Garage at the dacha: we build it ourselves. We build a garage cheaply and quickly - detailed technology and recommendations The simplest garage in the country

Finally, the car needs a place so that it can be washed comfortably without poisoning the cucumbers with oil runoff, repaired or changed shoes. Garages, hangars, sheds and dedicated areas are suitable for these purposes. They all have their pros and cons. In order not to make mistakes, we will study the experience of users in the construction of various car shelters.

If you decide to equip a place for a car on your property, start with a sober assessment of your needs and capabilities. Where a dacha is a second home, you cannot do without a garage. In addition, this building is multifunctional: in the garage you can place workbenches, shelving, and an inspection pit. Only in the garage can you equip a comfortable place for car repairs - heating, light, water. But it won't be cheap either. There is no point in going to serious expenses if you come several times during the summer - it’s better to think about how to make a parking lot at your dacha with your own hands. Spoiler: according to our forum members, the best option would be a crushed stone or concrete platform, preferably with a canopy. Yes, it will not save you from thieves, but the car will not leave picturesque ruts on the site, especially in the spring.

Whatever you choose, there are general rules for organizing car parking: it should be far from open fire (oven, brazier, tandoor), located closer to the entrance and drainage ditch.

How to make a parking lot for a car at your dacha with your own hands

Let's start with the easy one - open parking. The simplest do-it-yourself dacha parking is a platform filled with crushed stone. This is what the forum tester did Mazanoff (see photo).

This elegant solution has its advantages - it saves time and money. If the area is not "wet", the water will quickly drain through the loose material, so the machine does not have to stir up the dirt. However, crushed stone has a peculiarity - on damp, soft soil it actively sinks into the ground (up to 10 cm per year), so be prepared to buy additional bedding every year. If the site is not fenced with a border, the stone will scatter throughout the site.

Philo FORUMHOUSE user

I look at my neighbor, he pours three cubes of rubble every year - and it’s like a hole in the ground.

To prevent crushed stone from sinking into the soil, you need to make a base that will distribute pressure over the entire area of ​​the designated area. To do this, the fertile layer is removed at the site - it can reach up to 60 cm, then geotextiles are laid - this material allows water to pass through, but does not allow the “pie” to sink. Crushed stone is poured on top of the geotextile - at least 10 cm. Experienced forum users advise choosing dolomite - over time it sets into a monolithic slab. The crushed stone is compacted, a layer of sand of 10 cm is laid on top and also compacted. It is necessary to pour the “pie” so that it “settles” well.

Sand is an unreliable coating. It needs to be closed, at least so as not to carry it on your feet into the house. The final coating can be different - a layer of crushed stone, concrete, asphalt, cobblestones or paving slabs, as on the forum member’s site 1984Vlad.

1984Vlad participant FORUMHOUSE

This is how the parking lot turned out, 33 sq.m. From the edge where the road is, they laid a curb flat - to organize the entrance to the parking lot, there was a small bump there.

In the photo: parking in a damp place with your own hands.

Some users insist that it is better to first put sand on the geotextile with layer-by-layer compaction, then crushed stone of fraction 20-40, and screenings on top. Forum member VasiliyB and completely abandoned sand.

VasiliyB member of FORUMHOUSE

Granite crushed stone of fraction 20-40 was spread on geotextiles in a layer of 10-12 cm, and passed through with a vibrating rammer and pouring. Next, we spread crushed stone of fraction 5-20 in a layer of 5 cm, and went through it with a vibrating rammer and pouring. The next layer is screening out fractions 0-10, a 5 cm layer, pouring, tamping.

It turned out like this:

If the soil is rich in clay and groundwater flows nearby, it is better not to skimp on geotextiles - without it, the crushed stone will sink into the damp ground in a couple of years.

When choosing geotextiles, make sure that it is intended for road work. A material similar in appearance is used for vapor barrier of roofs and other construction work. It doesn't allow water to pass through and if you mess it up, you'll end up with a "bathtub" instead of a parking space.

What to make a foundation for a truck at the dacha

If trucks will enter the car area, it is better to choose tiles 6 cm thick. Three-centimeter ones may not withstand the pressure and will crack. But it would be safer to install formwork and fill the surface with concrete, having previously reinforced it with a steel lattice (some resourceful forum users used the backs and nets of old beds for this). Since the parking lot will be higher than the ground, it makes sense to additionally reinforce the corners and edges. Large areas will also require cutting thermal joints - otherwise the concrete will crack due to temperature changes.

Maintain a slope so that dirt from the wheels and water after washing the truck do not flow onto the site, but into the drain and drainage ditch. If the site is “wet” and the groundwater is high, you will need to install a full-fledged drainage system. You can easily find how to do this in FORUMHOUSE.

Wintt member FORUMHOUSE

I decided for myself that the water should flow towards the gate and to the right (when viewed from the gate) - subsequently I will organize a discharge tray there.

