for rapid absorption of nutrition - in this case, dilute 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate per bucket of water. You can combine both elements in one feeding using potassium monophosphate (10 g per 10 liters).

Providing basic conditions for growing roses will help prevent yellowing of leaves:

1. Planting in well-lit areas. The bush should be in direct sunlight for at least 5-6 hours a day.
2. Ensuring the removal of moisture from the soil. When grown in low-lying areas, the bushes need to be “raised” above the ground line, that is, planted on an artificial embankment created from soil. In heavy soils, sand should be added to loosen before planting.
3. Optimal watering regime. Rose bushes need to be watered once a week, giving each one 10 liters of water. If regular maintenance is not possible, mulching the tree trunk circle with peat or freshly cut grass will help retain moisture. In hot summers, irrigation is carried out 2 times every 7 days. The water should be warm.

Replenishing nutritional deficiencies

If a nutrient deficiency is detected, you need to give the roses unscheduled feeding. If fertilizing with microelements (iron, calcium, manganese) is required, spray the bushes with nutrient solutions. Potassium and nitrogen must be added both through the leaves and into the soil.

1. Nitrogen. Root feeding with urea (15 g per bucket - volume for watering 2 bushes) or ammonium nitrate (17 g per 10 l). For foliar feeding, only urea can be used; in this case, 5 g of the substance is dissolved in 10 liters. Plants experience the greatest need for nitrogen in the spring.
2. Potassium. Foliar feeding with potassium sulfate (10 g per bucket of water) or potassium nitrate (7 g) is desirable; potassium magnesium should be added to the root.
3. Calcium. Give calcium nitrate (15 g per 10 liters).
4. Manganese. Spraying with manganese sulfate (5-10 g per bucket).
5. Iron. For feeding, solutions of Micro-Fe, Ferrilene, and Ferovit preparations are used according to the instructions.

Prevention consists of carrying out all the required fertilizing during the season and monitoring the condition of the plant. There are additional factors that influence the absorption of nutrients by plants:

1. Light and sandy soils are poor in nitrogen. In cold weather and with a deficiency of potassium, plants absorb the element from the soil less well.
2. Heavy and peaty soils are poor in potassium. The sensitivity of plants to the substance is reduced due to the high content of calcium and magnesium in the soil.
3. Calcium is most often found in low quantities in acidic and peaty soils.
4. A deficiency of iron and manganese is most often observed in bushes growing on alkaline soils.

Council of agronomists!

Sometimes the soil becomes alkalized as a result of excessive doses of lime or dolomite flour added to reduce its acidity. The popular method of acidifying the soil is to dig a small hole near the roots of the bush, into which you should pour about 2.5 liters of mullein solution.

Treatment and prevention of diseases

One of the worst options is if the yellowing of the leaves is caused by a disease. This symptom is characteristic of serious diseases, some of which (viral) do not have effective treatment regimens.

Black spot

Shoots and leaves of roses damaged by the fungus must be trimmed, and then the bushes must be sprayed. To treat black spot, fungicides “Skor”, “Ridomil Gold”, “Strobi”, “Falcon”, “Profit”, “Oxychom” are used.

Among folk remedies, treatment with a solution of copper sulfate (1%) or Bordeaux mixture (1%), sulfur solution (0.3%), green infusion, and horsetail decoction is effective. They also use dusting of bushes with wood ash.

1. Avoid excess nitrogen supply. Provide plants with sufficient doses of phosphorus and potassium.
2. Take care to bring the soil acidity to normal - the disease more often affects roses growing in acidic soils.
3. Avoid dense planting of bushes, regularly clear the flowerbed or flower garden of weeds.
4. Carry out preventive spraying of bushes with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture twice a year - before the juices begin to flow in the spring and before wintering.
5. During the season, treat the bushes several times with the biofungicide “Fitosporin” (also ensures the prevention of bacterial infections).
6. Plant lavender or sage near rose bushes.

Rose jaundice

When symptoms of the disease appear, it is necessary to remove damaged shoots and leaves, as well as treatment with antibacterial drugs - Fitosporin, Fitoflavin, Sporobacterin. These are biological agents that are safe for rose bushes and neighboring plantings. Yellowing that spreads to the entire bush is a signal that the plant should be destroyed. Affected roses, as well as leaves removed during pruning, must be burned.

