Caring for roses all year round: spring, summer, autumn. Features of watering, pruning, fertilizing roses in the garden. All about caring for roses in spring Caring for roses in May

A beautiful flower garden in the garden is the pride of the owners of the site, but the rose garden is especially charming, especially during the flowering of the queen of the kingdom of Flora. In order for roses to delight with beauty and freshness, you need to continue caring for the plantings every month, even in winter. Save this rose care calendar and then your bushes will always be strong, well-groomed and bloom profusely.

January

Rose bushes covered in autumn are sprinkled with fallen snow, the snow crust is carefully trampled down to collapse the passages of voles that eat the bark. If frosts intensify, you can additionally cover the plantings with straw mats.

February

Activities continue to inspect the rose garden and protect rose bushes from frost and rodents.

March

Although March is the beginning of spring, it is not always warm. However, daytime thaws harm carefully wrapped rose bushes, because under the warm shelter the roses begin to rot. Be sure to check the condition of the plants. If necessary, remove the additional cover from the rose bushes that was provided during the frosty winter months. Baits for killing rodents can be placed under the rose garden bushes - mice are very harmful to the bushes, especially the young growths of last year.

A prel

Sunny April days make it possible to partially remove the cover from rose plantings, but this must be done gradually:

1. Remove the top cover if this was not done in March.
2. During the daytime, carry out ventilation by opening the vents in the end parts.
3. Remove sheets of roofing felt or film.

You can open roses completely when the temperature reaches above zero, but here another danger awaits the plants - sunburn. In the first weeks after the bushes are freed from covering materials, it is worth shading the rose bushes from ultraviolet rays.

If return frosts are expected after removing the cover, you should consider covering the bushes with agrospan overnight.

In April, you can treat overwintered rose bushes against fungal diseases; this operation is carried out before the buds open, using a solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Spring pruning of roses is carried out during April. During this operation, branches that have frozen and rotted over the winter are cut out.

May

In May they begin replanting. This can only be done when the soil is thawing, in warm, dry weather.

In May, you can already start watering your rose plantings, because in the southern regions the first flowers will appear on the bushes by the end of the month. The first feeding of old plants is also carried out in May; nitrogen fertilizers and special spring fertilizers for roses are applied to the bushes.

It is useful to add 1-2 buckets of humus under the bushes. - this will help retain moisture and inhibit the growth of weeds. Overgrown weeds should be removed from the rose garden beds.

Overgrown shoots of roses can be affected by pests; at this time, aphids, caterpillars and other pests can be seen on young branches, damaging young leaves and buds. Plantings can be treated against pests using insecticides.

June

This month will give rose lovers unforgettable moments - the first wave of rose blooms begins.

In June, watering of rose plantings continues once a week; at least 1 bucket of water is poured under each plant. Water-eroded mulch should be added under rose bushes as needed.

You can apply a complete complex fertilizer - this will speed up flowering and add strength to the rose bushes.

They continue to inspect the plantings for the presence of diseases and pests in order to have time to take appropriate measures to destroy them.

Faded roses must be removed promptly, this procedure will help the development of new buds.

July

In July, the usual activities for caring for the rose garden continue: watering, mulching, fertilizing, removing faded buds.

In July, you can feed the roses again, using an infusion of mullein or bird droppings.

To obtain new rooted plants to replenish the garden collection. Early rooting of cuttings allows for the formation of a good root system by autumn that can withstand harsh winter conditions.

For a successful operation, it is very important to choose the right cuttings - non-viable cuttings are obtained from replacement shoots that grow from the lower part of the bush; using such material for propagating rose bushes will lead to failure.

August

In August, it is useful to feed pink bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, reduce, and then completely stop watering. Young shoots will not have time to ripen by autumn, so as not to weaken the bush, they can be cut out. From green shoots that are set for rooting in July, you can leave the greenhouse in place until spring; young plants are covered for the winter along with jars and other transparent containers.

September

In September, they stop watering the roses; at this time, they loosen the soil and weed the flower beds to remove weeds. If there is a temporary cold snap, rose bushes can be covered with a mixture of sand and peat.

You can start planting new rose bushes in September; the bushes will have time to get stronger before the cold weather.

October

In October, it is useful to treat rose bushes with Bordeaux mixture; you can begin pruning the bushes. Frosts on the soil can harm plants; you need to take care of temporary shelters for rose plantings.

When preparing roses for wintering, it is necessary to remove all foliage from the bushes, otherwise pockets of fungal infections may appear in the shelter.