As a finishing coating for a parking lot, you can also use special “honeycombs” - lawn or geogrid. The first is filled with soil in which the lawn grows, and the second with crushed stone.

Both structures are made to strengthen the surface, but only a geogrid covered with gravel can withstand heavy machines, which we can see from the user Fedotov.

Fedotov

It does not spread, does not go into the ground, does not become overgrown with grass (2 years have passed).

Entry for a car at the dacha. photo.

An important question is which crushed stone to choose for the top layer of the parking lot. The 40/70 fraction will help get rid of the effect of “crushed stone leakage” under the wheels (when front-wheel drive cars get stuck), but to work with a large fraction you will need special equipment. The best option is to choose a more convenient crushed stone of fraction 20/40, but fill it with screenings on top.

DamaZk member FORUMHOUSE

If the sand lies under the crushed stone (crushed stone is visible, not sand), then the simplest thing is to screen out the crushed stone. They filled it up, leveled it, spilled some water and that was it. The screenings set over time and hold the surface. That's how it is.

If you don’t want to pull out weeds from screenings and crushed stone, take a closer look at asphalt chips. To increase strength, some users recommend lightly pouring used oil over the crumbs (look for them in small car repair shops) - then it will become a “stone”. But do not overdo it, otherwise the surface will be soft.

To set up an open parking lot, you can use different “non-living materials” - broken bricks instead of crushed stone, broken concrete, but the result will be unpredictable - in some places the parking lot will last ten years, and in others – a year.

If the site has a significant slope, you cannot do without pouring a concrete slab. You can save on concrete if you pour a tape around the perimeter of the parking area, fill the resulting “box” with soil, and then add sand and everything else on top of it. This is what a forum member did Donsss:

An awning or canopy made of polycarbonate sheet will help to protect your car from rain and sun. Read about the nuances in this thread.

Garages

A garage is a more solid structure than a car storage area, so it requires a thorough approach - even when choosing a location. To save space and money, the garage is combined using a common wall with the house or bathhouse. Both solutions are a priori not the best: the proximity to the bathhouse is risky from the point of view of fire safety, and the entrance from the house to the garage threatens with unpleasant odors in the house (oils, gasoline fumes). If the garage is not insulated, its gate is not even a bridge, but a cold bridge through which heat will escape in winter. Ideally, the garage should be a separate building, but if you are designing it in conjunction with a house, immediately plan for insulation. Including the gate.

One way or another, the project must necessarily provide for engineering systems: water supply (for a mini-wash), drainage, ventilation, power supply, lighting, and, if necessary, an alarm system. For each of them you will find recommendations on FORUMHOUSE.

If you are designing a garage on the border of a plot, do not forget about - in some regions, for the construction of capital objects on a foundation, you need to step back from the fence 2-5 meters so as not to affect utility lines. All details are in your territorial administration.

Unogroup member FORUMHOUSE

I have industrial water running between the plots, and it seems that according to all the laws I can build 1 meter from the border of the plot, but in fact the architect gave me a limit of 3 meters.

When calculating the dimensions of your garage, look to the future. While it is not difficult to expand an open area, such a number will not work with a garage. Passenger cars, on average, are becoming longer, so it is better to immediately lay at least 5.5 m for one car. Plus 50 cm from each edge to drive in without wiping the walls. Take into account the features of the body - to open the rear door of a station wagon, you will need about 70 cm. Finally, immediately decide on which side there will be racks for tools and places for household equipment - reflect this in the project. The optimal length of a garage not combined with a workshop is 7 m.

The width of the garage is calculated according to the formula: 3 m for each car plus a meter for “comfort” - so that you can vacuum a car with the doors open, and calmly squeeze through with bags.

When calculating the opening for the gate, keep in mind that there must be at least 50 cm of wall from the gate posts to the corner, then the structure will be more reliable. Above the gate, it makes sense to lay a beam with a cross-section designed to support the weight of the gate. The height of the opening depends on the height of the machine. For a regular sedan, 2.2-2.4 m is enough, and for an SUV (middle wheels plus trunk) - at least 2.7 m.

madman_zhuk FORUMHOUSE member

Still, it’s better to make two gates: one large and one smaller, otherwise you’ll suddenly want to buy a minibus. Plus, if one breaks down, the other will be released and let in.

The width of the entrance gate should be selected based on the characteristics of the entrance. So, when entering perpendicular to the gate plane, the opening should be 0.7 m wider than the car and 1 m wider if you have to enter at an angle.

Having chosen a place for a garage and decided on its dimensions, think about the material for the walls - many design features of the building depend on this. The range here is wide, the walls can be made from the following materials: brick, slag, foam, gas, sand and expanded clay concrete blocks, as well as various variations on a metal or wooden frame - metal profiles, SIP panels, plywood, OSB boards.