Prevention of jaundice:

1. Control of insects that carry bacteria. Jaundice is spread by leafhoppers and psyllids.
2. Disinfection of garden tools with alcohol or a solution of potassium permanganate (100 g of potassium permanganate per bucket of water).

Tomato bronzing mosaic virus

Treatment and prevention of these viruses are the same. In the initial stage of the disease, pruning of affected leaves and shoots is recommended. The cut areas should be disinfected with charcoal powder or a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the disease continues to progress, it is necessary to dig up and burn the diseased bush to stop the pathogen from spreading to other plants. There are no effective drugs for the treatment of viral diseases in plants.

Prevention of viruses in roses:

1. Fight against any sucking pests of roses - these insects are the main carriers of viruses. Rhea mosaic virus is most often transmitted by thrips.
2. Periodic use of special preparations to strengthen the plant’s immunity. For example, "Epin-extra".
3. Disinfection of garden tools.

Healthy!

To prevent the tomato bronzing virus, one should add maintaining the maximum possible distance between planting roses and other crops vulnerable to it - primarily tomatoes and tobacco.

Resistant varieties

There are a large number of varieties of roses that are distinguished by strong immunity against pathogenic microflora. Choosing them relieves the gardener of a large layer of worries associated with prevention and treatment. Some of them:

The most important thing in the fight against any pest is to identify the lesion at an early stage, which increases the chances of a successful treatment outcome. Therefore, it is advised to regularly inspect rose bushes and take immediate action if insects are found.

Spider mite

When treating rose bushes against mites, it should be taken into account that the bulk of pests are hidden on the back of the leaves.

Acaricides suitable for spraying roses include Neoron, Actellik, Antiklesch, Vertimek, Borneo. The soil in the flower garden is treated with iodine-containing agents, for example, “Farmayod” or “Povidone-iodine”.

Folk remedies:

• Soap solution. In 5 liters of hot water you need to dissolve 1/2 bar of laundry or tar soap. It is advisable not to spray, but to wipe the leaves and stems of roses with a soap solution, also removing mites mechanically.
• Garlic. The garlic cloves must be thoroughly crushed so that they release the juice, and poured at the rate of 200 g per liter (usually a small volume of the product is prepared, since the tincture is used as a concentrate). The garlic is infused for 5 days, then filtered and diluted with 60 ml (4 tablespoons) of the product in a bucket of water. To dilute the garlic infusion, water can be mixed with dill infusion (50/50), this increases the effectiveness of the product. To prepare the infusion, pour 500 g of dill leaves into 5 liters of boiling water and leave for 3 hours.

Planting garlic, if you can install this crop in a flower garden, will significantly reduce the risk of plants being damaged by almost any pests.

• Onion. To combat mites, use onion peels, 30 g of which should be poured into 5 liters of warm water. Leave for 5 hours, then filter.
• Marigold. Dried flowers of the plant need to be poured into a bucket and filled with warm water so that the raw materials are below the water level. Leave for 2 days, then filter and use for treating bushes and watering the soil.

The bushes are treated with folk remedies 3 times with breaks of 5-7 days.

Prevention of spider mites:

1. Sufficient irrigation. The mite does not like humidity, so it often attacks plants suffering from lack of watering. In this case, sprinkling irrigation is useful.
2. Planting pest-repellent crops in the flower garden. From ornamental plants - chrysanthemum, calendula. But you can supplement the composition in the flowerbed with basil or dill.
3. Proper nutrition. Sufficient phosphorus content in the soil prevents the appearance of mites. Conversely, excess nitrogen provokes the pest.

Aphid

A great effect can be achieved in killing aphids by dousing the plants with a stream of water. Insects that fall to the ground, as a rule, are not able to return to the bush and die.

For treatments, the most effective insecticides are “Kinmiks”, “Decis Profi”, “Biotlin”, “Aktara”. But chemicals destroy the aroma of flowers and make plant petals unsuitable for culinary and cosmetic purposes. It will be more gentle to use bioinsecticides - “Fitoverm”, “Akarin”, “Aktofit”. In both cases, 3 treatments of bushes are carried out with intervals of 7 days.