November

They continue to build a shelter over those rose bushes that were not covered in October. If the first snow has fallen, it is raked to the bushes and trampled down tightly, this will help protect the plantings from rodents.

December

They scatter bait for rodents and place mousetraps in the territory of the rose garden. The dense crust of snow is periodically trampled down - such an operation will help to collapse the passages of mice inside the snow cover. If necessary, additional insulation of roses is carried out.

You can read about the timing of fertilizing and pests of rose bushes in the article “”.

In spring, the gardeners' chores begin - they need to tidy up the garden, take care of the orchard, and pay no less attention to flowers, especially ornamental plants. Caring for roses should begin in early spring. Remove the winter shelter, perform proper pruning, protect as best you can from diseases and harmful insects - all this is included in caring for a rose, which is considered to be a capricious flower. For careful care in the spring, the flowers will definitely thank the gardener with lush flowering and healthy foliage. Many gardeners do not risk planting roses in the garden; they are frightened by stories about the difficulty of growing them. After all, flowers not only need to be carefully cultivated, but also carefully cared for in the future. In fact, all fears about wintering and care are greatly exaggerated. Caring for roses is very simple, the most important thing is to know how to do it.

Before you start caring, you need to first plant the bushes. Of course, many gardeners have already done this, but some strive to update the rose garden every year. That is why you need to know some nuances, for example, when growing container roses, planting is done from May to August.

Root roses are grown in the garden immediately and planted in the fall. This will allow the plants to take root before the first frost, but you should carefully calculate the time:

if planted too early, the flower will sprout and then die,

if it’s too late, the roots will freeze - again, the bush will die.

Proper planting of roses

Direct landing occurs according to the following rules:

• Soil preparation. The required area is dug up, weed roots are removed, and the soil is mixed with fertilizers.
• Bushes are planted at a distance of 50 cm, while the dug holes must be spacious enough to freely accommodate the root system. When planting, be sure to remove the packaging, even that which could presumably decompose in the ground - the decomposition process can negatively affect the roots.
• Branches are pruned according to an unspoken rule: weak ones are cut off completely, strong ones - 5-8 buds are left, depending on the type of flower.
• After planting, the flowers are shed generously with water so that the soil settles to the roots.
• Loosening - the soil must be collected around the bush, and then mulched.

After planting the rose in the ground is completed, care should be appropriate.

Particular attention is paid to wrapping perennial plants for the winter, which is removed only in the spring.

Removing cover

Undoubtedly, roses require dense shelter to survive the winter season. Spring care should begin with gradual airing of the flowers. Usually shelters are very complexly designed to achieve the ideal temperature even under a layer of snow.

We begin to gradually remove the shelter in early April - as soon as the bulk of the snow melts. As soon as the sun begins to warm, then you need to start ventilating the bushes of the plant, raising the northern edge of the shelter for the day.

It is necessary to carefully monitor weather conditions and the growth of rose buds. The period of initial care is determined by the weather and temperature in April individually in each year. It is best to keep roses from decay and overheating under layers of shelter due to sun activity, which increases towards the end of April.

After a week or a little more, in this matter it is recommended to focus on the temperature; when the air warms up to at least -5, you can remove the first layer of shelter - non-woven material. After 3 days, when the thermometer shows 0, you can remove the spruce branches or other warm covering material, and only after that, when the temperature rises to +3 - +5, you need to sweep away the dry foliage. It would be better to place it nearby, carefully distributing it into piles.

You need to let the rose bushes get used to it for some time, and then remove the spud. The most important thing on the bush is the grafting site; the protective layer must be removed from it at the last moment, when the air temperature has already risen above +7.

You should not rush with cleaning and subsequent care: pruning and fertilizing can only begin a week after removing all layers of coverings. A good guide will be the plant's buds - if they swell, you should hurry up with care procedures. It is important that the process of removing the cover takes place in several stages, so the roses will adapt gradually.

Mulching

The best way to simplify rose care is mulching. This procedure allows you to reduce the time for weeding and loosening the soil; it is carried out immediately after the first fertilization of the bushes.

Mulching procedure:

• prevents moisture from evaporating;
• cools the soil in hot weather, protecting roots from burns;
• prevents the soil from becoming dense;
• retains fertilizers in the soil;
• protects against pests and diseases;
• stops the growth of weeds.

Often mulch is fine tree bark, mature compost, dust or dry grass. The soil around the bush is cleared of weeds and grass, loosened and covered with a 5-7 cm layer of mulch.