Yes, forum member MBogdanov I chose brick for the façade layer of the garage, as it had to match the exterior of the house. For the second, inner layer, the owner thought to choose expanded clay concrete, which is cheaper and easier to lay. But facing brick is a material that does not require finishing. Having estimated the costs of plastering and painting work with blocks, the forum member came to the conclusion that both options were comparable in cost and decided to build the walls with two facing bricks. An excellent solution for a warm, permanent garage!

Sand concrete and expanded clay concrete blocks are cheaper than others, but they require external and internal finishing, as they have problems with geometry. Silicate, foam and gas blocks are smoother, but more expensive. The benefits should be considered after finishing.

It makes sense to have a heated garage if you constantly live outside the city. Otherwise, it is better to choose a cold (for the summer) or insulated (with the ability to quickly warm up with a heat gun) option.

DENdi

If you rarely heat, then you can use a potbelly stove - my father and I can heat up to +20 in an uninsulated garage. If it's constant, you need a heating system. At GSK, the guys doing the repairs made water heating from the same potbelly stove and filled it with antifreeze. In the morning it never gets below +10 in an uninsulated garage.

You can make a “warm” garage from any material, the only question is the insulation technology. However, aerated concrete is a priori warmer than sand block, and foam block warms up faster than cinder block. When insulating a garage, remember that most of the heat escapes through the gates and ventilation. You cannot refuse them, but you can insulate them.

Typically, experienced builders advise choosing a material for a garage that will be cheaper in your area (production and delivery features). The main thing is not to forget about the general rules of construction: the foundation must withstand the load from the walls and roof, the roof must not retain snow, the rigidity of the walls must be sufficient for wind and other loads. Everything requires an engineering calculation.

Frame technology is less reliable in terms of fire safety and protection against theft. But frames have a lot of other advantages: it’s faster to build, cheaper, and you can do it alone.

Mitrich1978

I'll share my craft. The frame is made of 50x150 boards, inside there is OSB, outside there is siding without insulation, the foundation is shallow, inside there is a 10 cm concrete slab.

You can protect a building from fire using non-combustible materials: a metal frame and profile, sheathing made of cement-bonded particle board, plasterboard or flat slate. Walls are usually insulated with polystyrene foam, mineral wool or ecowool.

If you are not going to insulate the garage, you can save money on the internal lining, although this will violate fire safety standards, and the extra ligament will not harm the frame.

Keyman FORUMHOUSE member

Insulation will prevent you from creating a steam room in the garage in the summer. I can tolerate heat worse than cold.

Alas, the burglary resistance of frame buildings is ridiculous, so leaving your car in such a garage for a long time is not worth it. But blocks will not always help in this case - the same foam concrete is sawed with an ordinary hacksaw for metal. But solid expanded clay concrete blocks are a stronger material. Especially if you line them with brick.

A frame garage made from one can be heated much faster than one made from brick or block. The panels do not need to be plastered; it is enough to cover them with clapboard. Finally, this technology implies a lightweight foundation - and this is a significant saving.

stepanstroy FORUMHOUSE member

The foundation for a garage is of great importance. It will bear the weight of not only the walls, rafters and roof, but also the car. Theoretically, all types of foundations are suitable for these purposes - pile, strip and slab, but a garage on stilts is almost exotic if the site is more or less flat and dry. A monolithic slab is the most reliable option, especially since you immediately get a floor. In a small garage space, the costs will not be much higher than for a strip foundation. But even here an accurate calculation is needed. Read about it in this section.

fogel member FORUMHOUSE

I have a garage like this, it’s still in the process of being completed. The foundation is a ribbon. I would do it now, pour the slab right away and assemble it from SIP panels, less difficulties, more results.

The basis for the garage resembles the basis for an open parking lot: a crushed stone-sand cushion and a 10-20 cm concrete screed reinforced with mesh. However, there are some nuances. So, the foundation of the garage must be insulated. Foam blind areas will protect it from freezing of the soil. It is better to make the basement of the garage from baked brick.

If the area floods in the spring or the groundwater is very close to the surface, you will need a drainage pipe system and a drainage well. Don't forget about the drain if you wash your car in the garage.

Ventilation in the garage is required. The diameter of the exhaust pipe depends on the area of ​​the room; they are installed on the roof or at the top of the wall. The inlet openings are located below - in the gate or next to it. In winter, the air flow is reduced so as not to chill the room.

Keyman FORUMHOUSE member

Two tips. Do not place lamps on the axis of the entrance; they should illuminate the area and not shine into your eyes. Use more than one lamp, placing them opposite each other, this will avoid shadows.

Unsupported spans of a garage, especially a frame one, usually leave no choice when arranging the rafter system - only. A narrow garage can be covered with wooden beams. If the length of the garage is more than 6 m, you will also need a channel. The reinforced concrete floor slab impresses with its tactical and technical characteristics, but it is not suitable for all garages, as it is too heavy. The cheapest roof is a single-pitch roof with a slight slope, but a gable roof allows you to better “spread” the snow load and equip the attic. Do not forget about the reinforcing belt, it is needed even if a Mauerlat is supposed to be used.