Folk remedies are also effective if you apply them several times per season (once a week). Effective options:

1. Vinegar. In 10 liters of water you need to pour 150 ml of 9% or 450 ml of 3% vinegar. This solution should not be sprayed on young shoots and buds.
2. Infusion of tomatoes and garlic. 300 g of crushed heads of garlic (can be replaced with the same volume of onions) and 400 g of crushed tomato leaves need to be poured with 3 liters of water. After infusion for 7-8 hours and straining, pour 7 liters of water into the infusion and dissolve 1/5 of a bar of laundry soap in it.
3. Milk serum. It is used to treat delicate areas of the rose bush - young leaves and buds. The product is used without diluting with water.
4. Potato infusion. Fresh potato tops need to be chopped and poured with boiling water (1 kg of raw material per bucket of water). You need to infuse the product for 2 days, then strain and add 50 g of soap shavings.

Interesting!

The most environmentally friendly method of controlling aphids is to attract insects to the garden, the main food of which is the pest. These are ladybug, hoverfly, earwig, lacewing, ground beetle.

In addition to the usual sanitary measures, which prevent the appearance of many pests and pathogens, it is recommended to prevent aphids:

1. Destruction of anthills on the site. Insects patronize the pest because they feed on the honeydew secreted by aphids.
2. Planting plants in a flower bed with roses whose smell repels aphids. It is possible to choose decorative crops that can decorate a flower garden - lavender, nasturtium, calendula, fennel, Dalmatian chamomile, fragrant pelargonium.

Rosen scale insect

The shoots on which the pest has settled should be cut off and burned. After this, it is necessary to treat with systemic insecticides that penetrate plant tissue, since contact preparations will not harm the insect, protected by a waxy “shell.” Suitable remedies in this case would be “Aktara”, “Bankol” and drugs based on malathion (“Fufanon”, “Karbofos”).

4-5 days after the chemical treatment, the bushes should be sprayed with folk remedies. Treatments are carried out several times at intervals of 5-7 days.

Folk decoctions against scale insects:

1. From capsicum. You need to chop 0.5 kg of fresh pepper fruits, immerse them in 5 liters of boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes. After cooling and straining, the decoction is ready for use.
2. From tobacco. 2-3 kg of fresh tobacco leaves should be crushed and filled with a bucket of water. The infusion needs to be boiled for 30 minutes, then left for 2 days.
3. From celandine. 3-4 kg of chopped celandine greens should be poured into a bucket of hot water and left under the lid for 24 hours. After this, boil for half an hour and strain.

To prevent roseate scale insects:

1. You should not plant rose bushes next to other crops vulnerable to the pest - raspberries, blackberries, strawberries. When insects appear, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of all affected plants. Wild rose bushes, if they exist near the site, should be uprooted.
2. Avoid overfeeding rose bushes with nitrogen.
3. Once every six months, support plants with immune stimulants. For example, “HB-101”, “Amulet”.
4. Give roses adequate nutrition with potassium. In case of unfavorable conditions or depletion of plants, additional foliar feeding with potassium sulfate should be done.

Nematode

There are no effective methods to combat this pest. The focus needs to be on stopping the spread of nematodes. Affected bushes should be dug up and destroyed (burned), and the soil on which they grew should be poured with plenty of boiling water. After the onset of cold weather, the soil needs to be dug up with a shovel full so that the surviving pests freeze out.

Advice!

In the place where the affected roses grew, it is advisable to sow calendula or marigolds. Gladioli, phlox or peonies should not be planted in an infected area. Nematodes are safe for annual grasses.

The rose is rightly called the queen of the garden. However, potted crops rightfully occupy a place of honor in any flower garden. As befits a queen, she is capricious and demanding. She will not give away her beauty if she doesn’t like something. A common sign of dissatisfaction is yellowing of the leaves. In extreme cases, the leaves become smaller, dry out and fall off. The branches gradually die off. The risk of losing a beauty increases.

Why do rose leaves turn yellow? Common causes are lack of nutrients and improper living conditions. Sometimes roses are affected by pests and diseases. To find a specific problem, you need to study the appearance of the plant and analyze your actions.

Sources of abnormal yellowness

We exclude the natural cycle of plant development, natural aging and death of leaves. In front of us is a young bush. The causes of yellowing can be grouped into several groups.

Battery deficiency

This is the most common cause of problems. To maintain its beauty, the plant needs a balanced diet. Why do rose leaves turn red, become speckled, dry out and fall off? We will look for the answer in “feeding”.

Nitrogen deficiency

Roses experience nitrogen starvation most often. Either we planted it in initially poor soil, or we did not feed it well enough throughout the season. Perhaps they applied fertilizer in the spring, it bloomed beautifully, consumed all the nitrogen, but no one replenished the supply. The result is August leaf fall. Untimely and unwanted.