Feeding bushes

The growth of roses in open ground largely depends on the first feeding, which must be carried out immediately after spring pruning. It is very important that the bush is already developed: the buds are swollen, but have not yet blossomed.

Flowers react positively to any type of fertilizer: mixtures, complex fertilizers, nitrogen fertilizers. The recommended dosage is indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. A common mistake gardeners make is feeding roses with organic matter. Compost can be used only once every 3 years, supplementing mineral fertilizing, but not replacing it.

The classic scheme is to mix mineral fertilizer with the soil around the rose bush. Before fertilizing, the soil must be thoroughly watered several hours before digging in fertilizers, after which the bush is watered again to avoid burns to the plant. But recently, watering is gaining popularity - the fertilizer is dissolved in warm water, then the soil around the roses is treated.

Watering

Newly planted rose bushes are watered every two days, gradually reducing watering to weekly as the bush grows. Water serves as a natural conductor of minerals. In spring, roses must be watered abundantly, but carefully. Excess moisture can lead to the development of various types of diseases.

In the summer, roses are watered 2 times a month, but if the summer is dry or hot, it is necessary to water more often. Watering should be plentiful, watering should be done carefully so as not to wash out the roots.

Starting from August, in some regions from September, watering is reduced. After all, the rose is beginning to prepare for winter, and abundant watering will help increase the vegetative mass.

Before covering the roses with soil, they are watered abundantly before winter shelter. After hilling, do not water the roses. Roses will overwinter more easily in dry soil.

Pruning roses by season

Beginning gardeners know when planting flowers that roses are pruned at any time of the year, except winter.

At the same time, the goals of seasonal pruning are different:

• in the spring it is produced to renew bushes, stimulate growth and abundant summer flowering;
• in the fall - this means pruning roses for the winter and preparing them for winter: wrapping them; in summer it involves removing fallen buds.

Pruning roses in spring

Spring pruning of roses is a very important stage in care. An incorrect movement can damage an entire rose bush and cause it to die.

1. Dried leaves, damaged twigs and dead shoots are removed - they turn brown during the winter;
2. weak and diseased branches need to be pruned to ensure healthy lighting and air, in addition, this will help avoid infection of the entire bush with fungus;
3. after which an inspection is carried out, during which three sprouts with swollen buds are selected;
4. selected branches must be cut obliquely to the buds;
5. then remove the shoots that grow inwards from the rose bush;
6. a beautiful crown with a small center is formed;
7. treatment is carried out with copper sulfate (100 grams per bucket of warm water), the bush is carefully sprayed.

Roses must be covered with film even after pruning, if cold weather is possible in the future. This is not uncommon for the climate when, on the May holidays, after a series of warm days, frosts occur or even snow falls.

When pruning, you should take into account many factors that may later affect the bush:

• climate – in cool climates, less pruning occurs;
• landing spot on the sunny side;
• type and growth of the plant.

Pruning roses in autumn

Roses are pruned in autumn in mid-October. This is a very important point: under no circumstances should you start pruning before the first frost begins. Pruning gives a kind of start for the growth of buds, so if you prune the roses before possible warming, which often happens, the bush will begin to grow. Before winter, you need to be careful and immediately treat the pruning area with an antifungal drug. For example, you can use at least simple charcoal from a barbecue.

Pruning different types of roses

Growing roses often turns into a favorite hobby, so many gardeners add variety and plant several types of this royal flower at once. Each type of rose has its own pruning method, which takes into account the size of the stem.

• Tea hybrids and flowerbed bushes

First, damaged and dead stems are identified and removed by cutting to the first bud - optimally, only 3-8 stems remain. Then they are cut off at the bud level 6 from the ground. As a result of a correctly carried out procedure, the development of young shoots will be uniform.

• Standard roses

Dried and weak stems are removed in April, and the remaining ones are cut off, leaving 5 strong shoots. There should be up to 8 healthy swollen buds left on them. The branches are shortened by 1/2, the side branches by 2/3, leaving 3-5 buds. In other words, if the height is 30 cm, then cut 10 cm, if 120 cm, cut 40 cm. It is important that the weeping appearance of standard roses only needs to be thinned out.

• Shrub roses

Old bushes are cut out, leaving young stems.

• climbing roses

Climbing roses are pruned on the side shoots to 4 buds, while the main branches are not touched.

When growing roses, care and pruning must be done with special attention. When pruning, you should use gloves, this way there is less chance of damaging the bush. When pruning, you need to be especially careful, use only sharp scissors or pruners to ensure an even cut. A cut with torn edges is a big step towards infecting the entire bush.