To bind to the construction site you will need the following equipment:

• a skein of thick nylon cord;
• tape measure of the required length;
• several pegs;
• small sledgehammer.

The simplest option for connecting to the area is to add a garage to previously erected outbuildings. The solution to the problem in this case comes down to simply extending the existing building line in accordance with the selected dimensions of the building.

The foundation of a one-story brick (cinder block) garage can be a simple strip-type rubble concrete foundation, during the preparation of which a trench dug in the ground is filled with broken stone (rubble). There are two ways to build such a foundation:

1. Pieces of stones are placed in neat rows in the trench, each of which is then filled with liquid cement-sand mortar.
2. Reinforcement is placed in the dug trench, and then it is filled with concrete.

Since the foundation must have some elevation above the ground, it will be necessary to make formwork, the height of which will correspond to the level of pouring the foundation for the garage.

The width of the trench for such a foundation usually does not exceed 60 cm, and generally it is 10–15 cm wider than the future wall. Its depth is determined by the expected depth of soil freezing in a given area.

When digging a trench, it is necessary to take into account that the soil should be sampled until dense layers of soil are reached, and also that the walls of the trench should be smooth.

This video is about preparing the base for a garage:

On the dried foundation we lay a layer of waterproofing, which is usually used as simple roofing material. If the garage door is already ready, then it needs to be installed and secured. For these purposes, you can use available material, for example, long logs, boards or anything else that is suitable in length. After the walls are erected, the spacers, which play a supporting role, can be removed.

The accuracy of installation of the garage door frame can be measured along the way using a plumb line and level. If necessary, its position can be slightly changed by placing pieces of metal plates under the corners of the structure.

Operations for laying a chain of blocks (or bricks) must be carried out according to a standard scheme, according to which the elements of each subsequent row overlap the joints of the previous one. The construction of walls should begin with the construction of corner beacons, between which a thin nylon cord is subsequently stretched. The remaining wall blocks are laid along the line of the cord, after which the beacons are again built up by several rows. We control the correct alignment of walls and corners using the same plumb line and level.

To build a garage floor, you can use a relatively inexpensive and reliable support structure made of metal I-beams with a working size of 100–120 mm. Such beams will allow you to cover the entire area of ​​the building up to 6 m wide.

After laying the beams, you can begin covering them. To do this, thick boards (40–50 mm) are laid in dense rows along the lower tee of adjacent beams, which are then covered with a layer of roofing felt. We pour insulation on top of the roofing felt (expanded clay or simple slag is usually used as insulation), and the level of the backfill should reach the cut line of the top tee.

At the next stage of work, we apply a layer of cement screed 20–30 cm thick on top of the insulation, the quality of which largely determines the reliability of the entire roof covering.

If the roof is flat, then self-waterproofing of the garage roof is done by laying several layers of waterproof rolled materials (roofing felt, aquaizol or rubemax) onto the prepared screed. In garage construction, the following techniques are most often used:

• laying rolls using the layer-by-layer fusing method;
• applying the material using bitumen mastic.

For a gable roof, the same roofing materials are used as for finishing the roof of a house. You can get acquainted with them in more detail in the article devoted to this topic.

On the front and end parts of the roof you will need to mount small canopies that serve to protect the garage walls from rainwater flows. You can make similar canopies from a 50 mm thick edged board, punched along the edge with another board. They are fastened under the upper tee of the beam.

As insulation for walls, you can use standard slabs made from foam plastic or mineral wool.

From metal profile

The first step is to make the lower part of the frame, which needs to be welded to the “mortgages” concreted in the foundation. If this moment is missed, you will have to use anchors for fastening.

The next step will be to install vertical posts on the long sides of the garage at intervals of 1.5 m. Only after this can you begin to secure the upper part of the frame.

To impart rigidity to the structure, you need to weld corners in the spans, which are installed diagonally.

Profiled sheets are used for wall cladding. The same material is used for the roof. If you wish, you can cover the roof with metal tiles.

A metal garage has a significant drawback - it is cold in winter, and heats up like a stove in summer. However, the situation is fixable. Such a room can be insulated in various ways, but it is important to remember that to work in such a room in winter, heating will be required.

In the video below, you can learn how to make your own garage door:

From foam blocks

Foam block does not have much weight, unlike brick. Therefore, there is no point in constructing a capital foundation from it under the walls. There are two options:

• Shallow foundation on a sand bed.
• Lightweight pile-strip foundation.