Signs of nitrogen deficiency:

1. The leaves turn pale and yellow from the middle veins. Yellowing begins from the bottom of the bush. Gradually goes up. At this time, the lower leaves fall off.

2. Young shoots turn yellow. They grow pale and lose their natural dark purple hue. The leaves on young shoots also abound in yellowish colors.

Nitrogen starvation is not difficult to eliminate.

1. Urea is suitable as an ambulance. A tablespoon of urea must be diluted in a bucket of water. Pour half a bucket under each bush. You can water directly over the leaves. After a couple of days, the positive effect will be noticeable. And in a week the rose will turn green.

2. Subsequently, it is necessary to periodically feed the beauty with complex fertilizer.

Potassium deficiency

Signs:

• marginal yellowing of the leaf;
• the leaves gradually turn brown and dry out;
• there is spotting of greenery.

1) application of ash and potash fertilizers;
2) feeding with complex fertilizers.

Iron and manganese deficiency

This usually happens when the beauty is planted in alkaline soil rich in chalk. Either a lot of lime was added when planting the bush. With a lack of iron, yellowing begins with young leaves, manganese - with old ones.

Features of deficiency of these elements:

• the leaves turn yellow between the veins and are covered with yellow spots;
• the veins remain green.

1) Spray the bush with any fertilizer containing the necessary microelements (for example, iron chelate).

2) A little acidify the soil. Make a hole on one side of the plant with a stick. Pour a quarter of a bucket of organic matter into it.

3) To strengthen the immune system, treat the bush with Epin, for example.

The plant suffers not only from a lack of nutrients, but also from an excess of fertilizers. If the leaves on roses turn white and become covered with unhealthy spots, then the reason may be “overeating.”

Waterlogging of the soil

Sometimes this happens in rainy years with garden beauties planted in low-lying clay areas. The root system of the rose is in damp soil for too long - the leaves begin to turn yellow.

How to recognize overwatering?

a) analyze the soil around the plants.

b) the leaves turn yellow from below (as if there is a lack of nitrogen), but the application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers does not help.

And now, when the plant is already suffering from waterlogging, do not water for a while and loosen the soil more often so that the moisture evaporates from it.

Diseases and pests

The leaves of the beauty may respond to the disease by yellowing. If a fungal infection occurs, the bush can be saved. In case of viral diseases, it is recommended to remove the plant from the site and destroy it. Unfortunately.

A common fungal infection is black spot.

Its signs:

• yellowing of leaves;
• the appearance of dark spots with rounded or irregular edges.

The disease depletes the bush. The affected rose tolerates wintering worse, grows and blooms poorly. Any systemic fungicide will help cope with black spot. But it’s better to take preventive measures: periodically spray the rose somewhere from mid-June.

If the leaves not only turn yellow and wither, then perhaps there is a pest in the root system. Any insecticide will help drive it out.

Roses, like many other plants, are susceptible to various diseases. The occurrence of diseases is facilitated by unfavorable living conditions, weather conditions and much more.

Even the hardiest varieties of roses are prone to disease. Infectious lesions include fungal, bacterial and viral diseases.

The most common fungal disease found on roses. Fungi penetrate a healthy plant, germinate and form a mycelium. Viruses spread mainly through diseased planting material or contaminated garden tools. Bacteria penetrate through the stomata of leaves and wounds of plants, as a result of which the plant withers, tissue rotting and staining begin.

To prevent the treatment of the disease, it is necessary to treat the plants and the soil around them in the spring, when the rose's buds have not yet begun to develop. Newly purchased rose bushes should be soaked in a solution of systemic fungicides before planting. The correct choice of planting location, proper care of roses, timely pest control, and properly selected complex fertilizers will help reduce the risk of rose diseases.

What to do if the leaves on a rose turn yellow

First of all, it is necessary to carefully examine the plant for pests and infectious diseases. If none are found, then the yellowing is caused by a lack of batteries. This could be chlorosis - insufficient production of chlorophyll. Chlorosis is caused by a deficiency of certain nutrients and impaired photosynthesis in the plant. If the plant lacks nitrogen, the leaves turn pale green. With potassium deficiency, roses also experience yellowing and spotting of the leaves. Yellowness between the veins on the leaves indicates iron deficiency. To prevent and treat chlorosis, the plant must be sprayed and watered with an anti-chlorosis agent – ​​iron chelate. To begin with, spray every 4-5 days, then at intervals of 10 days.