Pest and disease control methods

Roses can become sick or be attacked by harmful insects, leading to the death of the plant. To avoid such troubles, it is recommended to carry out constant prevention and carefully monitor the growth of the plant, paying attention in case of pests. Treating roses against diseases and pests must be done in a timely manner, because even one diseased plant can infect healthy bushes and lead to the death of the entire planting.

Rose pests

A good preventive measure would be to spray the flower immediately after the start of growth, which subsequently should be done once every 2 weeks. Small pests are dangerous just during the period of swelling of the buds, when the plant is most vulnerable.

Protection of roses from pests, of course, must be timely, and you need to know from whom exactly to protect.

Small pests appear on roses such as:

• Roseate aphid - hunts in colonies; sucks the juice from the stem of the plant, it bends and dries out, and may die in winter; You can fight it only by constantly treating the bushes with special means;
• Spider mite - entangles the plant with a cobweb; also sucks out the juice, disrupting the natural metabolism in the rose, as a result the leaves fall off; also a method of struggle is to treat with drugs;
• Leafrollers - caterpillars devour leaves in the spring; insects can be collected by hand, or the bush can be treated with special solutions;
• Click beetles - eat stems and leaves; the medicine is laid out around the bushes;
• Olenka and Bronzovka - feed on flowering buds; need to be collected by hand in the early morning, when insects are motionless.

Rose diseases

Flowers get sick under unfavorable growth conditions: lack of moisture or, conversely, its excess; little food and light. Infection can be either massive or single - it is important to immediately remove the diseased plant so that the disease does not spread to healthy bushes.

Diseases of roses and their treatment are very diverse:

• Powdery mildew - appears in mid-summer in the form of a white coating on the leaves due to excess moisture in the soil; the affected stems and leaves are cut off, the soil is dug up, and the bushes are also treated with medicine, for example, copper sulfate.
• Rust - orange cushions appear on plants; treated with soapy water.
• Chlorosis - a lack of iron appears in plants, the leaves turn yellow and pale, after which they fall off; It is recommended to treat with copper sulfate dissolved in chilled water.

Rose bushes are a beautiful addition to any garden. Proper care, pruning and feeding of plants will allow them to grow for a long time, delighting the gardener with their diversity. And knowing about control methods and possible diseases that can harm roses, you can fully protect the planting, protecting it from pests.

The recognized queen of flowers, the fragrant rose, is not too difficult to grow in gardens. However, it is necessary to follow key rules for caring for it, starting with the choice of planting material.

Viable rose shoots can be obtained in several ways:

Landing

In order for garden roses to produce strong shoots, covered with healthy foliage, and bloom profusely, you need to choose the optimal location for them:

1. The place where the beautiful bush will grow should be well lit and reliably sheltered from the sharp north wind.
2. The soil will need drained, fertile, neutral, medium density - neither too light sandy nor compacted clay soils will do. The soil water level should also not be high.

A planting hole in a selected location with suitable soil is prepared as follows:

1. The soil is removed to a depth of one meter. The diameter of the pit is at least half a meter.
2. At the bottom there is a drainage layer of crushed stone, pebbles or broken ceramics.
3. Then a nutrient layer of humus and/or well-rotted manure mixed with soil is laid.
4. A layer of soil is placed on top, which will temporarily protect the developing roots of the rose from direct contact with concentrated fertilizers.
5. The root system of the seedling is placed on the soil layer. If it is in the substrate, it is preserved. Unprotected roots are cut by about a third and before planting they are kept for up to two hours in water or in a solution of a root formation stimulator.
6. Fill the planting hole with soil so that the grafting site is five centimeters below the soil level.
7. The earth is compacted and then watered well - with no less than a bucket of water. Tamping and watering create maximum contact of the root system with the soil. As a result, the growth of new roots accelerates, followed by young shoots.

Video - How to plant a rose. All stages of planting

Watering

Beautiful roses love moisture, but waterlogging does not benefit them.

In the middle zone, if the summer is not dry, it is enough to water the bushes once a week in the morning or evening. Adult roses will require a bucket of water for each plant; for growing ones, half the dose is enough. If the weather is hot, the frequency of watering is increased up to daily.

It is better to use soft water, without excess salts - well, rain, well-settled tap water. In any case, watering with cold water is unacceptable.

The watered soil is loosened to provide the root system with air.

To prevent the soil from losing moisture, its surface is mulched with crushed bark, hay, and compost.