Moreover, if the soil at the construction site is not problematic, that is, not swampy and sandy, then there is also no point in spending money on a deep foundation. Therefore, it will be enough to deepen the foundation by 50–60 cm. A 20 cm sand cushion is poured into the trench. A reinforcement frame should also be built. This is part of the work that is carried out before the concrete is poured.

If the soil is dense and does not crumble, then there is no point in constructing formwork in the trench. It will only be needed above a ground elevation of up to 30 cm.

As for the width of the foundation, it should be 300 mm wider than the thickness of the foam blocks themselves. This gap will compensate for the pressure of frozen soil. The entire construction process is expressed in the sequential steps outlined below:

1. Marking the site for future construction.
2. Laying the foundation.
3. Installation of metal gates.
4. Waterproofing.
5. Construction of walls from foam blocks.
6. Installation of a transverse concrete lintel beam above the gates and windows, if any.
7. If the roof is pitched, then the walls are erected with a slope in one direction.
8. Organization of ventilation in the garage.
9. Making an armored belt around the entire perimeter.
10. Installing I-beams across the garage. The laying step is 800 mm, and the beam extends 200 mm beyond the walls on both sides.
11. To form the ceiling, tongue and groove boards are laid on the lower edges of the beams.
12. Laying waterproofing on a plank base.
13. Installation of roofing material.

To build a garage from foam blocks, it is recommended to use blocks with a density of 600–800 kg/m3. They belong to the category of structural and thermal insulation and are characterized by increased strength. If you purchase material with a lower density, it will be too fragile, and this is undesirable.

Typically foam blocks of this size are used: 200×300×600 mm. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the walls, you can use blocks of 200x400x600 mm. If it is necessary to increase the thickness of the walls, then lay the wide side down, its thickness is 300 or 400 mm.

Novice craftsmen usually use cement-sand mortar to lay blocks. Professionals prefer perlite. Using this material, the effect of a “warm seam” is obtained. Perlite is inexpensive, however, it prevents the formation of a cold bridge through the seams. After all, these are the places that are most vulnerable in such a building.

If you were unable to buy perlite, then purchase a dry mixture of “thermoshov”.

If you managed to make the foundation relatively level, the first row should still be laid on the mortar. This will prevent the appearance of cracks from point loads, and the block, a solution up to 2 cm thick, will “find” its place.

Another feature of working with foam block is its fragility. Therefore, even if you bought high-density blocks, lay a reinforcing metal mesh every 2-3 rows. Also, suture dressing is required. The walls will not be monolithic and strong if there is no connection with the adjacent row or at the corners.

When building a two-story garage, to lay a reinforced concrete floor panel, fill in an armored belt 200 mm thick. This will be enough to protect fragile blocks from compression, and the entire structure as a whole will provide better strength.

To build a garage from cinder blocks, it is enough to make a foundation 500 mm deep and up to 400 mm wide. The process of pouring it is the same as for a garage made of foam blocks, described above. When the concrete has dried, roofing felt must be laid, which will serve as waterproofing. As for the construction of walls, there are no special sacraments here. The principle of operation is the same as brick laying.

If desired, cinder block walls can be plastered, painted, clapboarded, insulated, etc. It all depends on financial capabilities and the characteristics of the prevailing climate in your area.

Scheme

Where do car enthusiasts hide their iron horses from bad weather? The answer to this question is simple. Of course, to the garage! It’s dry and warm there, and the tools are at hand. But how to build it yourself, with minimal investment and maximum quality, is a question that interests many car owners. This is what a frame garage is for. Its construction does not cause difficulties and does not require excessive financial costs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a frame garage

First of all, it is necessary to note the advantages of a frame garage. The main advantage is its cost. Despite the fact that this construction does not require large financial costs, good quality and durability are ensured. This is another positive point. In this house the “iron horse” will be dry, cozy, and warm. Moreover, you can make a frame garage with your own hands.

Another undoubted advantage of this structure is that its construction does not require the involvement of additional forces, i.e. specialists. You can handle the construction yourself. And the work won’t take much time.

The only disadvantage of a frame-panel structure is that its main material is wood. And it, as you know, allows both moisture and cold to pass through. Therefore, a frame house for a car needs to be well waterproofed and insulated.

Photo gallery: frame-panel garages

Finished frame garage Frame garage in the process of assembly Frame garage in the process of assembly

Drawing up a detailed project: diagram, drawing, plan

Before starting work, you need to prepare some documents. Without them, construction will be very difficult. These are plans, drawings and explanatory notes. They outline all the calculations and measurements.

By preparing the necessary sketches, you will significantly reduce the time required to build a garage. But not every car enthusiast can boast of the skills of a draftsman and artist. Therefore, in order to thoroughly prepare, you need to either contact a professional or find information in an open source.

DIY frame garage: step-by-step instructions

All work takes place in several stages. Each of them is very important for obtaining a high-quality result, so none of them should be missed.