Another reason why rose leaves turn yellow is excess fertilizer. Therefore, it is necessary to apply fertilizers in a timely manner and be sure to observe the doses of applied fertilizers. If you do not fertilize the plant in time, it will be depleted by abundant flowering and lead to yellowing of the leaves. In this case, it is necessary to fertilize with complex fertilizers. Also, to support immunity, you should periodically spray roses with biostimulants - Epin, Zircon.

Preventive treatments and spraying should be carried out in the morning and care should be taken to ensure that the afternoon sun does not fall on the leaves of the treated plants. Otherwise it may cause burns.

The leaves of the climbing rose are turning yellow. What happened to them and how to deal with it?

Yellowing itself can be a sign of many diseases and pests.
First, evaluate the correctness of care - perhaps a deficiency of elements caused yellowing. Potassium is often lacking in roses growing in sandy and peaty soils. With a lack of potassium, rose leaves turn yellow at the edges, while the leaf veins initially remain green. Then the leaves gradually turn yellow entirely, wrinkle and acquire a reddish-purple color. If potassium starvation occurs, roses are more often affected by various diseases: chlorosis, necrosis (death of individual leaves and stems). The buds open poorly and the flowers turn pale. The development and flowering of roses is delayed. If there are no signs of a pest or infection, then it is a physiological disease caused by improper care. In this case, feed the roses with potassium fertilizer or add ash (its composition is potassium-phosphorus-lime fertilizer).
Carefully inspect the leaves and stems of roses - yellowing may be caused by infection. Black spot, or marssonina of roses, affects leaves and non-lignified shoots, less often sepals and petals. Black spotting reaches its maximum development in August, and before then it may appear as normal yellowing. Black, round, often merging spots with a diameter of 5-15 mm appear on diseased organs. The tissues around the spots turn yellow, the leaves fall off, causing the axillary buds to awaken. On the spots, the fungus forms conidial sporulation, due to which the disease spreads with drops of water. Morning and evening dew are sufficient for infection. The spread of the fungus is facilitated by high humidity, poor ventilation of the area, sudden temperature fluctuations, and splashing of water during irrigation. The fungus attacks plants at the beginning of the season, but signs of the disease appear only in July-August. With severe infection, spots appear on the vegetative buds, and then on the stems, which later die. A diseased plant may lose all its leaves. The fungus overwinters on affected shoots and fallen leaves. Collect and burn fallen diseased leaves. The appearance of black spotting is promoted by a lack of potassium, so after treatment (for example, with Multirose or Fundazol), it is necessary to fertilize. Repeat spraying as needed.
In the fall, before hilling and covering, the roses and soil should be treated with iron or copper sulfate (3%), and all affected leaves and shoots should be removed from the surface of the soil and from the bushes, and then burned.
There are a lot of pests for roses. For example, spider mites - one of the most dangerous pests of roses - damage rose leaves from the underside. Adult mites and their larvae suck the juice from the leaves, which become covered with small light spots at the injection sites, prematurely turn yellow and fall off. Female ticks overwinter under plant debris, lumps of soil and in other secluded places. In the spring, as soon as the air temperature warms up to 12-13º C, they begin to lay transparent cream-colored eggs on the underside of the leaves - they are very small, barely noticeable, located under a thin web. One female lays up to 180 eggs. Take a closer look - if there are thin cobwebs on the underside of the leaves and near the petioles, then you should fight spider mites. Wash the rose with a strong stream of water, let it dry, and then treat it with Fitoverm. It is also necessary to treat the plants around, since spider mites spread very easily. Treatment should be carried out at least 3-4 times, at intervals of a week. If many leaves are affected, then the affected branches must be trimmed before treatment.
The rose leafhopper is another widespread pest of roses. It is difficult to confuse leafhopper damage with something else: the leaves become covered with small white dots, become “marbled” and lose their decorative properties. Severe leafhopper damage leads to premature yellowing and leaf drop. In case of a massive invasion of leafhoppers, rose leaves are carefully sprayed on all sides with an insecticide (for example, Kinmiks solution - 2.5 g per 10 liters of water). In autumn, the female leafhopper lays eggs at the ends of rose shoots, so autumn pruning should be used as a preventive measure.