Top dressing

Mineral and organic complexes are used to nourish roses, and they alternate depending on the season:

1. In spring, rose bushes are fed twice with complete mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, at the rate of 30 g per plant. The first feeding is carried out with the awakening of the buds and the beginning of shoot growth, the second - when the first buds form.
2. In summer, during the period of intense growing season and abundant flowering, alternate complex mineral fertilizing with organic fertilizing - a 2 kg solution - three to four times. mullein in a bucket of water. For each bush you need to add half a bucket of this fertilizer. The last feeding occurs in August and contains only potassium and phosphorus components.

Trimming

Purchased seedlings are usually grafted plants, the growth and durability of which is ensured by viable and hardy rose hips. This powerful base most often stubbornly produces its own shoots, which must be monitored and mercilessly cut out throughout the growing season.

There are three levels of trimming your own stems of varietal roses:

1. Up to four buds from the base of the shoot. It is used for spring seedlings, rejuvenation of old plants and as a last shock therapy for weakly developing bushes.
2. Up to seven buds from the base. By shortening the stems in this way, you get strong young growth and abundant flowering of the bush.
3. Affects only the ends of the stems. This method is used as a light forming agent that stimulates flowering.

In addition, pruning roses has its own seasonal specifics:

1. In the spring, after being freed from winter shelter, weak, dead, thickening shoots are removed.
2. In the summer, gentle pruning is carried out, removing faded flowers and inflorescences to the first viable bud.
3. In autumn, in the middle zone, shoots are shortened to the height of a winter shelter. In warmer climates, serious fall pruning is not done.

Graft

You can propagate roses in your own garden by grafting delicate, beautiful varieties onto strong shoots of rose hips grown from seeds.

To do this, select a dormant bud of an already faded rose, cut it off with a small piece of the stem, remove the bark and insert this scion into a T-shaped cut on the rosehip stem. The grafting site is wrapped with plastic tape, the rosehip shoots located above are completely cut off and, with patience, wait for the scion to grow together with the rootstock, usually until next autumn.

Protection from diseases

Under unfavorable weather conditions, an unsuitable growing location, or dense planting, roses are affected by various infections.

Disease	Description of the affected plant	Image	Prevention and treatment
	The leaves have dark, purple-tinged spots with a clear border. Affected foliage quickly turns yellow and dies.		Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, infusions of nettle and/or horsetail.
	The leaves are covered with whitish small grains of easily erasable plaque.		Pruning thickening shoots, spraying with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.
	Brown, brown, yellow spots on the foliage.		Spraying with a solution of copper sulfate with soap, Bordeaux mixture.
	The outer side of the leaves becomes covered with red-brown spots, and on the inner side a grayish coating forms that cannot be erased.		Avoid contact of irrigation water with leaves. Spray with infusions of horsetail, nettle, sow thistle, and ash solution. Strengthen the potassium component in root feeding.
	Zones of intensive growth - the ends of shoots and buds - are covered with gray mold. The affected areas quickly dry out and fall off.		Fertilizing with manganese, spraying with one percent Bordeaux mixture.

Pest Control

Garden roses are susceptible to attacks by specialized “rose” insects:

1. Aphids. They settle on young shoots and occupy the lower parts of leaves. You can try to get rid of these small fry using wormwood infusion or a solution of fermented nettle. Large colonies will only be destroyed by an appropriate insecticide.
2. Cicadacus. They also colonize the lower surfaces of leaves. Small whitish spots appear on the outside of the leaf blade. You can eliminate leafhoppers with a solution of laundry soap.
3. Spider mites. They readily reproduce in hot and dry conditions, entwining the lower surfaces of leaves with the finest cobwebs. Severely affected foliage is removed and the plant is sprayed with garlic or tobacco infusion. Yarrow and horsetail also help.
4. Leafworm. These insects lay eggs on the leaves so that the developing larvae wrap the leaf blade into a tight tube. Such formations must be removed and the rose sprayed with an insecticidal preparation.
5. Sawflies. The larvae settle inside the shoots. As a result, holes are formed in the stems. Affected areas must be immediately removed and destroyed. For preventive purposes, rose bushes are sprayed with wormwood infusion.

Shelter for the winter

In the middle zone, most varietal roses need winter shelter, which, on the one hand, will reliably protect against frost, and on the other, eliminate excess moisture.

The optimal covering material is specialized non-woven fabrics - lutrasil, agrotex, spunbond. Preparation for winter begins in October, with pruning of immature shoots. As the first frost approaches, the stems are bent to the ground and an arc structure is built over them or a wooden frame is installed to ensure the air gap necessary for wintering roses. It is best to put a strong plastic mesh on the frame structure, which will protect the shelter from sagging under the snow, and then, on top of the mesh, place a two-layer non-woven covering and securely secure its edges to the soil.