Selecting a site for construction

This stage must be approached responsibly. Choosing the wrong garage location can lead to unpleasant consequences. To do this, you need to take into account several factors:

• when choosing a place, think carefully about the access to it with your car;
• you should not build a garage for a specific car (you need to think in advance how many cars you can fit in the built garage if you wish);
• the site must be carefully prepared: remove all debris and vegetation, level and compact the ground.

How much material is needed

After all the paperwork has been completed, you need to purchase the required materials and tools that will be needed for construction.

And the question immediately arises: which frame is better to choose? Metal or wood. Wooden ones will cost less, and they are also environmentally friendly and easy to process. Metal will be more expensive, but it is more durable. Everything here is individual, at the discretion of the owner.

In addition to the material for the frame, you should also buy a large number of beams for the walls (section 100x100, 100x50 cm). They can be made of linden, aspen or larch.

You will need concrete mortar to pour the foundation. You also need to prepare:

• hammer;
• shovel;
• level;
• gloves;
• formwork (boards for it).

These are the minimum tools to get started.

Photo gallery: metal and wooden frames for the garage

A garage frame made of a metal profile will cost more. The material for the frame must be chosen taking into account your own capabilities. A garage frame made of wood is lighter and easier to use.

Do-it-yourself foundation construction technology

The foundation in this structure must be very strong. There are 3 options to choose from:

1. Columnar (pile) is not very convenient due to the fact that lighter buildings are usually installed on it. This foundation is more suitable for building a bathhouse or gazebo.
2. A monolithic slab will be ideal for constructing a frame garage. When pouring it, do not forget about the mandatory reinforcement and installation of the floor screed. The disadvantage of this option is that the concrete hardens very slowly, which sometimes requires a whole month to wait. And you can continue further actions only when everything is completely dry.
3. Tape. This type is the most profitable. It is cheaper than a stove, and installation does not take so long.

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a strip foundation

The process occurs in several stages:

When performing the last stage of work, you must follow several rules:

• this must be done simultaneously;
• pierce it with fittings to remove excess air from the mixture, or work the solution with a vibrator specially designed for this purpose;
• cover everything with plastic;
• moisten the surface for several days in a row by pouring water on it;
• polish the plane;
• cover the foundation with roofing felt for waterproofing.

Photo gallery: the process of creating a strip foundation

Foundation construction Formwork and reinforcement The process of pouring a strip foundation with concrete

Floor installation

The area for the future floor should be covered with a thin layer of gravel. Place reinforcing mesh on top and pour concrete. When it hardens, lay down roofing material, lay down the beams and nail the flooring to them. This is how a simple wooden floor is made. But he can be different.

If the foundation was installed on piles, then the floor laying technology does not require backfilling with a layer of gravel. It is enough to simply lay wooden boards, which are then slightly strengthened.

At this stage, you need to think through and make an inspection hole and a cellar, if necessary.

Photo gallery: types of flooring

Bright garage floor made of PVC slabs Garage floor made of ceramic tiles Self-leveling floor in the garage Concrete floor in the garage can not be covered with wooden boards, but simply painted Simple concrete floor without additional finishing Wooden floor - a budget option for the garage

Construction of a frame made of metal or wood

This structure can be built on a metal or wooden frame. Let's consider both options.

Metal frame made of profile pipe

A metal frame is characterized by high strength: it is resistant to fire and mechanical damage, but is much more expensive than a wooden one. The only thing that needs to work with it is someone who knows how to use a special tool, for example, a grinder, welding, or drill. In order to make a frame garage from a pipe with your own hands, you will need rolled metal or a bent metal profile for further cladding with standard steel or profiled sheets, respectively.

The lower part of the frame is attached to the foundation with anchors and welding. You can also use self-tapping screws, but such fastening will be less reliable. Next, you should install racks in the corners. Attach the profiles to the bottom of the frame and the anchors with the corners facing outward and weld them. Then you need to assemble the upper part of the “skeleton” and connect it to the supports. And finally, weld additional vertical posts and horizontal ribs around the perimeter.

It is imperative to take care of the profile above the place where the gate will be, otherwise installing garage doors will become problematic in the future.

The choice of roof is at the discretion of the owner. It can be single-pitched, double-pitched or flat.

The garage frame can also be purchased ready-made. This is much more profitable and the installation will be faster.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden frame house for a car

A frame made of beams will cost less than a metal one. It is built using the same method: the lower part, vertical and intermediate racks, the top, etc. are built. But unlike a metal frame, there is no need to save on material here. It is better to buy quality timber.

When working with wood, it is allowed to use self-tapping screws and nails (except for the junction of the foundation and the lower part of the frame, leave anchors here.). The gaps between the racks should be from 30 to 120 centimeters.

Sheathing and insulation

Steel or profiled sheets will be useful for covering a metal frame. They are spot welded to the vertical posts, and when all the walls are closed, the joints of the sheets must be processed by welding.