Overwintered roses are unpacked in March-April, after the soil has thawed to a depth of 20 cm, in cloudy weather, which prevents burns on plants weaned from sunlight.

Video - How to properly cover roses for the winter

Calendar of works in the rose garden

By season, rose care is distributed as follows:

Season	Actions
Spring	Replanting, preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture, sanitary and stimulating pruning, complex mineral fertilizing.
Summer	Watering, weeding, mineral and organic fertilizing, loosening, removal of wilted inflorescences, disease prevention, pest control.
Autumn	Loosening, weeding, preventive “Bordeaux” spraying, pre-winter pruning, hilling.
Winter	Protecting bushes from rodents, dusting shelters with snow.

Timely, complete care will ensure intensive growth and lush flowering of garden roses of the most exquisite varieties.

Caring for roses in April

In central Russia, April marks the time when winter coverings are removed from roses and the gardener’s first meeting with his favorite flowers after a long winter. And here the most important thing is not to rush with the opening, but not to be late either.

When to open roses? It depends on the weather. First of all, a stable above-zero daytime temperature must be established. At this time, the snow, which in winter was a reliable shelter for the rose from frost, ceases to help the plant. Roses wake up very early, and wet, compacted snow prevents the flow of sunlight and fresh air. In a short time, well-overwintered roses can die out. Therefore, you need to remove the remaining snow from the shelters. Already in March, if the temperature during the day is usually positive, in air-dry shelters at this time we must open the ends. If it is either warm or cold, you need to ventilate the roses, and then cover them again, leaving vents. Or, if March was cold, we do it in April. Roses are often dampened rather than frozen. And this happens precisely in the spring, when we remove shelters at the wrong time.

We remove the coverings from roses in stages to avoid temperature changes and sunburn. As soon as the weather permits (the signal for this is the thawing of the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm), remove the top layer from roses covered with layers of spandbond, leaving only the bottom one. If the roses have been hilled up, covered with sawdust or spruce branches, it is necessary to loosen the top caked layer to provide air access to the roses. Towards the end of April, if severe frosts are not expected, we remove the shelter completely; again, here you need to navigate the weather. It may be better to leave the roses covered for the May holidays. To avoid sunburn, it is better to shade roses immediately after opening. And it is better to completely remove the cover from the bushes not on a sunny day, but on a cloudy one.

Roses covered only with spruce branches, sawdust or boxes must be opened as the soil thaws.

Immediately after thawing, loosen and loosen to ensure air flow to the roots.

As a preventative measure, many rose growers treat the bushes with copper-containing preparations immediately after removing the cover.

Now you can begin cosmetic pruning of roses. First, dry, broken, frozen or damaged shoots are cut out. Very often there are frost holes (cracks) on the shoots, which appear as a result of the freezing of water that gets into cracks and scratches in the bark. If frostbites are large and located close to the grafting site, then such affected shoots should be removed into a ring.

If the roses were not ventilated on time at this time and were late in removing the coverings, then from excess moisture their shoots are very often affected by an infectious burn.

Affected shoots must be cut back to healthy tissue to avoid the spread of infection. The affected shoots that are not removed dry out and die. Removing all weak, diseased, thin and dead shoots helps ensure good air exchange and illumination of the rose bush, which in turn minimizes the risk of fungal diseases developing on the bush.

Small frost holes need to be treated - wash the crack with a brush with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or a 1% solution of copper sulfate, coat it with varnish, then you can seal it with a strip of medical plaster. Otherwise, such frost holes turn into foci of infectious infection by spores of various fungal diseases.

In those slightly affected by an infectious burn, you can not cut off the shoot, but clean the affected area with a sharp garden knife to healthy tissue, then smear it with a paste of crushed garlic cloves, and then seal the area with a strip of medical plaster.

After all these operations, you can begin pruning roses, following all the rules in accordance with the variety’s belonging to a particular group.

After pruning, you can feed the roses for the first time with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It is best to take ammonium nitrate (the ammonium form of nitrogen is absorbed faster than the nitrate form) or any other complete mineral fertilizer with a high nitrogen content (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Since the soil is still cold in early spring, before applying fertilizer it is very good to water the soil around the plants several times with hot water so that the soil warms up and the suction roots work well.

It is better to apply fertilizers in liquid form - 3-4 liters for each bush. You can sprinkle the above fertilizers in dry form under the bushes (40 g per 1 sq.m.) and then incorporate them into the soil. We also place organic matter under the bushes. In any case, before and after fertilizing, the soil must be spilled generously with water so that the fertilizers dissolve.

There is also a subtlety here. If the weather is cold in spring and the temperature does not rise above 5C, the plants stop growing, and their stems and leaves may become deformed. Feeding the plant in such conditions is pointless and even harmful. Wait for warm nights to set in (+10-15C).

We tie tall scrubs to supports, and carefully distribute climbing roses along arches and pergolas.

Caring for roses in May

At the beginning of May, if the weather did not allow us to complete all the above operations with roses, then we complete them.

We monitor the protrusion of the kidneys. If 2-3 buds appear from an internode at once, leave the central one or the strongest one and remove the rest. We loosen the top layer of soil under the bushes that has compacted over the winter.

In the middle of the month, during the period of shoot growth, we fertilize the roses with complex mineral fertilizer. It is even more effective to combine mineral fertilizing with organic fertilizing. To do this, dilute 1 part mullein in 8-10 parts water, leave for 5-8 days, and dilute it by half before use. 3-5 liters of mullein infusion are poured under the bush.

It should be remembered that mineral and organic fertilizers complement each other. At first, nutrition comes from mineral fertilizers, which are quickly absorbed (under favorable weather conditions). Organic fertilizers are absorbed by plants gradually as they decompose, and help create favorable conditions for more efficient use of mineral fertilizers.

At the end of May we do the first preventive treatment of roses and the soil under them against fungal diseases. If pests or diseases appear, diseased parts of plants should be immediately cut off and burned. In case of pest infestation, pollination or spraying should be carried out.

If the roses have not overwintered well and have not started to grow, under no circumstances should we dig them up or throw them away. They may wake up very late, not earlier than the end of May or even the beginning of June. The grafted rose still has dormant buds in reserve, but they wait a long time for a favorable opportunity.

We remove weeds regularly. It is also necessary to cut off shoots growing from the rootstock (wild ones differ from cultivated ones in the lighter color of leaves and stems, a large number of thorns and small leaves).

May is the best month for planting roses.

Caring for roses in summer

Caring for roses in June

The first roses bloom in June.

We constantly monitor their health and the appearance of pests. If after warm days there are cold damp mornings, we preventively treat the bushes a second time against fungal diseases. In the middle of the month, to strengthen the immune system, you can feed roses leaf by leaf. In the sun for two weeks we infuse mixtures of horsetail, nettle, and celandine. We strain the starter, dilute the infusion with water 1:10 and pour it over the bushes. You can repeat leaf feeding every two weeks, alternating herbs - nettle, chamomile, dandelions, calendula. It is useful to add humates to mixtures. Ash is good for preventing fungal diseases. One liter of hot water is poured into two glasses of ash, boiled for 15 minutes, infused, filtered, diluted with water and sprayed on the bushes. You can dust the bushes with ash early in the morning, and wash it off two days later.

In case of a massive pest invasion, we spray the roses with a systemic preparation. During the budding period, we carry out the third feeding: 1 tablespoon of calcium nitrate per 10 liters of water and water the bush so that the flowers are brighter and last longer. You can apply a complex fertilizer plus an infusion of mullein or an infusion of bird droppings (the droppings are poured with water 1:20, left for 3-8 days, then diluted in a ratio of 1 part solution to 3 parts water).

If the weather is dry and hot, it is better to mulch the soil under the bushes to protect it from overheating and drying out. We use tree bark, wood chips, grass clippings, and chopped plant branches as mulch. If there is little rainfall, water the roses at least once a week. If the air is very dry and there is no precipitation, we sprinkle 1-2 times a week to avoid damage by spider mites. We remove weeds from the tree trunk in a timely manner.

In the middle of the month we remove weak shoots, wild shoots, as well as blind shoots that have not formed buds. As soon as the roses bloom, we stop feeding.

In order for roses to bloom longer and look better, the flowers should be removed immediately after flowering. For repeat-blooming roses, you need to cut off the inflorescences and single flowers so that buds appear on them again.

Caring for roses in July

July is the month of abundant rose blooms. We continue to remove faded buds. The correct cut is made above the bud sitting in the axil of the first five-leaf clover, the trefoils are skipped. If the pedicels are not removed in time, seeds will begin to set, which will consume the rose’s strength to the detriment of secondary flowering and growth.

Blooming roses are not fed; this speeds up flowering.