The second cladding method can be used for both metal and wood structures. Self-tapping screws must be attached to the profile and screwed into the frame; be sure to secure them with washers. The sheets are laid out overlapping from top to bottom to prevent water from getting inside the garage structure.

Izoplaat slabs are perfect for exterior cladding of buildings. Another good material for exterior finishing would be OSB boards.

It is imperative to insulate a frame garage, since low temperatures can harm the car. The materials for this will include mineral wool, glass wool, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, reflective thermal insulation and other materials. They come in rolls, tiles and sprayed. Each has its own installation technology and manufacturer’s recommendations.

Photo gallery: insulation options

Glass wool is a budget option for insulation. Expanded polystyrene is characterized by fire resistance
This insulation option will keep you cool in the hot summer.

Video: how to build a garage yourself in just 132 hours

A frame garage is not only one of the cheapest methods of construction, but also the fastest. You will be able to install it yourself, and when you have gatherings with friends, tell them that you did everything from the foundation to the roof yourself. It's truly a worthwhile investment.

Whatever one may say, if you have a car, it would be wrong not to take care of its long-term stay at the dacha. A canopy is, of course, good, but it does not solve all the problems of parking a car. It’s difficult to come up with anything better than a permanent garage in this regard. This is what we will talk about in this article, in which, together with the website, we will deal with the question of how to build a garage in a country house - we will study various options, among which you can choose the one that is most suitable for you.

How to make a garage in the country photo

Garage in the country: a detached building and its features

A garage in the form of a detached small house is perhaps the most common closed option. However, the most common does not mean that it is successful. Such a garage is an excellent solution if the issue with the dimensions of the dacha is not so pressing - on a small plot it, alas, will be inappropriate. The space it occupies can be used with much greater benefit, but another solution will have to be found for it. More on this a little later, but for now let’s look at the options for such parking for a car.

You can see how to make a garage of this type in your country house with your own hands in this video.

Another important advantage of such car parking is the fact that the construction of a garage in the country can be done in any place convenient for you. One of the most common options is to a country house or. It’s up to you to decide – our job is to tell you about the existing opportunities.

Do-it-yourself garage for a dacha: features of placing a garage in a house

This is also a very common solution to the problem of parking a car - you can’t imagine a more reliable solution. Like all construction options, it has its advantages and disadvantages - not so many of the latter. The main disadvantage is that it is quite difficult to equip a garage in an already built one - as a rule, it is provided for at the design stage of a country house. In principle, if the building has a fairly voluminous basement, not cluttered with partitions, then with the right approach to the matter it is still possible to make a garage - arrange an entrance, strengthen the foundation with a channel, cut a driveway and install a gate. Technologically, this is difficult to do, but possible.

Construction of a garage at the dacha photo

The construction of a garage in a country house in a house can be done in two ways - it can be placed on the first floor of the building, or it can be lowered down to the ground floor.

1. The garage on the ground floor of the house has only one advantage - convenient entry, without any obstacles. In all other respects, it does not look very attractive: firstly, it is a space that could be used to greater advantage; secondly, there is noise in the house, which is unlikely to please anyone. Yes, such a garage is easier to build, but, alas, its construction is justified if you have a large summer cottage on which you can build a large one, in which the garage will simply get lost.
2. Garage in the country house in the basement. This is the best option, which does not take up space either in the house or in the dacha itself - in general, it does not interfere with anything or anyone. Even the construction of a country house such a garage does not complicate much.

Of course, you are free to choose how to make a garage in your country house at your own discretion, but practice points specifically to a garage in the basement. Its only drawback is that during rains and melting snow, a lot of water will flow down the ramp towards it. This issue is solved in different ways, and the methods depend on local circumstances - as an option, you can install a water limiter (it will in some way interfere with the access of the car) and cover the ramp. Another solution could be a storm drain at the bottom of the slope, draining water into the pit - technologically difficult, but possible.

Garage at the dacha photo

How to build a garage at your dacha with your own hands: underground parking

This is another successful option that does not take up space either at the dacha or in the house - moreover, it is quite possible to build this type of garage anywhere in a suburban area. Even the size of such a garage is not limited by anything except your financial capabilities. Yes, the dacha will have to be dug up quite a bit, but as a result you will get a rather cozy parking space for your car, over which you can also grow crops.

The construction of an underground garage in a country house has a lot of features. Let’s take a closer look at them by briefly studying the technology of its manufacture.

Only after this can the garage be buried. Naturally, you should also consider some kind of formwork that will prevent the soil from sliding into the garage entrance. The ideal option is to take care of this at the stage of casting the walls. In principle, some semblance of a fence can then be made, for example, from brick, or better yet, natural stone. Well, then comes the finishing - you will need to pour, concrete the entrance, install and take care of the drainage of rain and melt water. You can’t build a large canopy over the entrance to such a garage, so you’ll have to build an effective drainage system, which needs to be thought through at the stage of digging the pit. It is this point that is the disadvantage of a garage of this design.