After the first flowering and pruning of the inflorescences, we give the roses the last nitrogen and complex fertilizing. We continue to water abundantly, especially if it is dry and hot. It is useful to continue feeding the leaves of herbs in June. Shoots that have reached a height of 1 m are tied to a support to avoid breaking by the wind. We monitor the sprouts from grafting, remove the shoots if they are from the rootstock.

We closely monitor the manifestation of diseases, especially after cool rainy days. At the first symptoms of black spot or powdery mildew, we tear off the diseased leaves and treat the bushes with a fungicide.

July is the best time to root rose cuttings. The young shoot is cut off immediately after the first flowering, until the lateral buds begin to grow.

Caring for roses in August

August is the month of roses blooming again. Flowers appear both on old, already flourishing shoots, and on young, new shoots that have grown from grafting.

The young shoots that appear in the second half of summer are considered the most valuable, since they are the strongest and most powerful, and they will form the future basis of the bush. Therefore, we monitor their growth throughout the month and under no circumstances shorten them before flowering, even if they are 2 times longer than the others. The exceptions are hybrid tea roses and floribundas. If such a shoot begins to grow in the second half of the month, then it is advisable to remove it immediately so that the rose does not spend extra energy on growing it, since it will not have time to bloom and ripen before winter. For climbing multi-flowered roses and staffs, we leave all shoots without a time limit for their appearance. For Rambler roses, we cut out completely faded shoots.

We continue to fertilize with potassium and phosphorus, eliminating nitrogen completely. At the end of the month, we stop cutting off the faded inflorescences, allowing the seeds to set, this promotes the ripening of the shoots.

If the month is dry and hot, we continue to water the bushes intensively. August is the month of greatest incidence of fungal diseases. We keep preparations ready for treatment . To prevent this disgrace, foliar feeding with ash is very good. To do this, pour two glasses of ash with hot water, boil for 10-15 minutes, leave, filter. Dilute in 10 liters of water. Before spraying, you can add 1 tablet of microfertilizers.

When applying fertilizer, you should always take into account the specific conditions and condition of the soil in your area. Fertilizers need to be applied less and less frequently during dry summers. In rainy summers, when nutrients are easily washed out, feed more often, and the recommended doses can be slightly increased.

During replanting, pruning, cutting flowers, cold weather or drought, it is very useful to spray roses with the antidepressant epin (1 ampoule per 5 liters of water).

Caring for roses in autumn

Caring for roses in September

In September we begin to prepare roses for winter. We stop any feeding and processing, as well as all kinds of pruning. We direct all efforts towards ripening the shoots. We do not cut off the faded inflorescences, but only remove the petals; the set fruits contribute to the ripening of the shoots.

We immediately remove the young shoots that appear; they will not have time to ripen, but will only take away the strength of the rose. It is better to pinch older growing shoots lightly at the top to stop their growth. While the shoot is growing, all nutrients are concentrated at the point of its growth. And we need them to spread now throughout the entire shoot, then, being stronger, it will endure the winter more easily. It is also better to remove small, green buds; they will not have time to bloom before frost. We leave only large, already colored buds.

It is advisable not to cut roses into bouquets at this time. On the cut shoot, buds below the cut will immediately awaken, young shoots will appear, which will no longer ripen, but will take away the strength of the rose.

At the end of the month, starting from the bottom of the bush, we remove up to a third of the mass of foliage, bend the young shoots to the ground and fix them before they become woody. Carefully rake and burn fallen leaves.

The second half of September is the best time to transplant roses. In this case, the rose should be trimmed immediately as a cover. If you replant earlier, the rose may begin to grow; if in October, then with early frosts it will not have time to take root and will not overwinter well.

Caring for roses in October

The main thing in October is to cover the roses before frost. At the beginning of the month, we pinch off the tops of the shoots that have grown at this moment. We remove foliage and trim off unflowered buds, with the exception of large ground cover roses. We sweep the leaves from under the bushes and burn them. To prevent fungal diseases, we treat the bushes with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

Before sheltering, we cut out immature shoots from all hybrid tea roses and floribundas, and trim their ends from climbing roses and staffs. All shoots that bend are bent and fixed. Stiff varieties are either bent in several steps or cut to the height of the shelter.

We arrange arches or supports and cover the roses with lutrasil in dry weather. If its density is from 60 gr. per sq. m, then this is the final version of the shelter. During late autumn rains, we throw plastic film over thinner material so that its edges do not reach the ground, and the ends are open to avoid condensation. With the arrival of frost, we remove the film.

Winter-hardy varieties of roses can simply be covered with spruce branches, sawdust or boxes when frost sets in.