In this article we looked at how to make a garage in the country. In conclusion, there is not much left to add. In particular, it is worth noting the fact that if such a car parking lot will be used in the winter, then it would not be superfluous to take care of insulating the garage. With modern materials, it is quite easy to carry out such work without the help of specialists.

Every car owner will agree that leaving a vehicle in the open air is extremely unsafe. Prolonged exposure to atmospheric precipitation can cause irreversible corrosion processes, and the appearance of the vehicle will deteriorate over time. Considering these facts, many car owners are thinking about building DIY garage, drawings, photos and videos can be seen in the article.

Construction of a garage is a long-term investment, so it is necessary to build a large structure, taking into account future needs. It is equally important to make the object beautiful and practical. If you think through the details in advance, the garage will fit well into the landscape and become one with the surrounding buildings.

DIY garage foundation

First of all, you need to decide on the size of the garage and the width of the door. The size will be affected by the number of machines and equipment that will be located indoors. The average size of a standard garage is 6x4 meters, and the height is 2.5-3 meters. Usually this size is enough to fit a car and tools with racks inside.

You need to start making the foundation by digging a trench for pouring it. Usually a depth of one and a half, two bayonets of a shovel is enough to spare. With such a foundation, the structure will be quite stable, and the load will be doubled.

Even before pouring, you need to buy a machine of sand and crushed stone, at least 20 bags of cement. To make formwork you will need boards. It is important to strengthen the foundation with reinforcement, which will be filled with mortar.

First of all, the area where you plan to locate the garage needs to be cleared of plants and bushes. After this, you should try to level the ground so that the surface is level and without slopes. After this, you can start making markings using pegs and strong rope. The markings are carried out taking into account the expected size of the future garage. The result should be a rectangle with equal diagonals.

It may be necessary to carry out several fittings and adjustments until the markings are perfect. This is very important, because in the future you will need to navigate it. Since the base of the garage will have a solid foundation, when marking, you need to provide additional space for placing the formwork. Usually it is enough to make the markings 15-20 centimeters wider, and the boards will be installed easily.

Foundation panels are made from boards that were purchased in advance. The boards are packed tightly together so that there are no gaps. During manufacturing, you must follow the calculations and carry out everything strictly, observing the planned dimensions. In this case, the height of the shield does not matter much. The finished structure must be installed in a dug trench and firmly fixed with iron stakes that are driven into the ground. Next, the reinforcement is laid and fastened at different height levels using tying wire. Small pieces of reinforcement can be used as jumpers.

When the formwork is erected, you can immediately proceed to the next step - pouring concrete. To save time, many garage builders use a concrete mixer, which very quickly, with minimal effort, and most importantly, mixes the ingredients together efficiently, so that the concrete turns out homogeneous and plastic. It is very important to complete the concrete work of pouring the foundation in one day, this will allow it to be completed in the form of a solid monolith. After pouring concrete, you need to compact it thoroughly so that there are no air cavities. After pouring, the concrete hardens and gains maximum strength within one month. Fresh concrete must be watered to prevent cracks from appearing. For the same purposes, you can cover it with film, which will protect it from the drying effects of the sun and wind. However, the formwork can be removed after 7-10 days.

DIY garage construction

To build walls, you will need to purchase laying blocks, sand, cement, masonry mesh, roofing felt, timber and edged boards, and steel corners. Ruberoid is necessary for the manufacture of gaskets between the foundation and blocks. Therefore, it needs to be cut into strips, the average size of which is 25 cm. The cutting is easily done with a sharp knife, which is moistened with water each time for better glide. Experienced builders recommend laying strips of roofing felt around the entire perimeter of the foundation in two layers and overlapping.

Next, the process of laying blocks or bricks begins. It is better to immediately cut large blocks into two halves with a grinder, since they are needed not only whole. If the halves are prepared, then during laying you will not have to be distracted from the process. The solution is also mixed in a concrete mixer in the following proportion, namely:

• three parts sand;
• one part cement;
• water as needed.

During one working day, you can build walls no higher than 4 rows around the perimeter. Thus, in about a week you can complete all the work. At the final stage of masonry, you need to install lintels above the gate. A metal corner is suitable for this.

Do-it-yourself garage roofing is done in the usual way. You can use a crane to lay concrete slabs, make a gable roof yourself, installing wooden rafters, on top of which a metal roof is attached. Next, the structure is sheathed with wood. The roof can be insulated using mineral wool and roofing felt.

All about building a garage with your own hands in the video:

To build a garage with your own hands, photo and video drawings will make the task easier. The most important thing is the preparation of each construction stage. If any details of the process raise questions, you should consult with a specialized specialist. However, if you try, then in a month and a half you can completely build a garage and put it into operation. Continue reading on the website